View Single Post
  #1  
Old 04-05-2022, 08:10 PM
noalibi's Avatar
noalibi noalibi is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Alexandria, LA
Posts: 45
Default Overheating!! - Troubleshooting not going well

little background, '72-400 .030, summit 2800 camshaft, 16 heads (9.75:1 CR)
running/breaking in on test stand at 2500 PM, new Champion radiator, electric fan w/ 180 degree T-stat.

fired up great, all vitals OK except for coolant temp rise to 230 within 10 minutes. initial timing at 16 BTC. removed T-stat and replaced it with gutted one and it will run about 15-20 minutes, but temp will climb to 230 fairly quick after warmup. i did remove the milodon aluminum water pump and adjusted the divider clearance to .010 to .015 clearance with no improvement. for reference, all components inside the timing cover are new- divider, sleeves, seals, etc. so i went to the sticky and copied the following and my best diagnosis as to the current conditions. any advice helpful.


;21 Reasons why your engine may run Hot.




*A lean air/Fuel Ratio (Also check fuel pump and Filter) - ELEC PUMP, NEW FILTER
*Too much timing/retarded timin/advanced curve malfunction -VARIED TIMING WITH NO SUCCESS
*Clogged Radiator/Collapsed Hose (restricted water flow) - NEW, NEW
*Clogged Engine (restricted water flow) - NEW REBUILD (CLEANED)
*Stuck Thermostat / Incorrect Thermostat - tested WITH, WITHOUT, AND GUTTED
*Bad Water Pump - NEW AND CLEARANCED
*Incorrect Water Pump Speed (too slow/too fast)- FACTORY PULLEYS

*Radiator Too Thick - SPEC'D FOR ENGINE (NEW) Champion
*Wrong Pressure Cap - 15#
*No Shroud Around Fan. Improper Fan Position Within Shroud. - ELEC FAN W/IN 1" OF RADIATOR, NO DIFF WHEN ADDING HIGH FLOW SHOP FAN
*Bad Fan Design - Stock Factory Type Usually Works Best. - NOT TESTED
*High Volume or High Pressure Oil Pump - NEW MELLING FACTORY SPEC PUMP (GOOD OIL PRESSURE)
*Electric Fan (Pullers/Pushers) Blocking Air Flow - (Puller) ADDING EXCESS AIR MADE NO DIFF
*Too Much Antifreeze - 50/50 BLEND
*Wrong Type Antifreeze - CORRECT
*Flow Test: Begin with cool engine. Remove radiator cap. Start engine. Bring engine up to operating temperature so that the thermostat opens. Increase engine speed to 2000 rpm. If water gushes out of radiator there is a flow restrictionin the system. This must be corrected for proper cooling. - NOT TESTED
*Wrong Spark Plugs (ie. Heat Range) HEAT RANGE "5" AS RECOMMENDED BY BUTLER
*Wrong Gasoline Type (Try 89 or 92 Octane) - 89 CURRENTLY
*Clogged Catalytic Converter. - NA
*Clogged Injector System. - NA
*Exhaust getting into the water due to a cracked head or blown head gasket. - SYSTEM HAS BEEN PRESSURE TESTED

Again, i am running the engine on my test stand with all necessary components connected. can supply pics if necessary.

__________________
1966 GTO convertible, 2nd owner, Dad was 1st, owned 30 years
1972 TA tribute clone current project LSX/T56