Pontiac - Race The next Level

          
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  #21  
Old 08-05-2003, 01:14 PM
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LMAO at that one Gonzo!

Good advice!!!

"Nothing Beats an Ol' Goat..."


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  #22  
Old 08-05-2003, 07:37 PM
larry davis larry davis is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GONZO:
Don't talk to Bruce Fulper
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's "priceless"!!!



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  #23  
Old 08-05-2003, 07:49 PM
ifixit4me ifixit4me is offline
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I'm following this thread with quite a bit of interest as I am about to tackle the same thing with the 400 in my 65. Some good advise here! I will print this out and hang it on the wall in my shop when the time comes to pull my motor!

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  #24  
Old 08-06-2003, 07:34 AM
Firebird455 Firebird455 is offline
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I was plannin on doing the same thing Hillbilly. For all us 1st timers out there, lets start a list of ways we can contact each other if we have any questions.
-Aaron
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  #25  
Old 08-07-2003, 11:24 AM
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2 small adds
a little extra silicone where the oil pan meets the bottom corners of the timing cover and the rear main cap always worked well for me and something that someone else asked was how to keep the waterpump bolt holes from rusting, (Stainless Steel bolts). That's what all of the boat guys use and they are wet all the time.

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  #26  
Old 08-07-2003, 04:45 PM
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Here's another- How many have done this wrong in the past? Forgetting to put silicone in the anti-rotation holes when installing a neopreme real seal? and yes, dont forget to put silicone on the parting line too.
Steve www.pontiacheaven.org



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  #27  
Old 08-08-2003, 10:14 PM
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Anti-Rotation holes? Parting line? Got any pics?

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  #28  
Old 08-08-2003, 11:26 PM
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Chris, There will be a picture/diagram included when you buy your rear seal. Buy the BOP version. They are good people and it's a good product. I run one in the GTO and in the Fueler. Steve www.pontiacheaven.org



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  #29  
Old 08-11-2003, 09:38 AM
Firebird455 Firebird455 is offline
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Hey, for all those building their own engines, go to http://www.pontiacwarriors.com Click on the Buildup Info link on the left side and they have a helpful checklist. Quote "This checklist is specific to Pontiac engines, is in chronological order and is very complete. If you plan on building your own Pontiac engine this list is simply indispensable."

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  #30  
Old 08-18-2003, 09:05 PM
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I wanted to say that I just took my Mellings M54DS pump apart tonight and it had a big chunk of metal in it that came off the hole where the pickup is installed. Well ok it was big enough to easily be felt b/t my hardened finger tips! Kinda sucks these people can't chk their own crap! Washed it all out and stuck it back together.

Just got the BOP rear main seal as well. No rope fer me!

Nice tips. Keep em coming!

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  #31  
Old 06-08-2004, 08:58 AM
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Man I saw this post from a long time ago searching for something else. Since I just got it started made me smile... Thanks to all you guys who left tips! You rock!

Hey Firebird455, ever get it running?

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  #32  
Old 06-08-2004, 10:32 AM
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Torque specs
Mains 1-4 95 lbs ft
Main 5 120 lbs ft
Heads 95 lbs ft torque from center workinmg out
9 5 1 3 7
0 6 2 4 8 &lt;-torque sequence
Just as everyone else said just take your time and make sure it stays clean.

Oooops. One more-rods 45-55 lbs ft

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  #33  
Old 06-08-2004, 10:35 AM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by GONZO:
Don't talk to Bruce Fulper

RAIV Don't leave home without it.
&lt;a href="http://www.kingofmusclecars.com/" target="_blank"&gt;http://www.kingofmusclecars.com/&lt;/a&gt; <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>Why is everyone against Bruce Fulper? Just curious.

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  #34  
Old 06-08-2004, 11:56 AM
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Pontiac distributors spin counterclockwise.

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  #35  
Old 06-08-2004, 12:10 PM
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 73LeMans:
Pontiac distributors spin counterclockwise. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>YEEEESSSSS!!!! I learned that one the hard way.

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  #36  
Old 06-08-2004, 07:21 PM
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I taught myself to build my first motor by a shop manual when I was a teenager. The reproduced ones from PY are the best.

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  #37  
Old 06-08-2004, 07:46 PM
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it would probably be a good thing to remind them to prime the oil preasure before installing the distributer, Spotts sells a killer tool for this, or you can go to autozone and rent one
also might want to check the rear main clearances like we were talking in the other post.
the spray on gasket is a nice way to keep some of the gaskets neet but shouldnt be used on all of them
watch the oil preasure gage on start up if it starts to drop to fast shut it off quick! to save parts
Shim starter on engine stand its much easyer

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  #38  
Old 06-08-2004, 07:56 PM
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I would buy borrow or rent a few tools you need the proper tools make it easyer and prevent problems

Morroso engine brushes $20.00

small Dial caliper 30.00

depth gage 30.00

tourque Wrench Good one! and dont leave it laying around set at 90 or 100 lbs always set it back to zero when your done

tiny blow gun

set of taps chase all threads before the machining is done

oil primer tool, spotts, or auto zone

ring compressor, its worth the 30.00 to get an aluminum one exact to your bore size! the wratcheting ones work but they are a pain,

protector caps for the rod bolts very important not to nick or scratch the crank, they sell little rubber buuts to slip over the rod bolts to keep it from scrathing the crank

scotch brite super fine to clean the dearing surface

Blue shop towels 2 rolls they clean good without leaving a ton of fuzzys on the parts

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  #39  
Old 06-09-2004, 02:39 AM
judge_jury_executioner_69 judge_jury_executioner_69 is offline
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heres a usefull site

http://www.wallaceracing.com/techarticles.htm

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