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#1
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Hi, How many of you guy's with 65' GTO's & LeMans switched to Front Disc Brakes ? Did you change to the Double Master Cylinder and a Prop. Valve or keep the Single M/C and run just a Prop. Valve ? What Kit did you go with ? Which way is the Least Expensive ? Or do some of you still run 4-wheel Drum ?
Thanks....
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#2
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least expensive ...........any GM a body donor car 1968-72 straight forward swap
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#3
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I went with 69 - 72 used GM stuff, I did used new double master with new prop valve from GM or any aftermarket line supplier. I used Canada line and tube. Also used new lines from same supplier. U can also reuse old spindles and buy brackets from Scarebird, or have your spindles machined down to fit GM brackets. Also complete kits are available for around $550
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64 Lemans hardtop 4spd, buckets |
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#4
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I was thinking about looking into the Scarebird stuff. I kinda like that the parts are a Napa trip away...And looks easy too....
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#5
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Mine came out of a 70 chevelle. I did replace the large booster with a 9" unit for valve cover clearance.
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#6
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Let's see...first, got 2nd gen F-body stuff, new dual master and prop.
Currently, B-body 12" spindles, and 1LE 12" rotors. Next, Wilwood or Kore3. And for the rear....
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How many of you have driven over 340?
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#7
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got mine out of a 70 gran prix, parted the rest, price in the end,,$0.00 dollars,,,,,,,,,,priceless!!
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65 gto conv.tri-pwr 4spd tiger gold 65 lemans conv. ho 4spd 66 gto 4spd 67 gto auto 66 vette conv. 67 chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 |
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#8
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Always use a dual master.
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Tempest455 |
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#9
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Also, if you buy a new booster make sure the master cylinder push rod is seated correctly in it. There is a small hole in the booster that that mates to the small tit on the push rod. I used a thin screwdriver to center the hole in the booster and the rod seated correctly.
I didn't do that when I installed my brakes and as a result the master couldn't release and my front brakes over heated and locked up. it is amazing what 1/8" will do!
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#10
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I went with a kit from cpp with new booster,master cylinder, cross drilled rotors, and 2" drop spindles, the parts are all new and you can got to any parts store in the future since it is all gm. I think i paid 849.00. There web site is really good also.
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#11
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I bought a '69 Malibu parts car for $100, took the discs off the front and sold the rest of the car for $1000. Doesn't get any cheaper than that.
I did use the calipers and master as cores at Autozone and got new. Also bought a line conversion set from Right Stuff Detailing.
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Matt 1962 Grand Prix - Cameo Ivory|389 4sp|One-Owner Survivor 1964 GTO HT - Silvermist Grey|389 3x2s 4spd|A/C|Hurst Wheels|Frame-off|SOLD 1965 GTO Post - Mayfair Maize|421 3x2s TKO600|Pro-Touring| 1966 GTO HT - Barrier Blue|389 3x2s 4spd|Red Fenderliners 2005 GTO Coupe - Yellow Jacket|Magnacharged LS2 6sp|543hp/561tq|SOLD 2006 GTO Coupe - Spice Red|LS2 6sp|20k orig miles |
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#12
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I am helping a friend with a 64 GTO and we have a 72 grand prix parts car. Is there any advantage to also changing the upper and lower control arms from a 72? I think the dual master will bolt to the vacuum booster also. Is there a line kit to make this easier or just make them yourself? I am also planning on using the grand prix portioning valve.
Thanks, Paul |
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#13
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No advantage on the arms. There are kits for the lines, but you can also bend them yourself and save some money, especially if you already have the tools.
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How many of you have driven over 340?
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#14
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i made my lines myself and now i have 70 chevelle front disc but when i was desperate and just wanted disc and couldnt find any i took soe from a 73 gp and used 73 inner outer tie rods 73 gp upper lower bjoints only thing was i had to have the lowers turned i think .070 to ft but it worked real good when i was done only hing i wasnt impressed with wathe upper and lower bjoint mounts on grandprix spindle were 2 inches further apart but it was able to be aligned and worked.
just thought id tell my story since on the disc brake subject i definateley reccommend stayingwith 68-72 stuff although i still have all the gp stuff if anyonwe needs it and its free |
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#15
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I did it with a CPP front disc brake delux conversion kit. The install went okay, but the brake peddle does not depress smoothly throughout its range of motion. There is a suddon increase in peddle resistance when the brake peddle is about half way down. It feels like something in the booster or master cyclinder is engaging.
Does anybody know if this is normal for a 1965 GTO power brake system (discs in front and drums in rear)? |
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#16
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i thought that it was normal for it to get harder to push after the half way mark
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#17
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Dual mastercylinder. I dont think a single master cylinder pushes enough volume.
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