[73LeMans]

Fear not, I did not sleep the entire time between this post and my last! Ive just been lazy in updating results. For that I apologize to any readers that may still be with me hoping this car someday sees the road.

With the car on stands and not running, I could overcome the brakes by hand at the rear axle. This is with a pal stepping on the pedal, no vacuum assist obviously, and prop valve adjusted fully for "More Brake".

I may have mentioned it in a previous post, but I'm thinking this problem is too short a rod length between the master and the pedal, so I'm starting there.

A 3/8 fine threaded rod connects the master to the brake pedal. It does so via a threaded female union connected to a threaded clevis connected to the pedal. (In this case, the top hole on the pedal (rather than the 2nd) due to the angle of the cylinder through the firewall. Wilwood wants no more than 5° here)



To be sure it wasn't limiting travel, I removed the metal bracket that holds the brake light switch, just in case. You can see the rod and the bracket in this picture -



A few adjustments to lengthen the rod and it seems the rear brakes were getting harder to overcome now. A few more times and its to a point where its now impossible for me to move the wheels by hand with moderate pressure on the pedal. Yeah its a good thing, but it took a lot of adjusting. It could also lead to two other conditions with which I need to be concerned -

- With this rod length, I could be very close to engaging the front brakes without even stepping on the brake. That would be bad. The wheels don't feel tight, but then again, there is always drag on a disk setup, so its hard to tell. Will keep an eye on that.
- I need to make sure any adjustments I made, didn't back my threads so far out of the clevis I only have a few engaged. That too would be bad. This made the list of final "to do's".

Firing up the car, putting it in gear (on stands still) and stepping on the brake will actually stop rear axle rotation while in gear now. That's an improvement for sure, but its not happening with any sort of urgency. With the prop valve fully set for "More Brake", these should be locking up very quickly if you ask me and it ain't happening.

They work better than they did before, but I'll have to see how it is on the road. I may have a few more rounds of adjustment to go here.