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#1
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I have recently redone the AC on my Can Am. Everything is working and cooling fine except for one problem. Sometimes when I am sitting at a stop sign or red light at low rpm's the compressor starts squealing. I can turn the ac off when the compressor squeals and wait until I am running 20 mph or so to turn the ac on and the compressor will not squeal anymore while I am at speed. I can drive 20 miles or so at highway speed and the compressor does not squeal so I do not think it is a problem associated with the compressor getting hot. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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#2
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Sounds like your A/C system is building up pressure at idle, which can mean your fan isn't pulling air through your condenser. Do you have a bad fan clutch? It could also be your system is overcharged. You belt is loose or wore out.
67 Tempest OHC 3 on the tree |
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#3
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What did you have redone? Like GOLDOHC said check the belt.
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'68 GTO '69 Corvette '75 Cadillac Coupe Deville TOM |
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#4
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I have a new compressor, accumulator and evaporator. The ac hose assembly has been rebuilt. The belt is new and seems to be tight enough so I do not think it is the problem. I think it may be the fan clutch. The fan does not move much at all when I spin it with my hand. Isn't that an indication the clutch could be bad? I have also noticed the car is running a little hotter than it used to run. Thanks for the suggestions.
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#5
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Sounds like too much head pressure.....
__________________
1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars |
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#6
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I have done some more research and this is what I have found. I adjusted the fast idle solenoid so the idle speed is not the problem. I have noticed the compressor is not cycling. It was previously but did not cycle any tonight. I hooked gauges to the low side and the pressure with the ac on is around 40 and it is cooling fine. The pressure starts rising and the compressor starts squealing when the pressure rises to around 50. Isn't the compressor supposed to cycle to keep the pressure at an acceptable level? What could be the cause of the compressor not cycling now? Could the system be overcharged? The 134 retro high side fitting is not any good and I can not check the high pressure until I get a new fitting.
Just went back out and started ac with car at 2000-2500 rpm. AC cools fine and low side pressure is constant at 38-39 with no cycling. Compressor starts squealing as soon as rpm is decreased. Last edited by dtollison; 06-16-2014 at 08:04 PM. |
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#7
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Some of the a/c cars had a two wire hookup by the evaporator, that would cycle the compressor when the evaporator would drop below a set temperature. If I recall it was called a thermistor. Your correct, your low side temperature sounds high, but that doesn't mean it is overcharged.
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#8
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Your not bringing enough air through the condenser. At 2000 rpm (in park)hi speed fan and MAX or recirculate bring your low side to between 30-35 on the gauge. This will give you very close to the right amount of freon. With all that if your situation does not better at an idle. Buy a heavy duty fan clutch such as a Haydon. You need to get as much air through your condenser as possible!!!!!! You are running 134A in a system that was designed for R12, the condensers on cars designed for 134A have more fins per inch. No real need to change the condenser though. I run 134A in my 71 T/A with no fancy tricks, ice cold on a 95* south Florida day, five years now.
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1978 Black & Gold T/A [complete 70 Ram Air III (carb to pan) PQ and 12 bolt], fully loaded, deluxe, WS6, T-Top car - 1972 Formula 455HO Ram Air numbers matching Julep Green - 1971 T/A 455, 320 CFM Eheads, RP cam, Doug's headers, Fuel injection, TKX 5 Spd. 12 Bolt 3.73, 4 wheel disc. All A/C cars Last edited by FrankieT/A; 06-16-2014 at 08:20 PM. |
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#9
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The low side readings do not tell the story. You need to have someone check the high side reading. If you do it yourself be careful it will likely be reading 200+ PSI even at idle.
If the fan or clutch is not doing their job pulling enough air through the condenser, then the high side reading will rise dramatically (300+ PSI!!). This can definitely put excessive strain on the compressor making the belt slip. Once you get moving (20mph) the air flow through the condenser improves and the high side pressure stays in check. If you cannot get the high side reading you can spray water on the front of the condenser and see if the squealing stops. Be careful you are dealing with extremely high pressures on 1/2 of that system. |
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#10
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I agree with the pressure spike at low speeds, check fan/clutch air flow through condenser
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1989 Automotive Hall of Fame Inductee |
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#11
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a fan clutch has an internal thermostat that locks up at a certain temperature, warm your car up, turn on the a/c, open the hood, there should be a lot of hot air coming through the fan.
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#12
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I am a novice at all this. Are you saying I should feel the hot air at the front of the car when I open the hood after I have warmed the car up and the ac is on?
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#13
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I went out and let the car warm up. Turned on ac and opened hood. I do feel warm air moving around the engine compartment. I then drove the car. Ac worked fine but as soon as engine rpm got between 500 to 1000 compressor started squealing. I got out and looked real quick and it appears the belt is slipping on the compressor pulley. The belt is new and seems to be the right tightness. I turned off the ac and then got back up to speed around 2000 rpm, turned on the ac and it worked fine for 5 to 10 miles until rpm dropped to 500-1000 range again and compressor started squealing again. Engine temp gets up to 200 or so and does not begin to drop until I turn the ac off.
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#14
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Check the shroud to radiator fit. I've been using foam weather strip from hard ware store and get it sandwiched between radiator and shroud for a zero gap.
A new HD fan clutch may be in order. Is the A/C Idle up solenoid on the carb operational?** Is it a 7 blade fan? Is it the Valve In Receiver (VIR) style system.
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Bull Nose Formula-461, 6x-4, Q-jet, HEI, TH400, 8.5 3.08, superslowjunk |
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#15
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The seal appears to be good but I may try some insulation. The solenoid is operational but I am not sure if it is adjusted properly. When I turn ac on, the solenoid pops out but it does not touch anything to change idle. I am not sure what a VIR system is. Does have 7 blade fan.
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#16
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Belt tension or alignment is my best guess..
__________________
72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned ![]() Best so far 12.40 Milan Dragway 2025 I am the Thread Killer! |
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#17
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If you've glazed the belt, it's toast and needs to be replaced. Even with a new belt, if it wasn't installed with the correct tension or the pulleys are not aligned, it will slip and squeal as you describe. Once glazed, it will ride too low in the pulley and continue to squeal until replaced. The belt needs to ride on its sides within the pulley. You also might have to sand the pulley with 200 grit or super fine steel wool to remove the old glaze.
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Andy North Carolina 1967 GTO SG over Parchment / mom original owner / sold in '78 / found 35 years later |
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