[6t7goat]

I have a 78 trans am with a fitech efi setup W fuel command center under the hood. The pump just died for the 2nd time so i have decided to put a new efi fuel tank in it. Can i use the existing steel lines or should i be running all new braided fuel lines and get rid of all the steel lines. My steel lines are in good shape and if i dont need all new lines it will save me a few bucks. I dont want to shortcut anything either. I haven’t seen a lot of plumbing info for EFI setups on the TA’s. Thanks for any advice.

[JLMounce]

More than likely the steel lines that you currently have are not large enough (specifically the return line) to flow the necessary amount of fuel required by the setup.

You will need at minimum a 3/8" supply and return line. Most of the return lines from the factory on these cars are actually more of a vapor return that is not designed to pass much actual fluid. Most of the time they are 5/16" and may crimp down smaller in certain places. It's not adequate for returning lots of fuel back to the pump. The net result is that the return line starts to build pressure in the line, which then increases fuel rail pressure as the pressure regulator is unable to cope, then you get an oscillating rich/lean condition that causes surging and stalling of the engine.

For long term use without the need to replace lines, going to a properly sized stainless steel hard line is preferred. That said, if the car is not used often, is not driven or stored in lots of inclement weather etc. you can certainly do EFI rated soft line.

This kit is cost effective, contains quality parts and is everything you need for the fuel system. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...rod/prd548.htm

I have been running that kit on my wife's chevelle now for several years and my Firebird has a piece meal kit of the same type that has been in-service without issue since 2015. Just know that a soft line system will not last as long ultimately as a proper stainless steel hard line system.

[6t7goat]

Great info thank you i had no idea about the return line causing issues. Will this fuel line pass tech inspection if i want to make a run down the 1/8th mile. The car has never been on the track but we have one opening up in town so i my have to see what the car will do.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by 6t7goat

Great info thank you i had no idea about the return line causing issues. Will this fuel line pass tech inspection if i want to make a run down the 1/8th mile. The car has never been on the track but we have one opening up in town so i my have to see what the car will do.

My car is teched to 11.50 with the pressure rated hose. This tech was done at Bandimere Speedway, which is an NHRA track. They don't necessarily have a reputation of being stringent with the rules, but also not over lax with them either.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by 6t7goat

Great info thank you i had no idea about the return line causing issues. Will this fuel line pass tech inspection if i want to make a run down the 1/8th mile. The car has never been on the track but we have one opening up in town so i my have to see what the car will do.

That's a hard question to answer. If one were to go by the book to answer that question it would have to be no. I haven't seen a recent addition of the NHRA rule book but if memory serves me, they don't like to see more than about 12 inches of rubber fuel line throughout the car.

That said, in most cases going through tech they probably don't care much on a typical 12 or 13 second street car rolling in and likely won't scrutinize a car like that too much. They'll just check a few basics, then limit you to 11.50 if you don't have a roll bar. Some of the faster cars they might take a closer look at. Just depends on the track and what kind of mood they are in.

I've been through tech where they checked lug nuts, battery, overflow bottle, opened up the trunk and the spare tire wells looking for nitrous, even had me put the car in gear and try to start it making sure I had a working neutral safety switch, lol. Then other times they don't even ask to open the hood. Just never know but I will say one thing, It's never been consistent.

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

even had me put the car in gear and try to start it making sure I had a working neutral safety switch, lol.

That's happened to me a few times. I just play dumb.


I don't know why's it's not working sir, I promise I'll get it fixed before next time. lol

[Schurkey]

It's crazy to use hose where metal or OEM-style hard-plastic tubing will suffice. Tubing has a longer service live, costs less, weighs less, and is less permeable than rubber hose. It costs MUCH less than Teflon/PTFE liner hose.

"Hose" should be kept to a minimum--only where needed to allow for engine shake, or to make connections to other components.

[FrankieT/A]

I used Inline Tube 1/2" stainless steel supply and 3/8 return. They are already pre bent and fit right where the original line was. I'm using a Tanks Inc. tank with a Walbro fuel pump and an FITech 1200 Power Adder (which I am about to sell), the point is I have a similar set up as what you are about to do.

[78w72]

Originally Posted by FrankieT/A

I used Inline Tube 1/2" stainless steel supply and 3/8 return. They are already pre bent and fit right where the original line was. I'm using a Tanks Inc. tank with a Walbro fuel pump and an FITech 1200 Power Adder (which I am about to sell), the point is I have a similar set up as what you are about to do.

