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#1
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Single to Dual Master Cylinder Conversion Complete. 1964 Pontiac Catalina
I have recently completed the conversion of my brake master cylinder in my 1964 Pontiac Catalina from a single reservoir to a dual reservoir. I have been asked by members to provide details. This is the way that I did it, your results may vary. I excuse myself from any liability in modifying your original brake system using my method.
This is the "preliminary" conversion. Now that I know what I need, and that it works, I will fine tune it in the weeks to come. Basically, I plan on tidying up my new brake lines, to make it more presentable. You'll see in the final picture that I ended up using one 20 inch and one 30 inch brake line. I will probably redo this with 2, 20 inch lines. Here is the basic info: Originally I started with a single master cylinder with 4 wheel power drum brakes: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883527875/ 1. Materials: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883529389/ In this picture you will see the master cylinder I originally purchased from O'reilly Autoparts, but returned due to it being defective. The small allen head screw at the very end of the master cylinder was stripped and leaking. This was a Cardone rebuild. I then purchased a Fenco rebuilt cylinder that did not have this screw, and was in fine shape. A. Master Cylinder Autozone M-1328 B. 2, 1/4 inch brake lines. These have ends that are 7/16-24. SAE Inverted Flare. (NAPA). I used one 30 and one 20 inch. You may use any length that you desire. C. 9/16-18 Male to 7/16-24 female adapter Carquest (part number unknown) (Not Pipe Thread!) D. 1/2-20 male to 7/16-24 female adapter (Not Pipe Thread!) NAPA E. 7/16-24 male plug. NAPA (Not Pipe Thread!) F. Female 7/16-24 to female 7/16-24 "barrel" connector. (Not Pipe Thread!) Carquest G. Dot 3 brake fluid. I didn't exactly do this in these steps, due to my bad new master cylinder, but this is how I would do it if I did it again: 2. Procedure: 1. Remove existing master cylinder. Look at the hole where your brake push rod enters the master cylinder. If there is a hole that is over an inch long, then it is the deep push rod. If it is just a divot, then it is the shallow push rod. 2. Remove the brake line at the distribution block that goes to the rear brakes, and the line that goes to the original master cylinder. Soak these connections in PB Blaster several days before you attempt to remove. 3. Insert the "plug" into the distribution block where the original rear brake line connected. 4. Insert one new brake line into the distribution block where the original master cylinder brake line connected. 5. Using the barrel connector, connect the other new brake line to the existing brake line going to the rear brakes. http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883531871/ 6. Loosely install the new master cylinder in position. Check to see the pushrod fits correctly. I didn't have to make any adjustment to my push rod. 7. Bend the new brake lines to your liking. I just did it by hand, because I don't own a tubing bender. Take your time. The line going to the rear brakes connects to the front output of the master, and the line going to the distribution block goes to the rear port of the master. Your front brakes should always connect to the port that is nearest to your brake pedal. 8. Once your lines are bent to your liking, remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Even though I thought I bench bled it thoroughly, I still had air that I had to deal with. 9. Reinstall the master cylinder, and install the correct adapters needed to connect the brake lines. Have a helper depress the brake pedal then tighten the connections at the master cylinder. RESIST the temptation to jump in the car and "test" the brakes. If you do, you'll draw air into the master and have a fun time bleeding the system. 10. Take your vacuum bleeder and throw it in the trash. Call your wife to come out and help you. It worked a million times better. Bleed your brakes from rear right, to rear left, to front right, to front left. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder. 11. Test for brake pedal firmness, and go for a slow test drive. If you're like me, you'll realize that you STILL have air in your system, and will have to bleed again tomorrow. Completed conversion: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883530859/ Again, your result may vary. I enjoyed this project, and feel better about taking my wife and daughter out for a drive now. As you may have noticed, not one single store in my area had ALL the parts that I needed. You will probably have to shop around. Don't hesitate to ask me if you have any questions. I am by NO MEANS an expert, but even a blind squirrel gets a nut every now and then. Thanks for reading, Good luck! Matt K. |
#2
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Thanks for the writeup Matt! If I ever get around to working on my car, it will most certainly be helpful.
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Darin '64 Bonneville Wagon (sold) 69 Lemans-All motor (sold) 9.81 @ 136.39MPH |
#3
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OK so the line closer to the booster goes to the front brake distribution block and the other one supplies the rear brakes, correct?
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Sometimes towed but never trailered! |
#4
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Yes, the line closest to you always goes to the front brakes.
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#5
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Just wondering where you found, or was told this information? All of my GM Pontiac shop manuals and assembly manuals show and state that the front brake line goes to the front port and the rear brake line goes to the rear port of the master cylinder. Bob
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC |
#6
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Quote:
Every dual master cylinder that I have ever seen is designed this way. Some newer cars split them left and right, but this is not the case in our old Pontiacs. Thanks, MK |
#7
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Quote:
On disc/drum cars with a proportioning valve, the rear port must be connected to the front brakes, and the front port to the rear brakes. Also, the biggest reservoir always is for the front brakes. MK |
#8
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Nice work. Remember what the Master Cyl. set you back?
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#9
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I want to say the Master Cylinder was around 25 bucks.
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#10
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Good stuff here!!
mkoser, couple of questions: 1) for specifically what application (year/make/model/options) did you request the m/c? 2) total cost of parts? 3) just to clarify: you retained the OE junction block and used the rear half of the new m/c to supply fluid to the rear wheels (please confirm). ...it would seem unnecessary to fit a 'proportioning' valve when retaining an all-drum system. 4) how many miles have you driven the car in the new config? Would you say that under the full range of brake application (easy, panic, etc.), that they feel balanced (no new amount of nose-dive or rear wheel skidding, etc.)? |
#11
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Quote:
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#12
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This is just the type of information I needed to do my 64 Catalina.
However, I too would like to know for specifically what application (year/make/model/options) did you request the m/c? Thanks for the great job! Mike. |
#13
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Looks like that thread is from August 2010 so he may no longer check his PY account.
I got mine at Advance Auto Parts and it's for a 1969 Bonneville with 4 wheel drum brakes. No portioning valve is neccessary for drums brakes, I guess because the front wheel cylinders are larger than the rears? You may have to adjust the plunger rod. When I first did mine the brakes were full on. I had to shorten my original push rod.
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Sometimes towed but never trailered! |
#14
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I normally tell them it's a MC for a '69 Camaro ss/rs, or '69 Bonneville
-r-
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Never trust anything that bleeds for five days and won't die. |
#15
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Get a Master for a 67/8 Catalina and it will work. At least it did on my 65 G/P.
A disc master will retain pressure on the front brake port.
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
#16
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Quote:
MK |
#17
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And how do you know how much to shorten or otherwise change the push rod?
Thanks again. Mike. |
#18
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I used a M-1328 master. Did not need to adjust my push rod at all.
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#19
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Push rod may not need changed depending on which master you use.
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so many pontiacs, so little time.................. moderator is a glorified word for an unappreciated prick.................. "Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former." --Albert Einstein "There is no such thing as a good tax." "We contend that for a nation to tax itself into prosperity is like a man standing in a bucket and trying to lift himself up by the handle." - Winston Churchill |
#20
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Sorry I have been away! Been busy. We added a daughter to the family in September, and work has been insane!!!
Thanks, MK |
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