It's easy to get in trouble with a click-style torque wrench. Method used to 'pull' can vary drastically from user to user. And I've had people argue with me regarding how it's properly done.
Once, watching a guy do a BBC build, he would pull kind of fast and gave up after the first click. When I mentioned it was not 'the best way', I got the "I've always done it that way and never had a problem' comment.
I asked if I could check it, and I came slowly up to the about where the click would be and it moved without clicking. I slowly added more pull and it clicked. But it was at least another 1/8 of a turn.
Then there's the argument of wrench calibration.
I've heard people swear beam type wrenches are more accurate, and I suspect some of it may be due to the fact that your are basically forced to come up on the spec slow. Going the last 5lbs or so even slower.
Totally agree on the lube too, have to use what is specified my the bolt manufacturer.
Have to closely inspect the hardware too, ensure threads are clean, and run the nut or bolt down by hand once or twice, feel the threads so to say. I've seen ARP bolts come out of a box of main studs and one nut had zero threads.
If nothing else, it removes all doubt if something later goes wrong, making sure of every detail along the way.
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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
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1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
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