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#1
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Rusty Divider Plates
Is there any way to protect them if you can clean them up? I've been thinking of using a rust killer like what Eastwood sells. And if possible using some kind of heat resistant paint over that. Will it work or just wasting time and money? Or some kind of solution that you'd put it in to soak to kill the rust and protect it?
I know Rustolium has spray can of rust killer, and I've used a product called Extend before that worked. Haven't seen that one lately but there is stuff out there. BTW... this is for useable original divider plates, not the SS plates.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. Last edited by GT182; 03-31-2011 at 09:39 AM. |
#2
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#3
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Dan, if powder coating adds any increase in thickness to the plates it won't work. It's close now for the fit for them in the timing cover. Anodizing sounds like it'll be the best way.
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Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#4
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I talked to Andre and bought all the plates. I hope you don't mind. I will choose one and send the others to Charles or you. I have got to get my car on the road. I just pray the plates are the real deal dn aI have a call to Bob Vidan as well. |
#5
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You can't anodize steel. It is a process that is done to aluminum.
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#6
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I thought you could anodize any metal! I will check! Thanks!
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#7
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The plates are the real deal, and considering how good a condition they are for being 44-47 years old, I reallly don't think you have to do anything to them but run good antifreeze or coolant. As a matter of fact, on my '66 motor that sat for 20 years with prestone/water mix in it, and never started, the plate and timing chain cover were like NOS.
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#8
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I happen to have an 11 bolt pump and plate that were stored that way and are no good. Didn't matter as all I cared about was the timing cover, and that went for a good cause to qualitly control at Cardone Industries.
__________________
Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#9
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Where you planning on converting to the 11 bolt originally?
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#10
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Paul says he does it all the time to make them work and the plate is SUPPOSED to be a copy of an original from the last design Pontiac came up with! I know better. It may work with the botched up pumps the manufacturers have been making, but there is no way in hell, Pontiac on the assembly line, banged the hell out of the plates to make each one fit! Someone is not thinking and to me the Ames plate is WRONG. Gary has been right all along. Where I started the quest on the pump change with Cordone and Charles and Gary sealed the deal, Gary was very insistent from the start about the plate being wrong and he was RIGHT! |
#11
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__________________
Just a blind squirrel looking for a nut. |
#12
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X3! That being said, new water pumps should come with the plate (or plates) already with the proper clearance, like the Edelbrock pumps. Would be just a little more expensive, but how expensive can running an engine hot all the time get to be? Imagine how ineffective the SBC And BBC pumps would be if the left the rear cover plate off? Kidding around a little here, but you get the point.
Last edited by goatwgn; 04-24-2011 at 11:46 PM. |
#13
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#14
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I
m unsure how zinc would last. I could get it chromed as well. Still think powder coating is tough enough and the ammount of increase it causes would be minimal! |
#15
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This one I have almost looks like it was painted. But it may have been Black Phosphate plated.
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#16
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At least yours looks like an old one with the slight bevel to accommodate the impellor. The stainless ones have little bevel and without the key way cut cause problems.
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#17
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I cleaned the originals in my '65 and in my '67 and painted them and the inside of the timing cover with Glyptal to prevent further oxidation and corrosion. Glyptal is that orange/red electrical insulation enamel used on electrical windings and inside of motors. I first learned of it when I redid the magneto in my Ford Model T. The stuff is like epoxy, withstands hot engine oil and coolant, and is bulletproof. A lot of engine builders paint the lifter galley's of the block with it, as well as the top side of the cylinder heads to help speed up oil flow to the sump. It feels like porcelain or epoxy when it dries, and it dries fast. I picked up a spray can of it at an electrical supply house for under $5.
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Jeff |
#18
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Also have some Gibbs Lubricant coming to treat them first. Charles says it's goooood stuff from what he's seen so far. And you can paint over it.
__________________
Gary Get in, ShuT Up, Hang On! Member of the Baltimore Built Brotherhood MY GTO built 4th Week of March 1966 "Crusin' Is Not A Crime" Keep yer stick on the ice. |
#19
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I checked on anodizing and it can only be done on aluminum, so that is out! Powder coating was next and the guy didn't feel comfortable in the environment it would be running in and suggested marine paint.
What amazes me is I have now 9 plates, and there is so much varience in them! About 4 different changes and the original is the only one that comes close with the pump Cordone sent me. Amazing! |
#20
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you can have them passivated or phoshate coated ( marhyde sellds phosphating chemicals for bodyworking ) http://3mcollision.com/mar-hyde-one-...ter-03513.html , this will work for any ferrous type of material ,
Norwood is right anodizind only works on aluminum as it forms a hard oxide from the electric current and sulfuric acid on the face of the metal. |
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