[Department X]

Got a remote mirror for my 64 off ebay ,but can't figure out how it mounts. What I need to know is the exact placement on the fender , the routing of the cable and where the remote wand mounts (on the dash?). Looking in the"GTO restoration guide" page 52. they give some info but it is unclear, at least I have not figured out what the diagram is showing. Also it came without hardware, any light shared would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[tom s]

without hardware you might be screwed.There is a bracket that bolts to the fender,DAMN hard to get the nut on.The cables go through a hole that you will need to drill and through the firewall.There is a hole under the dash on the outboard side of the steering coloum for the toggle.Good luck.Tom

[Pecosbill]

You MUST have the correct mounting bracket for this mirror. There is a specialized allen-type screw-fitting that is mounted on the bracket that you must also have. There is a hole in the base of the mirror. You insert an allen-wrench into this hole and catch the screw-fitting that is on the bracket and turn it, pulling the mirror down on the bracket (the mirror is threaded and the fitting turns into those threads from underneath. Do not try to put a sheet-metal screw down into the fender through the mounting hole....you'll only screw the mounting threads up, it won't hold very well and it'll look like crap.

I have mounted two of these on my cars...it is not hard to do if you've got the right parts and measurements. I bought an NOS remote mirror on eBay that was supposed to be complete, but the allen screw fitting was missing. I ended up fabricating one that looks and works just like the original. But the mounting bracket is not available in a repro; some of the catalogues say their's is for 64-67, but it is really only just for 65-67.

I am going out of town for a week beginning this weekend, but I can offer you a lot of help on this, having been there myself. I will be able to provide you with proper hole locations and sizes and pics, but probably will be unable to do so until I return the week after next. If you haven't received any info from someone else by then I'll be happy to help you out. Or, if you're in the San Antonio area you can stop by and I'd be glad to show it all to you.

If you cannot find the right bracket, I'd suggest going to a machine shop and having one made. I can supply you with dimensions and pics if that will help.

[engineer]

that's funny, I have a 64 mirror next to the 67 mirror on the bench and the mounting bracket interchange and look the same. As far as I can tell, the repo one is good for all.

[Pecosbill]

Engineer,
Is it a fender mounted remote mirror or one that mounts on the door? The mounting bracket for the 64 fender mounted mirror is a one-year only bracket. I tried the 65-67 bracket and it wouldn't work. That bracket is flat straight across, whereas the 64 has definite bends in it that enable it to function with the 64 mirror. I called Ames about their bracket, because their older catalogue said that it was for 64-67 and was told that it was a mistake, that the bracket was only good for 65-67 and would not work with the 64 mirror.

I looked at the PY online catalogue a minute ago and they actually list a bracket for the 64 remote mirror...part number RPD43A. It is listed as being in stock and for $25.00. If it is correct that could save a lot of hassle. They also list separate brackets for the early 65 remote mirror and the late 65-68 remote mirrors. The pics from the online catalogue won't load up on my PC for some reason, so I can't tell by looking at them.

[tom s]

64 GTO remote mirrors are fender mounts,very close to the 63 big cars.They actually made 3-4 diff versions.The diff I believe is the toggle end.Tom

[Department X]

Thanks Guys for the input. I have some time and a lot of work to do before I am ready to mount the mirror. So Pecosbill ,I can wait for more details when you you return. Thanks again

[Pecosbill]

Okay, Dept X, I'm sorry it took me so long to get to this, but here are your mounting instructions. I don't know how to post multiple pictures on one post, so I'll have to do it in multiple posts.

First off, here is a pic of the bracket and the little allen fitting for the 64 remote mirror:

[Pecosbill]

Here's how I figured where to drill my holes. I took these exact measurements from an original 64 Lemans that came from the factory with the remote mirror. Using these measurements the mirror fit perfectly. I put a flexible tape measure on the fender where it curves down into the hood area and measured exactly 6 inches to the center of where my holes would be:

[Pecosbill]

Another pic:

[Pecosbill]

After you've measured the six inches, put a piece of masking tape along the six inch line and measure it off again, this time making two or three dots that are all six inches from the hood.

Next, measure from the rear edge of the fender, where it fits against the door:

[Pecosbill]

You should have a piece of masking tape running in the general area of where you will drill your holes. From the rear of the fender, measure and put dots on your tape as follows:
13 1/8 inches from rear of fender.
14 5/8 inches from rear of fender.
15 3/16 inches from rear of fender.

