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rzrektd · 04-20-2005, 08:52 PM

As I realize I will fall short on my goal of using no plastic filler in my body job, I need to find a good plastic filler. Would anyone care to share who has the best product and how I can get ahold of it.

Thanks!

Greg Reid · 04-21-2005, 10:47 AM

Yeah, that's the one I was trying to think of. I mistakenly thought Evercoat made it.
How is it?

PetesPonies · 04-23-2005, 05:11 AM

there is not much difference in any of the polyester based filler.There are different amounts of talc, to make one creamy, one have more body. But as far as how long it last...it depends on how it is used and the work underneath. Any filler can be considered permanent if used correctly.

mike nixon · 04-20-2005, 09:05 PM

the type of filler depends on what you're doing with it.

go to a local body shop supplier and talk to them about this.

personally i like the evercoat system.

mike

oldmanbird68 · 05-20-2005, 07:07 PM

well i need a lot of work on my old 68 bird

64catdroptop · 04-21-2005, 09:28 AM

I've used RAGE for years. It may be a buck or so more, but well worth it.

-r-

64catdroptop · 04-21-2005, 09:38 AM

Beamy,

Evercoat is also an excellent filler. I use the evercoat for finish/small stuff - kinda like a spot putty only catalized.

Body fillers now-a-days are excellent. The reason people don't want to use them is because it got a bad wrap in the '50s (when first brought out on the market) - you know, fill a rust hole with some screen and bondo and you're good to sell the car. But when used properly, it will well out last/perform any lead filler. Not only that, but it's safer for your health. Some people will erroniously use bondo to fill a 1/2, 2 inch 'something or another' when really they should use something like Duraglass. Bondo should only be used to smooth - not fill a giant hole. If the fill is going to be more than 1/4 inch thick, use Duraglass first, then bondo to finish.

Nathaniel, rest assured, most of your top show cars have some bondo filler in them. You're using an excellent product and nothing to be worried about. Now that said, I have probably a quart in my entire car, but not 4 gallons worth.....

-r-

Greg Reid · 04-21-2005, 07:10 AM

I like the Rage Gold for ease of use, sandability and lack of pinholes.
For strength, I use an Evercoat product that has short strands of fiberglass mixed in, then add Rage on top for appearance's sake. Evercoat also makes a filler that has metal in it. I'd like to try that one out.

Greg Reid · 04-21-2005, 09:37 AM

beamy, here it is-

I think they're being generous when they call it "gold"...looks just like baby sh_t. When you mix it with the blue hardener, it has a very pretty lime sherbet color.
I've sanded a lot of very old Bondo off and it was still hanging tough...so I'm not knocking it but what I like about the Rage is it sands so easily and there are NO pinholes. No need for that acrylic spot glazing compound. Not as of yet anyway...

rzrektd · 04-20-2005, 08:52 PM

As I realize I will fall short on my goal of using no plastic filler in my body job, I need to find a good plastic filler. Would anyone care to share who has the best product and how I can get ahold of it.

Thanks!

BigDan3131 · 04-21-2005, 10:22 PM

The allmetal is a very easy to use product and is totally waterproof unlike plastic filler.When I use plastic the finest I feel comfortable sanding it to is with 80 grit before primer.With all metal you can go all the way to 220 grit and it hold primer great with no bleed thru.

1969CATALINA · 04-21-2005, 10:36 AM

ALLMETAL IS A FILLER MADE OF ALL METALS & ALUMINUM---

NO PLASTICS--
Manufacturer USC Chemical Mfg. Part # 14060

64catdroptop · 04-22-2005, 05:17 AM

The allmetal is an excellent product also, I've used it and my dad likes to use is exclusively. It's a matter of preference on allmetal or polyester. I easily sand down my Evercoat with 220 grit and prime with excellent results. Once again, it's a matter of preference

Now, the Duraglass on the other hand..... I'll take it down with 36 grit (it's kinda like sanding a rock), then use the RAGE to finish (that is when the application requires Duraglass)

-r-

beamy45 · 04-21-2005, 09:20 AM

17 years ago,i used regular old Bondo on a 73 monte carlo that i drove for about 12 years, and never had one problem with the bondo cracking or failing.

now the bodywork itself is a different story.....(i hadnt heard of "blocking" yet....

ive used it on every other car i had since, including my bonneville that im working on now. i do have a can of evercoat that i just got, but havent used it yet.

hey greg, tell me more about the Gold Rage youre using, ive never heard of it.

64catdroptop · 04-22-2005, 05:21 AM

BTW Beamy, Not that you're doing this, but usually pin holes come from when a person takes, say, a tablespoon of filler and applies the whole tube of hardner to it. You may be adding too much hardner to your filler and remember that temp and humidity play a roll in the hardening process. If you add a bit less hardener and give it a bit more time to catalize you'll probably end up with less or no pinholes.

-r-

BigDan3131 · 04-22-2005, 03:13 PM

Oh and one other thing,The Allmetal takes just drops of the hardener to set.

Scode68 · 05-20-2005, 06:45 AM

I emailed the place where I bought it and got a response but it didn’t answer the question. Didn’t even come close! I’m thinking that somehow the mixing was incomplete because I had areas that sanded with no pick up but yet it setup quick as I could only skim half a roof before I had to mix another batch. I say that it set up quick but really I spent more time mixing than I did spreading it.

The All-Metal Filler must be sanded down with 60 or 80 grit paper, most people use an air hi-speed sander. The product is designed to fill in and seal the area from water. It should then have a thin coat of body filler applied over the All-Metal. Once dry, the body filler can then be sanded smooth. If you have any more questions, please contact our tech department
at 1-800-321-9260.
TP Tools

Scode68 · 05-17-2005, 10:19 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by BigDan3131:
The allmetal is a very easy to use product .... I feel comfortable sanding it to is with 80 grit before primer.With all metal you can go all the way to 220 grit and it hold primer great with no bleed thru. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I’m trying to sand it with an IR-315 in-line sand and I’m having problems. Seems to be loading up the paper. It should be cured well because the left over got rock hard. I mixed it lick they said, 12-15 drops of hardener to about a golf ball size glob. Could the sander be creating too much heat or something? I think it was mixed pretty well but it will get little globs that build up on the paper within 10 seconds of sanding.

64catdroptop · 04-21-2005, 09:44 AM

I suppose I should be more specific. RAGE is an Evercoat product, but I was referring to the Evercoat Polyester Glazing Putty.

rzrektd · 04-21-2005, 09:57 AM

Thanks guys. I hope that I don't need to use more than a quart in my car either. My body work I guess is very good (so my experienced autobody friend says) but with having to replace the driver side quarter with that crap repop and then welding in the lower patch panel made one heck of a mess (in my standards). It turned out well, but I still have a lot of low spots that need worked out. I have found if I hammer and dolly for only about an hour or two at a time, I make progress. I know I will get to that point that I'll just have to cover it.

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