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#1
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after i have my machine work done i was going to put the engine together. the thing is i have no special tools for this other than the normal set of tools. should i just pay to have it put together or what? also if i do put it together myself what special tools do i need? the shop i called said the would bore, hone, clean, install cam bearings, freeze plugs,recondition rods, turn the crank, and put it together for $650. is this a good price for that? thanks.
chris |
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#2
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after i have my machine work done i was going to put the engine together. the thing is i have no special tools for this other than the normal set of tools. should i just pay to have it put together or what? also if i do put it together myself what special tools do i need? the shop i called said the would bore, hone, clean, install cam bearings, freeze plugs,recondition rods, turn the crank, and put it together for $650. is this a good price for that? thanks.
chris |
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#3
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If you have never put an engine together, do not try it without experienced help. 650 sounds cheap to me. If you do put it together, you will need a ring compressor and a torque wrench. Good luck.
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fasteddy |
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#4
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I was quoted and paid $150 to have the block powder blasted, bored, honed, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. This is my first true rebuild. I have completely disassembled 1 other engine and partially bolted a Chevy engine back together. It's not hard, just take your time and seek advice from experienced people when you have a question. It would be a good idea to get a good engine rebuild book. I have done a lot of reading research on the net, too. LOTS of valuable info here on PY!!! Good luck! Mine should be done and in in another 2 weeks!!! 455 bored .060 over with Lunati cam, 6x-4 heads.....should be around 480-500hp.
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69 Firebird, .060 over 455, UD solid roller 254/262 @ .050, Scorpion rockers, home ported 6X-4 heads, Holley 850 DP (bone stock), Holley SD intake, with Summit 3 inch x-pipe and goerlich Xlerator mufflers. 12.27 @ 115mph. 02 Midnight Blue LS1 Ram Air Trans Am WS6 (440 rwhp) http://firstgenfirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=642 |
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#5
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Oh, only "special tools" you will need are a torque wrench, a micrometer, feeler guages, and a ring compressor. All relatively inexpensive at parts or hardware stores.
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69 Firebird, .060 over 455, UD solid roller 254/262 @ .050, Scorpion rockers, home ported 6X-4 heads, Holley 850 DP (bone stock), Holley SD intake, with Summit 3 inch x-pipe and goerlich Xlerator mufflers. 12.27 @ 115mph. 02 Midnight Blue LS1 Ram Air Trans Am WS6 (440 rwhp) http://firstgenfirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=642 |
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#6
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For $650.00 I would let them do the work. If something goes wrong you might be able to take it back. If you put it together and it lays an egg you have no recourse.
Goatman just had a really nice motor **** the bed while on the Dyno. This motor was built by a pro. Anything can happen to anybody at anytime. See if the shop will let you work with them. They have the tools and experience. You can do all their grunt work and learn.
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WWW.PatriotGuard.org Standing for those that stood for us. Only two defining forces have ever offered their life for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One for your soul; the other for your freedom |
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#7
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There's an EXCELLENT idea!!!
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69 Firebird, .060 over 455, UD solid roller 254/262 @ .050, Scorpion rockers, home ported 6X-4 heads, Holley 850 DP (bone stock), Holley SD intake, with Summit 3 inch x-pipe and goerlich Xlerator mufflers. 12.27 @ 115mph. 02 Midnight Blue LS1 Ram Air Trans Am WS6 (440 rwhp) http://firstgenfirebird.org/show/closeup.mv?CarID=642 |
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#8
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thanks for the replys. i will ask to see if they will let me do that. i have feeler gauges and can rent a ring compresor at autozone. the only thing is that i want it balanced but dont have a flywheel or balancer yet and wont have the money to get them until after i have the machine work done and if they put it together then they have to take it apart to balance it.
if i do this myself what is a good book to buy on how do rebuild it? again thanks guys. chris |
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#9
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Most shops will offer a Warrenty if they assemble your engine! Spend the money! If it blows you have a warrenty. (This excludes Racing and flogging the engine) [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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Try calling CRUSHPROOF! 512-386-9889 |
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#10
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Chris. Do you want to put it together? Do you have the time to put it together? Do you have the patience to find out how to do it right? Do you have a friend or two with some experience that might could help? Are you willing to possibly risk it all? I'm betting that all the guys on this forum that build motors had to start with their 1st one. Go for it! David
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core.
