[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by alanmay0

I have no clue what the piston clearance is. These are the pistons that came with the car. I am not an expert on pistons. I have it rebuilt and the guy used the same pistons and did not mention anything to me about how good or bad they are so i am stuck with them.

Same block, honed (again) and pistons re-used. Not likely to be overheating due to tight piston-to-bore clearance.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

the total timing is set to 31 degrees per butler performance.

WITH or WITHOUT VACUUM ADVANCE? Do you HAVE a vacuum advance? Does it work? Ported, or manifold vacuum?

If your idea of "total timing" is initial + centrifugal + vacuum, and you've got 31 degrees, you're throwing away power, fuel economy, drivability, and there's no wonder you've got overheating.

If your "total timing" is initial + centrifugal, and you've got 31 degrees but there's no vacuum advance, you're throwing away power, fuel economy, driveability, and there's little wonder you've got overheating.

I bet that engine would wake right up with 10--15 degrees initial timing, ~35 degrees total (maybe more, with those pistons) and another 10--15 degrees of vacuum advance.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

As for the carb adjustments i started out about 3 turn out then used a tach to achieve the highest rpms and left it at that. The idle was set when he car was idling at about 600 rpms.

Could be worse. I find a vacuum gauge to be more sensitive than a tach. And I nearly always adjust the mixture needles just a touch "lean" at idle. Doesn't affect idle quality much, but dramatically cuts down on tailpipe emissions.

This still leaves the potential to be lean at cruise. But that's going to involve jets, metering rods, air bleeds...I'm not going there.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

don't know the amps per fan at the moment but they are rated at 280 CFM each. I have a separate relay for each fan. The fans come on at about 160 degrees.

Those fans are junk. That, or you're not remembering the capacity correctly. Are you sure they aren't rated for 2800 cfm, each?

The first electric-fan kit I found on Summit claims FOUR THOUSAND CFM.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16927

The two fans together pull 50 amps. Frankly, I consider that to be too small. OEM fans often need 30 amps or more per fan.

Note that the shroud has two rubber flaps that can open at higher speed.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

I have not verified the cam timing nor do i know how to do this. I'm sure when rebuilt it was set dot to dot. One member on this web site suggested setting the cam timing to 4 degrees retard due to the fact that he used this to cool a 67 GTO that he could cool no other way. What are your thoughts on this and how do i check the cam timing??

The brutally-fast, not-entirely-accurate method: (Works better on solid-lifters than hydraulic)

Remove left valve cover for 1--3--5--7.

Turn crank so that #1 cylinder is at TDC-EXHAUST.

>>>This is NOT THE SAME as most times you'd want #1 at TDC Compression (both valves totally closed.)<<<

Make sure the piston really is at TDC, and then make sure the mark on the damper aligns with "0" on the timing pointer. If the piston is all the way up, but the timing marks don't align, your damper has slipped and your ignition timing is no longer trustworthy.

With #1 at TDC-Exhaust, the camshaft will be on "overlap", both valves open very slightly, and the intake open more than the exhaust most likely. If one valve is open way more than the other, good chance the cam is mis-timed.

Getting more accurate than that requires degree wheels and dial-indicators. It'll be way more involved.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

You may be on to something with Your number 9 suggestion or comment . Attached is a picture of the way the heater water hoses run in my car. As you can see the heater hose leaving the water pump goes into the top tube of the heater core and the bottom tube then goes to the nipple on the back of the passenger side head, see S curved hose. Would having these switched cause a slow temp rise??

They're fine. Inlet at the bottom of the core, air bubbles rise to the outlet and are swept away by the coolant flow. Nothin' wrong there.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

Also what temp thermostat should I be using? a 190.

When you fix this overheating problem, I think you'll have your choice between 180 and 195. A "toy' car, in Texas...hard to argue against a 180.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

You are correct the electric fan shroud does not have flaps that open at high speed.

DITCH THAT ELECTRIC FAN SET-UP.

Fan, fan clutch, and a proper shroud.

Originally Posted by alanmay0

I will contact Butler Performance and ask about this.

I have never purchased from Butler.

I have the sense--correct or incorrect--from your posts, along with multiple other people who have street-operated engines they've bought, or bought parts from Butler based on their recommendations, that they may be able to build a decent racing engine, but their advice and recommendations for street engines are totally out-to-lunch. This is the "Street" section of the web site. Butler is not the folks I'd be going to for help. In fact, I'd go out-of-my-way to avoid 'em.