[jimib]

I ordered a gasket kit from PY. They tell me the oil pan gasket does not need sealent.
Does anyone have reconmendations on wether or not to use sealent?

Thanks, Jim

[jimib]

I ordered a gasket kit from PY. They tell me the oil pan gasket does not need sealent.
Does anyone have reconmendations on wether or not to use sealent?

Thanks, Jim

[Chris C]

I used the cork gasket. It came in 3 different pieces. I've heard that rubber type gasket that goes along the back doesn't work very good. I used Silicon very lightly to help hold it in place and put it in the areas where the gasket ends met. Its been a year in use, no leaks what so ever.

Chris

[Jagtec1]

I glued the rear portion of the cork across the recess in the rear main cap with "The right Stuff", and let the pan sit on it over night to ensure proper placement. Then I use a light smear of the same sealer on both sides of the pan gasket all the way around....no leaks.

[Mr. P-Body]

I second the use of silicone on the lip seal (rear cap). Also, a dab in each corner. Nothing else.
If the ebngine is on a stand, turn it upside down and install it without anything further. If it's in the car, use the blue collars supplied with the set to keep it in place while you raise it up into postion. Too much sealer will cause both more headaches and more leaks than not enough.

[jamaca85]

i am a silicone junky, iuse it always everwhere. i hate leaks even the small ones. both sides of gasket oilpan and block, this way you will not have a single drip. ive done it to all my motors no leaks.

[68MeanVerdoroGreen]

I recently completed a complete 455 rebuild and only made one mistake. The mistake was using silicone on the rear of the gasket around the crankshaft. The silicon made it too slippery when installed and the rubber gasket slipped out of place. Created a major leak. Had my mechanic change it in the car (I'm not equipped to do it with out a lift) who advised to use permatex "High Tack gasket sealer". No runs, no drips, no problems. A $ 400.00 mistake.

Good Luck,

[Jagtec1]

To avoid the slippage of rear cork...simply "glue" the piece in place with a sealer like I mentioned earlier....let it set up overnight, then install pan. This way you have no concern of it "squishing out". I've only done the cork type, and I've heard the rubber ones are a PITA!!

[jimib]

For the rear main cap, PY supplied me with a rubber gasket with spikes on it.
The other 3 gaskets are a composite type material.
It seems to me the rubber gets no sealant and the composite should receive sealant??
If so, sounds like the majority says go with silicone.

[meanolegoat]

I use either sealer or a gasket, not both. Use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to hold the gasket to the pan. Clean all mating surfaces with laquer thinner prior to gasket mounting. A small amount of sealer (I use GMS) to gap the bridge between the rear rubber seal and cork. Also a dot underneath the rubber seal on the cap at the corners. No leaks, cause if it does I have to re-do for free (my labor)!!
"mean"

[Judge not]

In a past issue of High Performance Pontiac there is an article "panning for good seal" that discusses the pros and cons of the rear seal. The best choice is the cork gasket.Oil pan seal

[buwalda]

I believe the best 'fix' for the #5 rear cap seal is to discard it. In it's place use a piece of 1/8" thick aluminium, about 1/2" wide. You could use steel, but it is harder to work with; bend the strip to fit over the rear cap & trim the ends so that they just touch the block rail. If you install the oil pan, the gap without a seal over #5 is about 1/8", so this piece is a perfect fit in that gap. Now the pan can be fitted with modern silicon at all points, for a leak free seal, rather than cork that dates back to Henry Ford. You could also not bother with any type of seal or spacer over the #5 cap & just use a thick bead of silicon. However, if the engine has alot of blowby, this thick bead presents a larger surface area for the blow by to push against, & it may flex & leak, but generally it should work ok.