[jimib]

Although due to funds, I prefer (for now) to stay with my 14 inch wheels.

I have it narrowed down to four companies

Stainless Steel Brakes $925.00, works with 14” wheels
Performance Years: $895.00, works with 14” wheels
Master Power Brakes: $850.00 but requires 15" wheels
Hotchkis Performance: $1297.00, don’t know what size wheel it requires but tubular A-Arms included

Suggestions appreciated of my smartest options.
I’ve read most all the posted issues on disk conversions.
Lastly, what’s the story on tall spindles? What do they do? I just want to keep my GTO level and a little higher off the ground since it seems to sag low.

Thanks in advance
Jimmy

67 GTO, Auto, 400

[jimib]

Joe,

Can't you heat the lines and bend it yourself?
I ask because I may have to do this?

Jim

[jimib]

Although due to funds, I prefer (for now) to stay with my 14 inch wheels.

I have it narrowed down to four companies

Stainless Steel Brakes $925.00, works with 14” wheels
Performance Years: $895.00, works with 14” wheels
Master Power Brakes: $850.00 but requires 15" wheels
Hotchkis Performance: $1297.00, don’t know what size wheel it requires but tubular A-Arms included

Suggestions appreciated of my smartest options.
I’ve read most all the posted issues on disk conversions.
Lastly, what’s the story on tall spindles? What do they do? I just want to keep my GTO level and a little higher off the ground since it seems to sag low.

Thanks in advance
Jimmy

67 GTO, Auto, 400

[ontheblocks]

Tall spindles give a better front end geometry, better handling, and tire wear. There are some issues concerning 14" wheels, but looks like you have that covered. If you are going to alter the stock ride height, tubular upper A-arms may be needed to get the alignment dialed in.

[roadrage david]

CAB witch kits are we talking about as i bought the compleat force 10 4 piston calipers/system with 13 inch disks in the frond and single piston handbrake system with 11,25 disks for the back. i havend install them yet , cant imagen they would not stop my 68 bird properly(forgive my spelling im Dutch)

[retrojoe]

Well, here's another great one from the kit I bought. I finally got the line that I had them make for me, only to find it was bent as if to mirror my templet. The bend that goes into the P-valve is 180 out from where it needs to be! ARRRGGHHH!!!!! I am going to take the original one they sent me and have someone cut it down for me.

[rexus31]

I went with Stainless Steel Brake Corp. on my '64. Easy to install and they work great.

[My64GTO]

Go with Polygraphite, urethane squeak.

http://www.p-s-t.com

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jimib:
Actually that’s my plan. I’ll be purchasing all polyurethane bushings and most likely replace the majority of front end parts. Still weighing my options on though on tubular control arms. Don’t know if it’s worth the money. It’s just a street car. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

[462conv68]

All is done with no problems. I and the restorer would recomend SSBC. He said he was very impressed and they are better than any other kits he has used.

[cblandin]

The kit on my 1st gen bird was teh standard SSBC power disc kit (not the Force 10 kit). At least 3 of us on the 1st gen Firebird list are dissatisfied with teh performance of the kit despite the fact that it looked good, installed easily, and all parts appeared to be of high quality. I'm leaning towards the power booster being undersized in this particular kit - doesn't seem to get enough pressure to the front calipers ultimately. One of the members tried replacing the master cylinder already still without satisfactory results.

[retrojoe]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR> It sounds as though some of you have not dealt too much with the aftermarket! Welcome to the world of hotrodding. If the line isn't bent correctly, bust out a tubing bender and make it right. If you guys are at a state where you are doing brake conversions, cutting and flaring tubing should be a no brainer. a little bracket fab work won't kill you either. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Tininjun67, I agree, BUT when you shell out close to a grand for a setup, you better get it right the first time!

[428PHIL]

Bought my kit from SSBC about Year and a half ago. Instructions where so so,told you to replace the steering arm backwards. What none of the suppliers of convertion kits tell you is that most require a min of 18" of engine vacuum to operate their booster. Am running a Ram Air IV in my 428 and it only gets 12". Had to change the master from the one sent which was for 4 wheel disc, to one for front only. Added a canister and that help quite a bit. So beware, not all as advertised.

[PonchoMike]

GTO2050, I used the Inline PDB conversion on our 65 GTO, no installation problems at all. I went with them because they cut me a break on their SS lines.

