Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajones
Absolutely makes a difference. I deal with it all the time living at elevation and frequently driving to sea level.
Like Steve said really depends on how the carb was set up to begin with. It may have just been running a bit on the rich side up there.
Just have to try it out and see. If you're rebuilding anyway may as well get the kit from Cliff and he'll spec the parts for your combo, then you won't have to worry about whether it's been tuned previously.
|
I'm still recovering from a frustrating mess, aka Frankencarb, and don't wish it on anyone. Good clues for history of a "factory rebuild" are stripped finish and/or a bar across the vent hole as attached. A rebuilder sticker is an obvious indicator. I sent it to shaker455 after fighting it and he worked wonders.
Go through the carb before calling Cliff and make sure the carb has its original parts (body, airhorn, base). This alone can be a challenge as the part numbers in online references are not labeled on the parts. If you have any doubt, post photos and ask those that have seen a few hundred of them!
Then measure everything and compare with stock. Cliff can't tell what you're starting with. Informed decisions are better than assumptions.
It is hard to find the original configuration (DCR, airbleeds, bypass, etc.) to know if they've been modified. Kenth gave me a lot of that info and I was grateful.