Well one thing you can do is tilt the motor so that you can fill that port up with light oil like WD-40, then roll up paper towel and slip it into the plug hole with the piston at TDC, if the in 10 minutes the towel shows signs of being wet from oil then that cylinder will be a problem if a valve job is not done to atleast that cylinder.
But who knows, if you do have a issue with seepage then a long lapping session and a new Intake valve may clear things up for you.
What I have done in the passed in a pinch lapping wise is to make a sleeve to fit around the top stem of the valve ( if your not getting a new valve) and then spin the valve loaded with lapping coumpound with a drill while pulling the drill back towards you.
Doing such for 5 to 8 minutes should get a halfway decent seal back between the valve and seat such that it will be no worse off then the seal of the other 15 valves in both heads.
If you start out to do this job and the valve will not pass down thru the top of the valve guide, then don't force it other wise you will scratch up the inside of the valve guide and have a whole new problem to deal with.
If valve will not come out it due to either a nick at the top of the keeper groove, or a peened over edge at the top of the valve you will have to sand or grind it off.
If the nick is at the top of the keeper groove then the valve should get replaced, if there is just a minor lip on the top of the valve it can be polished over and reused.
Either way the minor unstructiin
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs!
And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs!
1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set.
Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks.
1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes.
Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph.
Education is what your left with once you forget things!
Last edited by steve25; 12-07-2020 at 07:57 AM.
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