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#11
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OK I'm gonna get heat for this. Go to the bookstore and get a copy of "How to rebuild your smallblock chevy" It covers...well...Chevies but it's an excellent step by step book about building motors. The shortblock (crank, rods, pistons) is about the same with all of them. That book got me off to a pretty good start twenty or so years ago. Plus you have a great reference right here. Spend the $$ and get a name brand torque wrench and you're in business.
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![]() http://motorhead.iwarp.com "Not gonna happen, Slim the Slender Gender Bender." The Book of Misus. Chapter 4, verse 18 |
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#12
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i guess i will risk it all and build it myself. i am going to call tomorrow and get another price for the work without the assembly. is there any other books that would help? i figured the chevy book would work fine as there are no books on pont i can get at the store. thanks
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#13
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Good for you Chris. Just don't take ANYTHING for granted. Make sure you check everything i.e. rods, mains, crank end play, ring gap, ect. Anything that requires clearance must be checked carefully. You have as much help here on PY by some that are much better wrenches than I, that will give you all the help you need. Good luck.
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www.pontiacfever.freehomepage.com |
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#14
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Some Hints: When you set your ring gap make sure you set it for the type of pistons your using. The Keith Black pistons have the ring lands higher up on the piston. If you use these pistons instead of TRW go to their web site for instructions.
When torquing down the mains and heads work from the inside towards the outside of the block. I will torque in three steps. Starting at 25#'s then 50#'s then the final setting. I use 30 wgt oil on threads of all the bolts I'm torquing. Anyone else have any info they want to pass on?
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WWW.PatriotGuard.org Standing for those that stood for us. Only two defining forces have ever offered their life for you, Jesus Christ and the American G.I. One for your soul; the other for your freedom |
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#15
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5 Stars for Chris.
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frittering and wasting the hours in an off hand way.... 1969 GTO, 455ci, 230/236 Pontiac Dude's "Butcher Special" Comp hyd roller cam with Crower HIPPO solid roller lifters, Q-jet, Edelbrock P4B-QJ, Doug's headers, ported 6X-8 (97cc) heads, TKO600, 3.73 geared Eaton Tru-Trac 8.5", hydroboost, rear disc brakes......and my greatest mechanical feat....a new heater core.
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#16
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thanks again guys for the help and i will triple check all clearances just to be sure. if i have any question (i know i will
) i will make sure and ask.chris |
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#17
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i'm here with ya, buddy. got my 400 shortblock for $60. gonna have the machine shop check it out for me, and then if it's good rebuild it.
i'll have to see what it costs here. |
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#18
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I'm in about the same situation as you Chris. I'm working on my first motor rebuild. It's fairly simple taking it apart, but gets a little more complicated putting it back together! I might take Bud's advice and see if I can work with mechanics in the shop. I will also try and find a book to read up on this stuff. I would like to do the work myself, but am a little concerned about the lack of experience. We'll see what happens. It sure is nice to have so much help here on PY! Good luck Chris and Tim on your projects!
- Joel
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Whoever said you can't buy happiness never bought car parts! |
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#19
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Chris, if you want good books, then get the best ones out there. Contact Reher & Morrison Racing Engines. I have the text books that they use in there engine building school. There are two books, lower engine assembly, and upper engine assembly, and will cost you approx $100.00 for the pair of books. These engine books are the BEST. Buy them for your library if you are serious about this. If you got more money you can go to the engine building school that they have and get these books as part of the price to go to the school. If you really want to build your own engines, then these books are a must. http://www.rehermorrison.com
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"Three may keep a secret, if two are dead" ~ Benjamin Franklin ~ |
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#20
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be sure to center the timing cover/front seal to the Harmonic Balancer BEFORE tightening the Timing Cover bolts. Do those front oilpan/timing cover bolts after tightening the TimingCover/Block bolts.
Have a nice build. H.I. Stud
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95 Towncar that needs more TQ. Sold 2023: 12.24/111.6MPH/1.76 60'/28"/3.54:1/SP-TH400/469 R96A/236-244-112LC/1050&TorkerI//3850Lbs//15MPG/89oct Sold 2003: 12.00/112MPH/1.61 60'/26"x3.31:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Q-Jet-Torker/3650Lbs//18MPG 94oct Sold 1994: 11.00/123MPH/1.50 60'/29.5"x4.10:1/10"/469 #48/245-255-110LSA/Dual600s-Wenzler/3250Lbs//94oct |
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