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#1
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I am getting ready to assemble the engine to my Ram Air III Judge. Does anyone recall which paint DCG recommended for the engine? I decided not to go the epoxy route and just use regular paint. I would appreciate any other recommendations (should I paint the water pump, timing cover, oil pan, etc. separate from the block?, with all bolts in place?, should I use a ceramic/other primer?, etc.).
Is spraying with a gun that much better than spraying with a can? For the paint used in last years DCG episode, was mixing (i.e. hardener) required? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2
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Try this site for paint selections http://fiedlerh.home.att.net/enginecolor.htm
__________________
1969 Ram Air III 4-speed 1963 Lemans Convert #'s Matching 326 V-8 1949 Pontiac Silver Streak |
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#3
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Everyone has their own ideas about how to paint an engine. Some people
like to spray them with epoxy out of a gun. This method looks pretty but it does not look correct.....too shiny and too slick...the grain in the cast iron is filled. Also, impossible to do touch-ups. Aerosol paint is the only way to go on engines in my opinion. You don't need to prime, but metal most be perfectly clean and devoid of rust grease, dirt etc. On the high heat areas of the exhaust runners and the crossover on the intake, brush Eastwood stainless steel coating over the bare iron in those areas before painting any blue. Brush on two coats and let dry several days between coats on the Eastwood. Three coats would be even better. After the Eastwood on the high heat areas dries, paint the engine with plastikote number 227 pontiac blue engine paint. The engine should be painted completely assembled minus the intake manifold. Be sure to paint the top area of the heads where the manifold sits. I always paint the entire area there....gasket sealing will not be affected. Be sure to flip the intake upside down and paint the bottom side before painting the top. On the areas with Eastwood on them, barely mist the engine paint over the Eastwood to give it a blue tint. Make sure you put on enough paint to avoid rust later, but don't get carried away or the paint will bubble on you in a year or two. On the exhaust manifolds do not use Eastwood Stainless steel coating....It won't hold up long term and you can't repaint without removing the manifolds. On the manifolds, have them Jet hot coated(good to 2000 degrees) You will need to touch up the high heat areas on the heads every three or four years if you actually drive the car some...That is easy to do on the car in five minutes by brushing on more Eastwood. Also, when painting the engine, stick on some junk valve covers to keep the paint off the valve train...then put your show covers on when you get done. On all bolts that aren't painted, go with stainless steel bolts to avoid rust and deterioration of cad plating.I am sure others have different ideas about what I have said, but if you want to win at shows my method works. |
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#4
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I have alot of luck with the "Plastickote" high temp (2000 Degrees)header paint. The key is to bake it on before you use the color cote.
I did my intake with it using about three heavy coats and baking at 400 degrees for an hour. I then used high temp engine paint. It should do the job. I am useing aluminum heads so I don't have to worry about those areas. |
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#5
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Thank you very much for the information. I have never done this before and those are the exact comments I was hoping to receive. I really appreciate it! Has anyone ever used Duplicolor?
Thanks again. |
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#6
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I have used duplicolor in the past, but the plastikote seems to go on
a liitle smoother....both are satisfactory. If you are not used to using aerosol cans, you may want to practice a little first. The trick is knowing how wet a coat to put on to get the paint to flow out without creating runs. |
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#7
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Use the plasticote paint out of a spray bomb as said but the trick is to have a lit butane torch going while you paint, heat up the engine just a bit and then flow the paint from the spray can, going back over it as it lays on the engine.. I painted mine in 1994 and drive her like a raped ape and the engine looks as new.. every now and then you spray a bit in a container and use a paint brush to touch up on the center part of the heads because of the heat discoloration and on the intake.. if you want to see check out on www.ultimategto.com and search out engines in Orbit Orange Judges. I have a couple in there Good luck
Pete |
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#8
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If you want to do it like the factory did it, put the chrome valve covers on and make a cover for them, the factory used a "cap" over the chrome valve covers and then painted the engine. The lip of the valve covers was oversprayed engine color.
__________________
Survivors, frameoffs etc http://community.webshots.com/user/firstgenaddict 68 GTO HO 4spd Alpine Blue over Parchment headrest (paused while I restore other people's cars) 70 Judge Conv. RAIII 4spd 4.33 I painted for a friend. http://rides.webshots.com/album/187328041oxAXRI |
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#9
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GREAT INFO GUYS, im in the process of repainting my engine.
Were the intake bolts painted or plain, ALSO on a concours style restoration, is stainless frowned upon due to its not original? i heard YES in brakelines, so wouldnt this be true for intake bolts & such???? |
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