As mentioned, wheel balancing can be misleading if performer by an inexperienced operator or antiquated equipment. I always ask (and pay more) to have wheels and tires run on a "road force" balancer. While not "new", these machines are far more advanced than the old school spin balancer. The idea is to match the inconsistency of a tire with any inconsistency with the rim. In addition, the road force can help determine if a tire or the rim is out of spec.
On an old spin balancer- it will tell you where to put the weights, but the end result can still be an out of balance assembly if the tire and/or rim are out of spec.
And speaking of the person operating the equipment... this past winter I mail ordered a new set of snow tires and rims for my late model Buick. The package included load force balancing. Bolted on the tires and car had bad vibration. Brought to local Goodyear shop and all wheels were way out of balance spec. Fortunately the original retailer covered the $80 rebalance, so I was only out my time and hassle.
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68 Firebird-- Street/Strip - 400/461 Eagle Forged Bottom End & Ross Flat top pistons. KRE 325 CFM D port, Ultradyne 263/271 @.050, .4267 lift. Crower Solid roller lifters and 1.65 stainless rockers. Quickfuel 1000 on Torker2 intake and 2" open spacer. Hedman 1.75" headers. TH400 w/brake. Ford 9" w/3.80 gears & 28x9 Hoosier pro bracket drag radial. Best ET: 1.35 60ft, 6.29 @ 107.20 mph, 9.99 @132.33 mph. 3,300 race weight
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