& the 3/8 return works ok? i always hear the return has to be the same size as the feed line. going pre bent metal lines seems to be the better way & if a 3/8 return is ok that makes it even easier.

[Formulajones]

It depends on how far you are regulating it down, how big the pump is that is required to feed the HP you have etc...

If you are running a simple 500hp setup with a carb, and regulating it down to 6-7 psi, you can run a typical 255 LPH pump. In which case you can probably get away with a 3/8 return line. I still generally run a 1/2" return anyway because the cost is the same, and it leaves room to grow later. I tend to like running a bigger pump than required anyway to give some wiggle room that the formulas don't take into account like friction and G forces that affect fuel delivery. Plus most of the pump ratings are free flow anyway.

[FrankieT/A]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

It depends on how far you are regulating it down, how big the pump is that is required to feed the HP you have etc...

If you are running a simple 500hp setup with a carb, and regulating it down to 6-7 psi, you can run a typical 255 LPH pump. In which case you can probably get away with a 3/8 return line. I still generally run a 1/2" return anyway because the cost is the same, and it leaves room to grow later. I tend to like running a bigger pump than required anyway to give some wiggle room that the formulas don't take into account like friction and G forces that affect fuel delivery. Plus most of the pump ratings are free flow anyway.

I agree with a lot of what Jones is saying. But be careful, I put in a Walbro 340 LPH pump and that friggin' thing puts out 90 PSI of pressure dead headed. Lol

[Formula8]

I used a combination of 3/8 Copper nickel tubing and Earls Vaporguard hose.

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-Co...0482360&sr=8-3

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Formula8

I used a combination of 3/8 Copper nickel tubing and Earls Vaporguard hose.

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Line-Co...0482360&sr=8-3

I've never seen copper tubing used on a vehicle before. Why did you choose copper?

[Murf]

Originally Posted by JSchmitz

I've never seen copper tubing used on a vehicle before. Why did you choose copper?

It’s called NiCop, I believe. Most all the parts stores keep it. Very easy to work with. That’s it’s main advantage.

Murf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Murf

It’s called NiCop, I believe. Most all the parts stores keep it. Very easy to work with. That’s it’s main advantage.

Murf


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Ok. News to me. Advantage vs. AL, SS, or carbon steel? Copper would look kinda weird to me.

I ran 1/2" od AL supply and return lines many years ago. I'm converting to LS engine now. I am thinking about changing it out to SS. Anyone have pics of Inline Tube or other brand pre-made lines installed?

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by JSchmitz

Ok. News to me. Advantage vs. AL, SS, or carbon steel? Copper would look kinda weird to me.

I ran 1/2" od AL supply and return lines many years ago. I'm converting to LS engine now. I am thinking about changing it out to SS. Anyone have pics of Inline Tube or other brand pre-made lines installed?

Here's a picture of the 1/2" stainless lines I did on a 2nd gen Firebird. They simply run along the factory route so not much to see, even come with the spring wire wrap like factory. Most people looking at it wouldn't even notice it's 1/2" line.

[Tom Vaught]

Copper Lines would not be allowed on any SCCA type Race car at a club event.

Too soft and too easy to be damaged and a potential fire from the rupture of the line.

Tom V.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Copper Lines would not be allowed on any SCCA type Race car at a club event.

Too soft and too easy to be damaged and a potential fire from the rupture of the line.

Tom V.

That makes sense. This copper fuel line thing has me scratching my head. Engineering choice of materials 101.

[alsalp]

Originally Posted by Tom Vaught

Copper Lines would not be allowed on any SCCA type Race car at a club event.

Too soft and too easy to be damaged and a potential fire from the rupture of the line.

Tom V.

He said Copper-Nickel. Not copper. Big difference. OEMs use it

[Stuart]

The NiCopp or Cunifer brand tubing isn't pure copper, it's a nickel-copper alloy. It's relatively new in the US but has been used for years in Europe for brake lines as well as fuel lines, so it has the ability to handle high pressure. The big advantages over steel are it won't rust, and it's easy to bend and flare. It is DOT approved, if you're going racing I suspect it's probably OK but check with your sanctioning body.

edit: when I say 'relatively' new, it has been available in the US for probably 20 years now; it's just that it's been in use in Europe a lot longer than that. I believe it's OEM on Porsches as well as some other makes, so it's most likely OK for competition use.