[Jagtec1]

I want to hear from people that have used them...plates from frame to front of heads on both sides. Any head gasket problems? I do not want the typical "that won't work because...." from people who have not tried it. Real world experiences only please.

I am considering using them on both sides in addition to the stock mounts I currently use. They would be mounted to the heads with 3 bolts per side. I will add front and mid plates at some point, just not now.

I know people have done it. I just want to hear what experiences people have had.

Thanks.

[Apache Warrior]

Darin, I am using them currently with no problems to date. My best ET so far is 11.78 @ 115

Here are some before and after pictures. Before being when I got the '63 back home from the fabricater - After being with my current motor installed in the car.

[Jack Ferris]

Im considering something to that tune but I'm starting to lean towards a motor plate so I have a mounting location for a vacuum pump. Mid plate will not work for me due the the headers. So I will use a plate with the regular mounts. If you use the front and mid plate only you need the lateral bars in place.

[taff2]

A friend of mine has used them on his mild race car for about 10 years without any problems. His are homemade steel and used with stock type motor mounts. Car runs 11.50,s with a 400 motor.

[455-4+1]

I use them in the sprint boat with shifts of over 4 lateral G's in less than a second

Mine uses a motor plate (steel) behind the timing cover and picks up on one of the accessory bolts in the face of the heads

This allowed some support above the COG of the engine to help restrain it and stop it bending the mounts under high G cornering

I also use a full rear motor plate

[BruceWilkie]

I've used 3/8ths chain from drivers side(head bolt hole closest to timing cover) to frame in same manner without issue in the 11.70's range. Sure was better than broken mount and resulting pulled throttle cable that happened prior to doing so!(big bang just before 60 ft and lift pedal and still accelerating hard gets your attention quick) I see no issue in doing it your way if not using as only mount.

[J H Performance]

I use them and a midplate on my dragster with no issues. A friend of mine used them on his tube chassis firebird with no problems.

[goatroper]

I use 1 steel rod connected to the head and frame on the drivers side of my car. I also use stock rubber motor mounts. It goes 10.80's and never a problem with head gaskets.

[johnta1]

I use them in my dragster, no problem.

But I think if you have the stock mounts, I'd just use a chain or something to control movement. Really only need it on one side.

[Probird]

Originally Posted by johnta1

I use them in my dragster, no problem.

But I think if you have the stock mounts, I'd just use a chain or something to control movement. Really only need it on one side.

Ditto to what John said. I use the stock mounts and a chain on drivers side head only. No problems running 9.80's.

[Jim Zeek]

Darin...look into Allpontiacs front motor plate that goes outside the timing cover. No extra work and will make things easier if you ever have to remove heads in the car.

[60man]

Originally Posted by Jim Zeek

Darin...look into Allpontiacs front motor plate that goes outside the timing cover. No extra work and will make things easier if you ever have to remove heads in the car.

Ditto Jim. Front Plate is like having another cross member to help stiffen the frame some more too....
Darin without some kind of motor support you risk a lot more than just hood damage from air pan.....Just ask me.....I'll tell you...
I lost my file pics of last motor destruction but I think you remember it !!
Just ask Jack G. and Brad also...
I just think you would like a AP plate in the long run...it does the job and out of the way..

Nice install Jess...think I'll look into stabilizer rod..

[Jagtec1]

John, I use an air pan to seal the carb to the scoop. I'm not only trying to help with transfer of torque, but am also attempting to prevent the motor from "dancing" at idle, and otherwise. Hood is not liking the abuse!

I think I'll use them. I got 2 nice pieces of Aluminum, just over 1/8" thick. I'll weld up some angle to the frame, and bolt the plates to it. I'll post up pics when done.

[fast72lemans]

I use them as well......never a problem due to plates.

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by Jagtec1

I think I'll use them. I got 2 nice pieces of Aluminum, just over 1/8" thick.

Probably just a typo, but you would want to use something in the range of 3/8" aluminum.

[Ron]

Dump the stock motor mounts and use the elephant ears. Elephant ears for 10+ years without problems.

[Jagtec1]

I will retain the stock mounts and add the "ears". Thanks all!

[Ron]

My opinion.....you could find yourself fighting between the elephant ears and stock motor mounts and IF and I say IF they were not perfectly aligned could cause a bind and possible a break or failure somewhere. The elephant ears are more than enough to support high HP motors and the chain support is also capable of supporting high HP motors but...again in my opinion you could fine them fighting between themselves.

Regardless of your decision.....have fun and enjoy your ride.

[Jagtec1]

So you are running only ears and a tranny mount?? I can't see that working well...too long of a distance between mounts. Or are you running a midplate?

[Ron]

I run a mid plate, front plate, and a poly trans mount with elephant ears. Been this way for over 10 years without a problem.

My new car will run a full front plate from BOP with a mid plate and a poly trans mount.