[T.Weber]

I was wondering if anyone has tried using graphite spray on their exhaust manifolds? I saw it used on a couple of youtube videos, thought it looked good so I gave it a try and really liked the results. It's a couple of shades darker than as cast - cast iron but looks good enough for me. Not to mention there's no need to bead or sand blast them before using. Just wire brush, clean with Brake Cleaner, spray with Graphite spray lube, let dry & wipe down. (I used PB Blaster Graphite Dry Lubricant $6.58 at Home Depot) one 5.5 oz can easily did both exhaust manifolds. My motor is still out of the car so I can't say how well it will hold up.

Off the car - wire brush, clean & spray, let dry wipe down & install
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nt75-4bzI8&t=48s

New cast iron manifold castings
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqh22Pafzag&t=344s

Old manifolds done on the car.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hHXm5Hxijw4&t=189s

My manifolds I did - the as cast Master Cylinder is there for color comparison. Any comments good & bad are appreciated. Be honest - you can't hurt my feelings - I don't have any.

[Shiny]

I like it. Nice job!

I used something similar about 15 yrs ago.....was a paste as I recall.

I don't know how well it will protect against corrosion long term (probably not great), but it's easy to touch up and I like the look better than paint and way better than rusty iron.

[bluejudge]

Originally Posted by Shiny

I like it. Nice job!

I used something similar about 15 yrs ago.....was a paste as I recall.

I don't know how well it will protect against corrosion long term (probably not great), but it's easy to touch up and I like the look better than paint and way better than rusty iron.

That might have been Calyx?

[Shiny]

Yes, that sounds like the product. Thank you.

[tjs72lemans]

I don't remember the POR 15 instructions saying anything about baking. I just bead blasted, cleaned with lacquer thinner and painted. Just as others have done with great results. My poor experience with VHT paints forced me to try this.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

I don't remember the POR 15 instructions saying anything about baking. I just bead blasted, cleaned with lacquer thinner and painted. Just as others have done with great results. My poor experience with VHT paints forced me to try this.

Read all safety warnings and precautions on label before use.

APPLICATION:
Liquid paint directions:

On previously painted surfaces blistered and loose paint must be removed. Sandblasting is the optimum surface preparation. Clean painted and bare metal surfaces with POR-15 Cleaner Degreaser to ensure that the surface is clean, dry, and free from oil, grease, dirt, salts, and any other contaminants. Paint all bare areas with two coats of POR-15 High Temp Coating. Glossy surfaces should be roughened with 320 grit sand paper before recoating. Allow POR-15 High Temp Coating to cure for 24 hours on the surface before temperature is raised above 300°F for full cure.

Dry time: Cures to touch in 4 hours. Second coat can be applied in 24 hours, depending on ambient temperature and humidity. POR-15 High Temp reaches maximum hardness after heat exposure above 300°F (150°C) for 15 minutes and then allowed to cool down.

Clean up: Do not put left-over paint back into can. Clean all equipment immediately after use. At the same time, flush out all fluid lines and carefully clean pressure pots. Use clean POR-15 Solvent only. It is also good practice to periodically clean the spray tip or the fluid tip/air cap combination during the course of the working day or shift.

Aerosol spray directions:

Surface must be clean, dry an free of all oil and other contaminants before painting. Sandblasting is the optimum surface preparation. Protect surrounding areas from spray mist. Must be heat cured at a minimum temperature of 400°F (205°C) for two hours. More than one coat may be required for full hide.

Shake can at least one minute before and occasionally during use.
Spray surface with steady, even strokes at a distance of 8 to 10 inches. Several light coats give a better finish than one heavy coat. For best results, recoat within 1 hour or after 24.
Cleanup: To prevent clogs in spray nozzle, hold can upside down and spray until clear gas appears. Completely empty cans may be recycled or disposed of with regular trash. Dispose of partially empty cans responsibly. DO NOT puncture, incinerate or compact.


https://por15.com/products/high-temp

[Formulajones]

Are you guys spraying it? Maybe taking the pint can and thinning it down to spray?

Im just trying to find the difference.

I don't do that, I use it straight out of the pint can with a throw away brush. I was never remotely interested in running that stuff through my $800 gun.

[Stuart]

Kind of like the old school method of using wood stove polish, which has graphite as the main ingredient.

[gtospieg]

My manifolds were brand new and prepped the way POR said to do it, including baking them in the oven. I'm pretty sure the silver stuff was called POR 20. This was in 2013.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by gtospieg

My manifolds were brand new and prepped the way POR said to do it, including baking them in the oven. I'm pretty sure the silver stuff was called POR 20. This was in 2013.

Yeah that's just really strange and honestly unheard of around the car circles I'm involved with. Maybe a bad batch of POR, or maybe prep issues?

I've never done anything special to the manifolds when I use it. Just glass bead, brush on, install on car, that's it. Even on old used manifolds the stuff has held up perfectly.

[b-man]

The jury’s out until you’ve put some miles on them.

Anything you paint onto exhaust manifolds or headers will look good before you run them

Hopefully they’ll look good after a few years, if not then it’s just some labor to get them off and a small outlay for a different product to get them redone.

[tjs72lemans]

I used the paint by brush method with the Eastwood can paint. 2500 miles later, they look as good as day I did them.

[Jack Gifford]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

I used the paint by brush method with the Eastwood can paint...

Which Eastwood product?

[78w72]

Originally Posted by Jack Gifford

Which Eastwood product?

The makers of POR-15 have the same type of high heat manifold coating too. I used it on turbo exhaust manifolds and wastegate thats lasted for 10+ years. Looks like fresh cast iron.

[tjs72lemans]

Brush on, not spray. I guess since I wasn't using aerosol, that's why my can never mentioned baking it on. It doesn't require that.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

Brush on, not spray. I guess since I wasn't using aerosol, that's why my can never mentioned baking it on. It doesn't require that.

I posted the instructions for both brush on & spray aerosol... both say that a curing process is recommended for maximum hardness. The brush on does require that for best results.

[Stuart]

One benefit of using products like graphite/Calyx/stove polish/etc. is that if and when the manifolds start looking scruffy, you can just reapply more. No real preparation is needed.

[Stuart]

It appears Eastwood only has one high temp coating for exhausts these days: https://www.eastwood.com/paints/hi-t...st-paints.html Years ago they had a product with stainless steel in it that left an as cast look. I used it on my car with good results but it's not in their catalog anymore.

[dataway]

I think people have been using "Slip Plate" graphite products for a while now on exhaust manifolds. They make an aerosol and a brush on. I've used it for years on my snow thrower chute. No idea how it holds up on exhaust though.

[tjs72lemans]

I just looked since it's been a few years. Yes, it's POR 15. Great stuff.