[Darth Menace]

Hey, now that the headlight episode is fixed, I guess it's time to look into the next fix. The console/cluster lights don't seem to be working. Well, actually the green blinker lights/oil light/little red high beam indicator light/those types of lights work, but not the lights for the speedo/gas gauge, etc.

I looked and there was a blown 10amp fuse in what I think is for that one. I replaced it with a 20amp (which it calls for), but no go. I was hoping it was something as easy as the fuse, but I don't think so.

Do the lights on the main clusters work on a different fuse than the working ones above? Or since the one set works, does that mean the others should as well?

It would be nice if the problem was the bulbs, but does it make sense that all of the above mentioned ones be burnt out? I would have thought a couple, but not the huge amount that I mentioned.

Is there some place that I should start after the fuse?

[webfoot]

First things first - have you made sure the rheostat in the headlight switch isn't fully adjusted down?

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by webfoot

First things first - have you made sure the rheostat in the headlight switch isn't fully adjusted down?

I didn't know this car was that technologically advanced. I thought the cluster lights would have gone on when pulling the headlight switch out. Otherwise I didn't think there was anything else.

[webfoot]

if you turn the headlight switch, it also adjusts the brightness of the cluster lights.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by webfoot

if you turn the headlight switch, it also adjusts the brightness of the cluster lights.

Oh, I didn't know that. I turned it and no light though

[indymanjoe]

The dash bulbs share the printed circuit board,hopefully its just bad bulbs.I had some that didnt work in the dash cluster but i found the connections at the bulb socket were weak,cleaned the contacts of the bulb sockets and where they meet the printed circuit board and all works now.GL

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by indymanjoe

The dash bulbs share the printed circuit board,hopefully its just bad bulbs.I had some that didnt work in the dash cluster but i found the connections at the bulb socket were weak,cleaned the contacts of the bulb sockets and where they meet the printed circuit board and all works now.GL

so is that circuit somewhat like the old string of Christmas lights, when one is out it makes them all go out? Can these be replaced from below, or does the dash/cluster have to come out?

[indymanjoe]

No they are not wired in series,you CAN finagle your hands to change a few but its bestest to pull the dash.Darth,by the time you have alot of the issues with old cars figuired out you will have fixed the issues in 1/4 the time what some say is a 4hr job in only 1hr.Because you will have done it 15 times LOL

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by indymanjoe

No they are not wired in series,you CAN finagle your hands to change a few but its bestest to pull the dash.Darth,by the time you have alot of the issues with old cars figuired out you will have fixed the issues in 1/4 the time what some say is a 4hr job in only 1hr.Because you will have done it 15 times LOL

Oh no...now time to pull the dash. I was hoping to avoid that until next year. I will try to fingle me hands in there to replace a few at least, and if they work then I can keep on trucking. I don't want to pull the dash, replace the bulbs and that not even be the problem.

I went on the sylvania site and searched for it on the car. There are a few options for the dash bulbs...does anyone know what ones they are for the bulbs I am needing?

https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/appli...l=1055&make=75

[webfoot]

194 push-ins.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by webfoot

194 push-ins.

like so?

[Darth Menace]

when I say console I mean cluster. I just can't change the title

[indymanjoe]

I removed the wiring harness at the firewall.soooo much easier..

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by indymanjoe

I removed the wiring harness at the firewall.soooo much easier..

do explain....I have no idea what you are talking about (I'm sure that's a shocker)

[ts3189]

first things first check all the fuses with an ohmeter.

[nytrainer]

I think in the other thread you had regarding the headlight problems it was mentioned to you to check the ground on the cluster. The ground for the dash lights go through the cluster housing then through the "ground bars" (see red arrow in the pic). These connect to the metal dash which is tied to chassis ground which returns to the negative side of the battery. If the "ground bars" are missing or not solidly connected to metal dash you won't have the cluster lights.
The pics are from my '68 dash but the cluster on the 69 are similarly connected to ground. If you look at the pics you will see multiple "ground bars" which all tie into body ground.
My other suggestion (since you mention that some bulbs work?) would be that the actual rheostat circuit in the headlight switch is not working. I had similar non working cluster lights and it turned out to be the headlamp switch...
By the way you can see where the 7 black light bulb housings are in the pics (some are backlight bulbs, some are indicator bulbs). These housings simply twist and pull out of the metal cluster. You then replace the push in bulb in the housing and put it back into the cluster. The copper tangs on this bulb housing will contact the copper on the printed circuit providing the positive and the grounds circuit which, if you follow the path, takes you too common ground studs.. and as mentioned before, ground bars, metal dash.......to battery negative.
Hope that helps some.

[ts3189]

the instument lamp fuse is the small 4 amp fuse at the bottom of the fuse block ,not the 10 . amp courtesy lamp fuse.check with headlamp switch on to see if you have power on both sides of that fuse.

[Darth Menace]

Originally Posted by ts3189

the instument lamp fuse is the small 4 amp fuse at the bottom of the fuse block ,not the 10 . amp courtesy lamp fuse.check with headlamp switch on to see if you have power on both sides of that fuse.

I checked all of the fuses with a test light. They all light up MINUS the small fuse for the cluster. Neither side of that fuse lit the test light up. The switch was pulled and the ignition on while I tested it

[ts3189]

darth ,was the headlight switch turned all the way to the right if it was probable headlight switch i would run a jumper from another fuse to test and see if the lights come on with power to that fuse if it does you need to test back from fuse panel to headlamp switch might be easier just to plug a need headlamp switch and see if the problem is fixed.

[gtohurstjudge]

Darth, you have to check the simple things first before you start removing dash boards. You need to purchase a test light which is simply an ice pick with a bulb in the handle
and a cord sticking out of the handle that you can hook to a power source or a ground.
Ground your test light to the door jamb switch for the courtesy lights(that is a good ground)
and turn on the headlamps and touch the tip of the test light to each end of the dash
light fuse in the fuse box and see if you have power on both ends of the fuse. do this with
the headlight knob rotated clockwise to the left so they lamps are set for maximum brilliance.
If you have power on one side of the fuse but not the other you have a blown fuse. If you
have no power on either side of the fuse, you need to remove the headlamp switch and check
power coming out of the switch by probing the wires with the switch plugged in and hanging
down below the dash. I believe the wire you will be wanting to check will be light gray in color.
If all the power is present at the fuse on both ends, you may have a bad connection at the
back of the circuit board where the plug plugs into the board. To check for a grounding problem you can take a jumper wire, ground it to the door jamb switch and touch the other end to the bottom of the metal of the cluster. If you have a grounding problem this will make
the lights work. On a 69 model Lemans , the grounding bar goes from the wiper switch to
the bottom left hand corner of the cluster. If you wind up needing to remove the headlamp switch to check it, you remove it by reaching behind the dash and feeling for a small
spring loaded push button the side of the switch. When you find the push button by feeling for it, push it all the way in then pull out on the headlight knob and the entire knob and shaft
will come out of the switch.(You may need to jiggle around on the knob to get it to release.) After the knob and shaft are out, unscrew the nut that is holding the switch to the
dashboard and the switch will come down where you can check it.