[Jagtec1]

The box I plan to use allows you to wire it so that timing (10 or 25*) is taken out either while cranking only, or while cranking and until motor hits 1300 RPM's. What would be the best way to do it? Basically, it would get wired to the starter circuit, or to an ign. switched 12V. This is all in reference to a 12.5:1 455 with timing locked at 32-36. Thanks!

[60man]

That is different than the MSD one I tried. It would only retard a max of 20o. It would stop retard at 900 rpm. With timing locked at 36-38 that was still not enough retard. I had ignition and box wired to stock ignition switch. I roached 2 SFI flex plates....I got rid of start/retard box and unlocked timing and divorced ignition circuit from start circuit. Now I can spin the motor before I turn on ignition...best thing I ever did.
Also have distributor set up where full adavnce comes in at 1,500-1,800. I have 18o advance in the dist. and run a total of 32-34. With the seperate start/ignition deal it starts fine at 14-16 initial.. Maybe with the split ignition deal it would have worked but why run something you don't need. JMO Darin.
Your box sounds different so go for it. You can't race if you can't start ...
I bought a MSD 6AL+ and want to play with it this season. Has several retards built in,one is start retard.
Good luck man.

[grnmnstr]

I ran that box. It worked great. I left it as is which retarded the motor, while CRANKING, 10 degrees. You can cut a loop for 25 degrees, but I don't think that is necessary.

You can also crank the motor over first and then hit the ignition. This will aid in starting a high comp motor. I never needed to do this. With my 13:1 motor, GPE starter and TCI flexplate, never has a problem. I guess the start/retard helped.

[racegto65]

I run a MSD 7AL2 with the 10 degree retard built in with 14:1 compression and have been very happy with it.

[RH152]

also run start retard box 13to 1 hooked to starter circuit no problems

[Jagtec1]

I tried to restart the motor yesterday when hot, and timing at 32-33*, and was not able to...and that was with killing the ignition via a cutoff switch. I think I'll either try the box, or unlock the distributor (pro-billet on loan) and put very light springs in. I'd like to have ti locked to eliminate one variable, and for better idle/cooler operation.

[60man]

I at some point want to try locking my timing out again. I may try to do it when I go to the MSD AL6+ box. I can dial more retard in than with the Start/Retard add on box. Being only able to retard it back to 14-16 degrees initial was not enough when hot. MY CR was 12.5+ My out was unlocking the timing and divorcing the ignition & start circuit. They are ontwo different switches.I have some MOPAR (yeah,I know) buddys that went to some "custom" ultra light wieght springs and unlocked their timing. They get full adavne at 1,000-1,200 RPM. Most of them launch at about 1,5-1,800 so they are full advance when leaving.....That's is how mine is set up.
Like I said..more than one way.
Have to do what works best for you. I just got tired of roaching starter pinions & flex plates. Also make sure you have a STRONG battery to help starter spin that bad boy.
Take care