Quote:
Originally Posted by grivera
Thanks Jason. Yes- they are the Global West copies.
All the rubber in my front suspension is shot so thought I would do the control arms in the process but swap out the ball joints for pro forge or moof rubber pieces - didn’t realize the bushings in the ebay armes were crap too?
I already have a 1” Addco anti- sway bar kit on shelf to install in process. Wouldn’t mind a 1” drop in process.
I planned to buy a complete front end kit to do all the parts- tie rod ends, collars, idle arm, coil springs, etc. Any recommendations there?
Will also do the steering gear but haven’t decided on which one to buy. Finding a WS6 box is not easy.
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For a street car, where I wanted a bit lower stance, with some improved agility and grip and keeping budget in mind, this is the approach I would take.
Rebuild factory control arms with high durometer rubber bushings. Moog lower control arm ball join and a pro-forged .5" tall upper ball joint.
Lowering coil spring in the front and lowering leaf in the rear to suit. If yoru suspension is currently in a bad way, you might consider a 2" drop spring package. Your car is probably sagging already, going to a 1" drop spring may actually raise the vehicle.
DSE, Global West, Hotchkis, SPC, Eibach, BMR. These are all good brands. If you want a bit of a rake, keep the drop leafs the same as the fronts. If you want to level the car a bit, you want half an inch to an inch more lowering in the rear. If you need 3" in the rear, go with a 2" lowering leaf and get the rest of the drop through blocks. 3" lowering leaf is de-arched too much and will degrade ride quality.
1" solid or 1.25" hollow front bar. No rear bar is needed, but can be helpful to rotate the car faster if you're doing auto-x.
Replace the body bushings with factory replacement or poly/solid bushings while you're at it.
Complete steering rebuild from the gear to the outer tie-rods.
Add a set of Bilstein HD's or Koni Classic shocks.
New alignment with more modern settings.
-1* camber
+3* caster
0-1/16" toe in
That type of setup is going to get the car driving and tracking well, without destroying the ride quality or re-engineering the wheel so to speak.
Will it burn down the competition in your local CAM-T auto-x session? No. Will it feel more agile, still ride nice and give you trouble-free driving? Yes.