Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455
This may sound like I'm going against the general consensus, but, you don't always want to just strip a car to metal. In many cases, it's the thing you DON'T do.
I see so many think they are going to save money by doing some of the 'simple labor' only to make a mess and a much larger job than it should have been to begin with.
I see the look on the faces of body guys that 'come to take a look' at something someone has attacked, and it's of complete disgust most times.
Grinders, wheels, etc, can shink/stretch/heat metal/panels, and once that happens, it's hammer and dolly time, which can be a massive undertaking, and takes skill.
Leave the approach to the body guy, which he's most comfortable with, based on the level of job you want.
And there is a wide variety of 'levels' of body & paint. You can't just say 'Well I don't want a show car', because it's just like saying 'I never will race it'.
Some shops or body guys won't accept rollers, either, you need to talk to them BEFORE you even touch the car.
'Restoration' work is straight time and material, so reputable or not, it can take one person 20 hours to do an area when it can take another 200 hours, and you sign to pay for whatever it takes. Quotes don't mean jack.
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I guess your opinion holds water with those that don't know much at all, and or have a big wallet.
1. If you are stupid enough to bring a whole running car to a "body shop" you Will get "straight time", which is more or less saying there is a "Hidden damage clause" because the body guy cant see the bare car.
2. So you want to strip the car. You should bag and tag all the trim / handles etc. You CAN strip the body WITHOUT warping. The SCT was designed to reduce the heat that a disc can easily give. ( I dont work for eastwood).
3. Most "body" guys will not give you a menu of prices because their NAME is on it. Most want to SEE the Metal, or primer on it.
N0NE will guarantee their work unless THEY start at the metal.
4. IF you strip to have others finish and paint, you are saving them a VERY messy job, and about 20 hours of Labor at say $100/hr.
There is $2,000 you can pay the block sanding guy to make the panels flat and nice.
5. Good resto/Body shops do One thing WELL. Its body work and paint.
Never have them re assemble a car You took apart. Do that at home with friends.
6. Rollers; I have "shopped" Rollers at many Resto shops, and body shops.
On a Trailer that the estimate can be done and car completely seen has
Always been acceptable and you Never get any hidden costs.. BUT, There
IS a way to PREP a ROLLER for an estimate.
Everything MUST FiT. Redo the hinges ( doors and hood), ALIGN the panels REAR to FRont. ALL Panels MUST be on car. Get the gaps as good as possible.
This finished Roller is called a PROOF OF CONCEPT.. Same as a Clay mock up
when the car was in design. You have Proved to the Body guy that this is NOT a pile of Parts, and they all fit as good as original. ( even if it needs a skin) .
When they know they dont have to do anything else, they can give a more honest estimate of time.
7. What you pay for
I have said this for years, have worked in a body shop as well.
You Spend 70% of your hard earned dollars on SANDING, HAND / BLOCK SANDING.
IF you Present a Aligned, assembled Rolling Shell, likely you'll spend Less and get a better job done, and faster, but You will be doing the grunt work, and alignment. An example.
