[Greg Reid]

I need a gauge package for my engine break-in... I just bought new oil and temp sending units (stock) for my non gauge equipped '68.
If I go with electrics, will they work with the stock temp and pressure switches?
I'm guessing not but I'm hoping so.

[Ollie]

Best to have a direct reading pressure gauge for first fire up.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Ollie

Best to have a direct reading pressure gauge for first fire up.

If I go with the mechanicals, I may just mount them directly, ie. under the hood.

[goatwgn]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I need a gauge package for my engine break-in... I just bought new oil and temp sending units (stock) for my non gauge equipped '68.
If I go with electrics, will they work with the stock temp and pressure switches?
I'm guessing not but I'm hoping so.

New electric guages come with their own sending units. The stock ones arent calibrated correctly.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by goatwgn

New electric guages come with their own sending units. The stock ones arent calibrated correctly.

Just as I suspected. Thanks guys....

[HWYSTR455]

The aftermarket ones MIGHT be calibrated correctly, since most sending units work in a particular range. BUT, you have to dig to find the sending unit specs, and, why bother when electric gauges come with sending units (usually).

Aftermarket sending units over the last X number of years have become much more accurate than ones from the past, mostly due to technology, and the requirement by ecu controlled engines. Gauges also react faster than in the past. This basically gives an arguement to using electrical gauges in performance cars.

Obviously, hook up is simplified with electrical stuff as well, making it even another plus for street and street/strip cars. And you can suppliment with a warning light.

There's a hazard with mech gauges, like a line burst in or outside the car. Mech water temp gauges are suceptable to capilary tube failure, which trashes the whole gauge. Another arguement for electrical.

Me, personally, I prefer a mech oil gauge, but I do frequently check the line. They get brittle, the ends get boogered up, and other typical stuff with lines. I keep extra line on hand, and a number of extra fittings, so I can at any time replace an end or line when needed. Also carry spares in the 'road kit' with my tools, as well as a block off plug.

The Cutlass project I'm doing now will get a electrical oil gauge, and am curious as to how that will work. First one ever for me, but it's going to be my daughter driving it mostly, and doubt she'll look at it anyway!

.

[rolling money pits]

if you go with a mechanical oil pressure, be safe/wise/prudent and invest in a pre-made length of braided AN line for it.

no nylon, no copper, no compression fittings.......

obviously, where it goes through the firewall, use a grommet.

and like mentioned above, you could spring for two in case one blows out while on the road, or simply keep an AN cap in the car and get a new line after the fact.

[Greg Reid]

I really would prefer electrics for ease of installation and less risk of leaks but they've got a selection of mechanicals at the local Advance and because convenience is a factor for me, I'll probably go with one of them.

[Thomasmoto]

Originally Posted by rolling money pits

if you go with a mechanical oil pressure, be safe/wise/prudent and invest in a pre-made length of braided AN line for it.

no nylon, no copper, no compression fittings.......

obviously, where it goes through the firewall, use a grommet.

and like mentioned above, you could spring for two in case one blows out while on the road, or simply keep an AN cap in the car and get a new line after the fact.

X2 Mine are done that way.

[grparen]

I use a copper line for my mechanical oil pressure gauge.

[goatwgn]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

The aftermarket ones MIGHT be calibrated correctly, since most sending units work in a particular range. BUT, you have to dig to find the sending unit specs, and, why bother when electric gauges come with sending units (usually).

Aftermarket sending units over the last X number of years have become much more accurate than ones from the past, mostly due to technology, and the requirement by ecu controlled engines. Gauges also react faster than in the past. This basically gives an arguement to using electrical gauges in performance cars.

Obviously, hook up is simplified with electrical stuff as well, making it even another plus for street and street/strip cars. And you can suppliment with a warning light.

There's a hazard with mech gauges, like a line burst in or outside the car. Mech water temp gauges are suceptable to capilary tube failure, which trashes the whole gauge. Another arguement for electrical.

Me, personally, I prefer a mech oil gauge, but I do frequently check the line. They get brittle, the ends get boogered up, and other typical stuff with lines. I keep extra line on hand, and a number of extra fittings, so I can at any time replace an end or line when needed. Also carry spares in the 'road kit' with my tools, as well as a block off plug.

The Cutlass project I'm doing now will get a electrical oil gauge, and am curious as to how that will work. First one ever for me, but it's going to be my daughter driving it mostly, and doubt she'll look at it anyway!

.

Put electric guages on my car about 5 years ago to simplify connections. (Used Stewart Warner). The oil guage reacts just as quickly (maybe even quicker) than the old mechanical guage I had in there.

[HWYSTR455]

3 gauge pod = $30, easy to mount, 3 small screws, and it's out of the way, won't get kicked or anything.

I took the gauge pod, put a piece of sandpaper on the lower duct, and sanded the pod to match the curve of the duct. Fits perfect, minimal effort.

The ones in the pic are VDO, mech oil, electric water and volts. These are on the 71 LeMans, same as the 68 for the most part.

Volt = 24 bucks

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-332103/

Oil = 26 bucks (electric)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-350104/

Water = 25 bucks

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-310105/

Gauge Pod = 30 bucks

http://egauges.com/vdo_indA.asp?PN=POD-004

I wrapped electrical tape around the tach, and it fit right into the right-most dash opening next to the speedo.

.

[george kujanski]

AutoMeter or VDO. Years ago I was working on a engine management system using oil pressure transducers (senders). In the automotive grade (as opposed to the costly instrument grade), the VDO senders were the best I tested.

george

[Pontirag]

if I could hijack this thread for a moment and get it back on the origional issue. safety is a major concern. if you have mechanical guesges and they fail it could result in hazzaardous flamable fluids in the passenger compartment.

[Greg Reid]

Yeah, there are drawbacks and positives for each. I'm going with electric because of ease of installation and the fact that HWYSTR got me started with a donated electric water temp gauge.

[Greg Reid]

I gave up on trying to get the pipe plug next to the distributor out. Felt like I was going to break something...any reason why these won't work together at the filter housing? One source for both gauges? (I want to keep the idiot light as well as the gauge...)





Also, I tried to make the gauge pack work with my '68 Turquoise interior so I painted the bezels and the pod to match the '68 interior...

[HWYSTR455]

Looks fine in there! Nice!

On the filter housing location, it works, though not sure about the fitting material, might not give as good a connection as desired. (I usually use brass). But think you're good, give it a try. If the readings are off, it won't be by much. Use the grey rtv on the threads that's safe with senders, help eliminate any further resistence.

.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Looks fine in there! Nice!

On the filter housing location, it works, though not sure about the fitting material, might not give as good a connection as desired. (I usually use brass). But think you're good, give it a try. If the readings are off, it won't be by much. Use the grey rtv on the threads that's safe with senders, help eliminate any further resistence.

.

Yeah, I was looking for brass but the store I was in didn't have it. I'll probably still use brass but wanted to try it out for fit with the headers and all...and the galvanized was only a couple of bucks for that purpose.