Played with it more last night, engine not running, hooked up a vacuum pump to the unloader, heat gun on the choke stove ... seems close to acceptable in the 55 degree shop. Hard to tell until I get it on the road.
This NOS carb seems pretty well adjusted from the get go, choke flap closes to the specified 3/32" gap to the horn when set, opens up about 1/3 the way when the unloader kicks in. The two fast idle steps work.
Heat gun gets the choke flap to open all the way without a dramatic amount of heat. Good since I have the driver side cross over blocked. Again I won't know for sure until the car is running in the driveway how well it's going to work.
I'm transitioning from outboard motor fuel tank sitting under the engine, to the fuel tank right now so can't run the engine at the moment.
I'm one of those guys that never minded a minute of warm up and peddle messaging before driving away. The only time it's ever needed a choke was when I moved from TN to NY. At that point I installed a Holley with a manual choke ... that was 40 years ago.
At the moment I'm confident it's not too far off base.
(Not long ago I actually bought the parts to build a micro-processor based, servo controlled choke (because I'm a tinkerer) With maybe a week of screwing around I think I could build a programmable servo that would attach to the choke coil rod and respond to a temp sensor anywhere on the engine you wanted to put it.
)