[Nitebird]

I was trying to install my Dougs 1 3/4 headers on my 1979 Trans Am SE 4spd car and currently I have the passenger side header and engine mount bolt installed. The 4spd trans is also installed along with the trans mount loosely bolted in.

I figured that I would leave the driver side engine mount bolt out so that I could jack the engine up on that side if I needed the clearance to install the driver side header....BUT....before I even try to install the that header it doesn't look like my driver side engine mount bolt holes are lining up. In order for them to line up I would need to jack the driver side of the engine up for the bolt holes to line up..BUT...on the passenger side the header would hit the crossmember if I did that.

Any suggestions on how to get them to fit?

Here is a pic of the driver side engine mount....

Passenger side header pic....

[GOAT WHORE]

Port-a-power to move the header for clearance. Place between the header and crossmember and spread them apart.

[Nitebird]

Maybe I have the wrong mounts on the engine?

[GOAT WHORE]

Maybe so, not sure about that. In my experience the headers don't clearance everywhere and you just have to make it work.

[69FIREBIRD76MM]

May be too much trouble, can you removed head then drop in header? Is only ten bolts, or can you hoist engine both m-mounts need to be unbolted?

[Nitebird]

I removed the passenger side header. I wanted to see if I could get the engine mount bolt holes to line up first.

If I get the engine mount bolt holes lined up and I am able to get the engine mount bolts in...I wonder what I should do first in order to install the headers?

Do I need to remove the engine mount bolt and the 4 speed trans cross member?

[Nitebird]

Is it possible to install the headers with the engine mounts already bolted up?
In other words do the engine mount bolts have to be out for the headers to bolt up?

[Gerrit]

I installed mine with the engine in position. From below. Raised the car a removed the starter.

[Nitebird]

Originally Posted by Gerrit

I installed mine with the engine in position. From below. Raised the car a removed the starter.

Was the starter difficult to put back in after the header was installed?

[DSRE455]

Originally Posted by Nitebird

Was the starter difficult to put back in after the header was installed?

Right now its been a nightmare, both sides hit the floor, drive side hit the side of the subframe, these are dougs 1-7-8's D-ports, heads and block were milled quite a bit pistons .010 above deck, Heads are some Killer 327cfm kre D-ports by Dave at Sd, my ported T-2 Holley EFI
I'm fully aware of bolting them up then setting engine down but i need to dent a tube to. Set down. The passenger side. Same with driver side but its difficult if header collectors hit the floor with the. Engine static, you quite physically can not bolt the on in any fashion like they are for a different car so although i don't mid porta powering them its still a 700$ set of nice headers that should fit way better, lowering the back of the trans will cause other issues, so he called tribal tubes to give them a shot which will choke some power but you have to have exhaust!

[Nitebird]

Originally Posted by DSRE455

Right now its been a nightmare, both sides hit the floor, drive side hit the side of the subframe, these are dougs 1-7-8's D-ports, heads and block were milled quite a bit pistons .010 above deck, Heads are some Killer 327cfm kre D-ports by Dave at Sd, my ported T-2 Holley EFI
I'm fully aware of bolting them up then setting engine down but i need to dent a tube to. Set down. The passenger side. Same with driver side but its difficult if header collectors hit the floor with the. Engine static, you quite physically can not bolt the on in any fashion like they are for a different car so although i don't mid porta powering them its still a 700$ set of nice headers that should fit way better, lowering the back of the trans will cause other issues, so he called tribal tubes to give them a shot which will choke some power but you have to have exhaust!

I didnt have to dent my headers or do any changes to them using the method of installing them as I described above. I got the front of the car really high on jack stands so that I could get lots of room and removed the items as I described above in order to gain clearance for them also.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

The subframe flexes a lot... at the body mounts depending where you are supporting the vehicle load and the condition of the mounts themselves.
I like to put the rear stands on the axle and fronts inboard of the front wheels, relatively even front to back/car reasonably level, to simulate how the car will sit in it's normal on the ground stance.

Matching "F body engine mount brackets" on the engine?
------------------
"Here is a pic of the driver side engine mount....

Passenger side header pic...."

Where's the pics?