These points will be the center points of your holes. Remember, these points must be along the line you drew that was 6 inches from the hood.

After you've measured everything, go back an measure it again. Remember, "measure twice, cut (drill) once?"

At the two points closest to the door, measuring 13 1/8" and 14 5/8", use a 5/32" drill bit and drill your holes through the tape. Leave the tape on when you drill your holes to prevent the drill from slipping and scratching your fender.

The furtherest point (15 3/16") from the rear of the fender, drill a hole using a 7/16" bit. When you're done, remove the tape and your holes should look like this:

[Pecosbill]

Now you're ready to install your bracket. Use sheet metal screws to mount the bracket in the two smaller holes:

[Pecosbill]

The small allen fitting fits up underneath the bracket before you mount it with the sheet metal screws:

[Pecosbill]

Now you're ready to mount the mirror. First, feed the rubber gasket over the cables. Next, feed the cables down into the large 7/16" hole that you drilled. You may have to feed the cables in one at a time to clear the sides of the hole:

[Pecosbill]

Notice that the end of the bracket that faces the rear of the car has an upturned end. This is a "stop" that enables the mirror to mount without wobbling.

The mirror will not mount flush with the fender at this point. Now you need to feed an allen wrench through the hole in the mirror and grab the allen fitting. The hole in the mirror is threaded and you are going to turn the allen wrench so that the fitting screws up into the mirror. This will pull the mirror down onto the bracket and fender. When you get the allen fitting tightened all the way, the mirror will then be flush with the fender:

[Pecosbill]

The cables should have a plastic sleeve on them. It doesn't have to run the entire length of the cable, but it is important to have the sleeve to prevent the cables from touching anything electrical under the dash and causing a short. There should be a rubber covering over a hole in the firewall that is just to the outside of where the fusebox is mounted under your dash. Feed the cables through this rubber piece, cutting the rubber piece with a knife if there has never been anything mounted through it.

Now you are ready to mount your control piece. Each cable has a small spring at the end of it. The springs hold the cable end in the control. You may have to push them down to get the cable into the control. Also, each cable has a tiny pin at the end of it. That pin will fit into a tiny hole in the base of the control piece. It is a tough job to get the pin in place and the spring collapsed enough to get the cable properly mounted; be careful not to bend the cable in the process. Also, it is good to have an air conditioned garage to try to do this bit of tedious work.

The cables are mounted in the following order, running clockwise: First comes yellow, next green and then red. (the cables should have these colors painted on them). If you mount them in any other order the mirror will not adjust properly. When its all done it should look like this:

[Pecosbill]

Notice in this last pic how the black plastic insulator is very close to the control piece. This is so to provide insulation to electrical dash components.

Don't tighten the adjusting screw in the control piece all the way to where there is no play in it. You will need a little play to be able to move the mirror.

Now you're ready to mount the control unit under the dash. You should have two phillips head screws and there should be three holes (a large one and two smaller ones) drilled under the dash near the parking brake handle for the control unit:

[Pecosbill]

That should do it. If you need any additional info or pics, let me know. Good luck. It's fun and it feels good when you've done it. That's why we like these cars so much...you can do stuff like this to them.

[b-man]

From a fellow '64 enthusiast a big thank-you to Pecosbill for providing some much needed info.

I have a very nice remote mirror assembly for my '64, but I can now see I'm missing the special allen screw. Some past owner improvised by using a common 1/4-20 X 1/2" hex head bolt and cut a screwdriver slot on the end of the threaded portion.

Not very pretty and not quite as functional but probably enough to get it together, but likely hard to get it tight enough using this fix.

I plan to try making a new part by first finding a stainless steel 1/4-20 X 3/4" socket head (allen) set screw, and then finding (or making) a thick stainless washer that I can tap for 1/4-20 thread. The washer will need to be about .125" -.150" thick, any thicker and it won't fit between the fender and the bracket.

I will then cut the set screw to the right length (5/8" or so?) and thread the washer onto the end of the set screw. The washer will then get TIG welded to the set screw, the threads and the weld should work together and provide plenty of strength to get the mirror snugged down properly.

If you happen to know the overall length of the special allen screw that would be helpful, but if not I can figure it out without too much fuss. Thanks again.

Oh, I'm also missing the toggle lever piece itself, it's currently being replaced by a 1/4-28 X 1.5" hex head bolt and will still function. But if anyone has a spare one they wouldn't mind selling I'm a buyer.