[torqhead]

Posting here in street section due to traffic here. Does anyone have an exploded view that shows the ram air component assembly for the hood of a 68GTO?

[Scott Thelander]

2 open cast scoops
foam insulator and
the hood pan

[steve25]

As posted above, there’s nothing much to it!

2 open scoops.

Hood pan,

Air cleaner base & foam.

Air cleaner lid,

It does not even look like the hood pan was sealed it would seem!

In 68 if it was inclement I guess they gave you easier access to put the stock closed scooped back in because there was no dash operated lever/ cable system to open and close the always open scoops until 1969.

I guess this system was used on the 1968 D port RA motor and the 68 1/2 round port RA motor?

[torqhead]

I know there's not much to it and I have all the parts now.

I'm trying to figure out "exactly" where the hood panel attaches to ensure when I close the hood it aligns with the breather. Also, I would assume the foam is attached with some type of adhesive, what's normally used?

[steve25]

Ah! Good question!
I thought you where just reinstalling a once run set up.
Well I guess the nose of the Hood baffle would be mounted centered in between the two scoops for starters.

Use that as a pivot point, which means getting the front to rear dimension set up first.

Ames sells a RA repro kit, so maybe you can get a copy of the instructions from them?

For attaching foam I would use adhesive caulk like DAP dynaflex which will not harm foam, and you can use a good old putty knife to spread it.

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by steve25

Ah! Good question!
I thought you where just reinstalling a once run set up.
Well I guess the nose of the Hood baffle would be mounted centered in between the two scoops for starters.

Use that as a pivot point, which means getting the front to rear dimension set up first.

Ames sells a RA repro kit, so maybe you can get a copy of the instructions from them?

For attaching foam I would use adhesive caulk like DAP dynaflex which will not harm foam, and you can use a good old putty knife to spread it.

Thanks Steve, I was figuring I might have to go similar to what you suggested but was seeing if someone had a copy of the assembly manual that might provide specifications. Done plenty of stuff with instructions, just figured it was worth a shot. I'll call Ames tomorrow, don't look like they have them on their site and thanks for the suggest on caulk.

On another note, Dan and Cliff, if you're reading this I guess you're in tune to my next upgrade now... lol

[OG68]

Unfortunately no assembly manual for 68 and the 69 is different. Here are a few photos of 68s I pulled off the net.

[Joe's Garage]

Those four holes (two on each side) line up with the attaching studs on the hood scoops. The pic shows them circled in red, and the text talks about swapping scoops.

That way, you could swap the scoops out when it was raining or snowing without removing the hood plate.

I'm thinking there were dimples in the underhood bracing to locate the attaching screws, too. But I could be wrong about that. It's been about forty years since we had our Ram Air 1968 GTOs.

I'm thinking there was some type of foam seal sold, back in the day, to go between the plate and the hood. I'll have to look through my notes.

Good luck!

[OG68]

This may help


https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...47#post5723547

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=482272

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by OG68

Unfortunately no assembly manual for 68 and the 69 is different. Here are a few photos of 68s I pulled off the net.

In those pics they're showing they cut some out of the hood. from what I could tell if that was done there would be any point for the foam to seal to in front. I thought it was the 69 setup that had to have that area cut out, maybe I misunderstood.

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by OG68

This may help


https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...47#post5723547

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=482272

Good find in the pics you posted here, that helps!

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by Joe's Garage

Those four holes (two on each side) line up with the attaching studs on the hood scoops. The pic shows them circled in red, and the text talks about swapping scoops.

That way, you could swap the scoops out when it was raining or snowing without removing the hood plate.

I'm thinking there were dimples in the underhood bracing to locate the attaching screws, too. But I could be wrong about that. It's been about forty years since we had our Ram Air 1968 GTOs.

I'm thinking there was some type of foam seal sold, back in the day, to go between the plate and the hood. I'll have to look through my notes.

Good luck!

Thanks, I was thinking to ensure the hole lines up with each of the scoop holes.

[OG68]

I just realized my first reference was for a Firebird but the second is for a 68 GTO

When new, the RA setup came in the trunk and the selling dealer had to perform all the cuts and installation of the pans.

[Greg Reid]

I did this to my '68 back in 2015. The hardest part was cutting the hood bracing with the hood in place...and still, it wasn't that hard. It's pretty straightforward in fact. There is a 'hook' that will support the rear of the hood panel as you line things up while holding the front in place until you can start marking, drilling etc. Drill the center front hole and place a screw in it. Now, it's 'mounted'. The access holes for the hood insert nuts will help you to center it. They will line up when it's in the right place.
Once you have it placed, you can start marking the hood brace. After you mark it, remove the pan and start cutting, fitting, cutting, etc. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, after taping and marking the cuts.
I did not glue the hood foam but I used regular 3m weatherstripping cement for the pan foam. It doesn't have to be coated. I just used a few smears around the perimeter. It's not going anywhere as the hood closes down tight on it.
At first, I had an idea to glue little squares of refrigerator magnet to bottom of the pan foam and that held the foam in place but the glue failed and I was over it. The foam is glued in place now.
Actually, I just noticed that two of those pics on post #7 are my car.

[torqhead]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I did this to my '68 back in 2015. The hardest part was cutting the hood bracing with the hood in place...and still, it wasn't that hard. It's pretty straightforward in fact. There is a 'hook' that will support the rear of the hood panel as you line things up while holding the front in place until you can start marking, drilling etc. Drill the center front hole and place a screw in it. Now, it's 'mounted'. The access holes for the hood insert nuts will help you to center it. They will line up when it's in the right place.
Once you have it placed, you can start marking the hood brace. After you mark it, remove the pan and start cutting, fitting, cutting, etc. I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel, after taping and marking the cuts.
I did not glue the hood foam but I used regular 3m weatherstripping cement for the pan foam. It doesn't have to be coated. I just used a few smears around the perimeter. It's not going anywhere as the hood closes down tight on it.
At first, I had an idea to glue little squares of refrigerator magnet to bottom of the pan foam and that held the foam in place but the glue failed and I was over it. The foam is glued in place now.
Actually, I just noticed that two of those pics on post #7 are my car.

Very helpful Greg, thanks!

[torqhead]

I thought I would share my results, key element to figure this out was about the hooks, I needed to bend these out of the one I bought online. I test fit to ensure the scoops would sit in there, bracket bending without damaging the hood and they needed to be smoothed out a bit due to being repops.

[Tom Vaught]

Nice

Tom V.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Has anybody included the big gray Hood insulation Pad?
I think that would look complete.

[4zpeed]

Originally Posted by Half-Inch Stud

Has anybody included the big gray Hood insulation Pad?
I think that would look complete.

Here is a couple links with info on installing the RA set up, including locating, lay out, and removing the bracing.

Some of it will be of great help in locating the pan, IIRC a few of the under hood insulation holes were utilized.

Not sure if that means the insulation was removed but I have yet to see it where a original RA system was installed.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com....php?p=6170632

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ybrid&t=809815



Frank

[Greg Reid]

Very nice! Looks great painted to match..