[My64GTO]

Jimib,

The spindles that came with the kit didn't lower my front end at all. The only other mod I had to make was to go from 14x6 rims to 14x7 rims to accomodate the calipers.

I did have a problem with the passenger side caliper bracket, it was either stamped or bent incorrectly and wouldn't fit. I called them up and they sent me a new one, but not before charging my credit card $80 for the replacement. They did credit me $80 back when they received the defective one, but I had to call twice to have it removed from my credit card. they said they couldn't find the package. (Always send UPS!) That kind of pissed me off. Did they really think I was going to jipp them $80 after spending $1K on the kit? Also when talking to tech support, the tone I got from the two questions I had seemed to "annoy" the person on the line. Those are my reasons for my so-so customer service comment.

One other thing to note. The SSBC kit comes with a crappy adjustable rear prop valve. Spend the extra money and get a real prop valve from Inline Tube. And while you are at it,you can buy pre-bent brake lines from Inline Tube also. SSBC doesnt carry the front brake lines to the Master Cylinder.


<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jimib:
My64GTO

SSBC may be my 1st choice, bummer though about "So-So customer service.

I'm still trying to find out if tall spindles lower the front end. Certainly don't want this!!

Thanks
Jim <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

[cblandin]

All - Several of us on the First Gen Firebird Mailing list have used the SSBC kit with less than stellar results (each made the decision independantly of the others with EXACTLY the same results). The kits look great, install easily, and do everything EXCEPT STOP THE CAR CORRECTLY!!! None of us were successful in getting enough pressure to the front calipers. Under "average" braking conditions everything seems OK, but under hard braking this kit just doesn't cut it. At least one of us has tried replacing the master cylinder with an entirely different unit with higher capacity (i.e. 1 ton truck unit I believe), but results still weren't what they are supposed to be. I can't comment on SSBC's other (non first gen Bird) kits, but I can say these kits do not appear to work as they are supposed to. It may be a booster issue, but I have yet to spend even more money exploring that avenue.

[jimib]

My64GTO

SSBC may be my 1st choice, bummer though about "So-So customer service.

I'm still trying to find out if tall spindles lower the front end. Certainly don't want this!!

Thanks
Jim

[GTO2050]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by PonchoMike:
GTO2050, I used the Inline PDB conversion on our 65 GTO, no installation problems at all. I went with them because they cut me a break on their SS lines. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>I pulled the trigger on the inlinetube set and upgraded the master to an 11" and stainless. Now I am waiting for the package toarrive!

[Donovan]

If I was working on an A-body and wanted to retain original 14" rims I'd look into mid 80's G-body brakes and spindles.

With the proper adapter balljoints and tie rods you should be able to bolt in the tall spindle of a G-body since the spindle is essentially the same as the Tall spindle on a 12" rotor conversion with B-body parts, but with a shallower mounted caliper.

The G-body STANDARD discs use a rotor about 10.5" and would be the best chance of fitting in a 14" rim. Worst case you will need 14" rims made for disc brakes, which are out there.

Still need to check for caliper to rim face clearance but it would be a good chance. The knuckles and brakes are dime-a-dozen in the salvage industry and can be had cheeeaap. This also allows you to have discs that you can maintain with parts from ANY parts store.

You could go a step further and get the rear discs off of an 82-86 F-body, and bolt them on the rear. They fit in a 14" rim too. Then buy a cast iron 4 wheel disc master cylinder for the 79 WS6 TA. Bolt a combo valve from the same into the car and you have a done package behind stock rims.

With this setup you have the improved suspension geometry and brakes all in one move. I have not done the swap but the impression I get is that people have completed it with no need for the tubular arms.

[olblue]

SSBC power kit on my 67 Tempest works GREAT, PST Poly-Graphite bushings were a good idea at the same time.

Still running my 14" Rally II's, which helped me to decide to go with SSBC, in the first place. Plus Minimal hassles.

See my project atSouth Coast Rides go to "in Progress"

[jimib]

My64GTO

The faceless “tone of voice” on the opposite end says much of the individual and employer whether good or bad. Sounds like your event was frustrating rather than painful, so I’ll still keep this company in mind. This is great to know however.

I’m certainly trying to avoid mix and match parts but just a prop valve and brake lines doesn’t sound too bad.

By the way, I thought the original brake lines would work.
Is it necessary to replace the master cylinder and power boaster also?

This should be a fun project!!!!