[Skip Fix]

OK guys we've had discussions on the Milodon road race pan having issues on hard braking I think these will help us figure it out. There are three trap doors , two keeping oil from going forward and one keeping in from going left, so oil stays to the right with the pump.

The pan has a welded in baffle(I cut out) that is tight at the front and sides so drain back can only get in the sump at the right rear by the pump and in the cavity in front of the pump compartment. Nothing can drain back on the left or in the front.

So accelerating and hard right turns gives good oil to the pump and pick up. Hard braking and anything up front will not drain back by the pump as it is sliding forward on the baffle, or draining forward at an angle then onto the baffle . Oil in the rear by the pump can spil over the ledge that the trap door is on also. So the only oil filling the pump area on braking is draining down the right rear corner. Any in the large front part will go forward and not make it's way to the pump.

[Skip Fix]

Here is a Canton F body road race pan. The baffle is not tight at the front and has drainage holes on the side.Yes it moves the pickup more to the middle. But the baffles move the oil on acceleration to the middle, and on braking toward the pickup.
There are 3 trap doors on the areas I added the yellow lines to on the baffling.

It's sump depth at the pump is 7". 10" wide x 10.75 long. The baffles stand 2" from the floor.


The Canton GTO road race is similar in design but is 7 7/8" deep at the pump. 10" widex 8.125 long. The baffle is 3" above the floor.


The Milodon is 7.75 deep at the pump. 10" widex 10" long. The Baffle is 2.75 off the floor.

[Skip Fix]

To improve the Milodon I think adding additional baffleing directing the oil toward the right rear on accleration, possibly with another trap door to keep it there in right turns. Adding drainage holes on either side of the main baffle and extending it all the way over the rest of the sump.

For those of you that like the 3 prong rear pan seal this picture shows it is too long and can not lay flat. That with teh fact one side is cirved is why it wants to squirm loose.

[screamingchief]

It's pretty obvious the milodon roadrace pan does'nt have a very big "pocket" trapped around it,that baffle needs to be moved forward to that next bead in the pan at the minimum and this would increase the reservoir the pump has under extreme conditions.

And of course the upper baffle needs to fit tight against the tops of the trap doors so no slosh can climb over the trap doors under extreme conditions.

I'll show how I'd fix the milodon,will take a couple of minutes.

Pretty cool topic Skip!
Bret.

[KS circutguy]

[Tom Vaught]

Great pics Skip!

Tom V.

[screamingchief]

Here's how I'd probably modify the milodon (see pic).

The heavy black lines would indicate where the new baffles would be placed,yellow arrows indicate location and direction of trap doors,the red line would be the outline of the upper baffle.

I'd move the main fore/aft baffle forward a bit (mid-pan) to enlarge the main oil-pump reservoir somewhat,then I'd use two smaller baffles to stop side slosh away from the pump.

The smaller drivers side pocket has the abillity to feed the main oil-pump pocket under braking by the small "slanted" trap door towards front of the both pockets,if the level on the pump side of that baffle drops,the oil on the drivers side should overcome the trap door and feed into the pump side.

And with the tighter opening in the upper baffle along the top of the trap doors,slosh over the top of the trap doors should be eliminated almost completely.

I'm sure a better layout exists,nothings perfect,but this would be a pretty easy to do "fix" (pardon the pun...) for the milodon pan,and should improve that pans performance over the current baffle/trap door design.

The canton pans are much more well thought out than the milodons,that is pretty obvious here.

I dunno,this should be a contest,let's see who can come up with the best re-design of the milodon road-race pan without it being a total rip-off of the canton road-race pan.

[Skip Fix]

Just remember the fewer cuts of existing welds/baffles the fewer chances for cutting through the pan! It takes a Dremel with a cut off wheel to fit in there, too tight for regular cutoff wheels.

[slowbird]

I hate those 3 prong rear gasket!! Why can't pan manufactures make their pans for the other rubber gasket (what is it 4 or 5 prong?)?

[Skip Fix]

that three prong leaked in the car, we didn't dyno it. So had to jack up the motor, a little, drop the pan and sneak a "little gorilla" snot in to fix it.
I convert them to 5 prongs with the Dremel.

[Larry Navarro]

.....or do a search for my sure-fire method of using the cork gasket which will eliminate pan leaks for good.
MINIMAL "gorilla snot" too.

[goquick]

That is what I discovered too Skip. And just as my complaints on headers, the oil pan industry needs to catch up to Pontiac tech. I know of no one who has been able to have a lek proof 3 prong rear seal.

[Skip Fix]

I could maybe see the 3 prong working if it was the correct length so it wouldn't bunch up AND it was flat on both sides.

[goquick]

Really, the oil pan industry has only wanted to do chevy pans. Look at the diferent stlyes and applications you can easily get for a sbc. And cheap too. Even the Ford guys have had a tough time getting different styles, although they have better choices than us.

[younggto]

I put a Canton road race pan on my 67 GTO but I decided to weld up the holes for the three finger seal to try and prevent any seepage when I put on the cork seal. -Jesse

[turbogta]

Skip,
Good topic and pictures.
I have a question about the baffles/trap doors. The longer sump Canton pan has a 7 inch depth. The GTO version (shorter sump pan) is 8 inches deep. The tray is tack welded to the top of the 2 inch tall baffles, right? So how tall are the baffles in the 8 inch deep pan since they sit 1 inch lower in the pan ? If they are the same height then the tray will have to drop down as well so there would be no gap between the baffles and tray?
The reason I want to know is because I want to buy the longer sump pan and cut it to add another 1 inch of depth same as GTO pan.

[Skip Fix]

Turbogta the trap doors are the same height on the GTO pan just the baffle they are on is 1" taller where the pan bolts to it. Canton used Allen head screw and clip on nuts(like body panels) to bolt the tray to the baffles,they aren't welded. Teh baffles are welded to the sump and each other.

I'm wondering if it would be easier to start with the GTO pan and just extend the sump and the direction baffle over dropping the F body sump 1" and building up the baffles 1". I've had them side by side pondering that for awhile.

In looking harder at the Milodon I don't think even my flexible Dremel cutoff wheel can take out the existing baffling so this is the new additional baffles and trap doors. And a new tray on top-probably an extra Canton on modified. I can't just retire it!

[younggto]

One thing I was not happy with was the sump for the oil pump in my GTO. I confirmed the height and part number with Canton. The sump from Canton sat too high off of the bottom of the pan, so I sectioned in about a half-inch of sheetmetal into the sump to obtain the correct clearance. Other than that it seems to be great. -Jesse

[turbogta]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Turbogta the trap doors are the same height on the GTO pan just the baffle they are on is 1" taller where the pan bolts to it. Canton used Allen head screw and clip on nuts(like body panels) to bolt the tray to the baffles,they aren't welded. Teh baffles are welded to the sump and each other.

I'm wondering if it would be easier to start with the GTO pan and just extend the sump and the direction baffle over dropping the F body sump 1" and building up the baffles 1". I've had them side by side pondering that for awhile.

In looking harder at the Milodon I don't think even my flexible Dremel cutoff wheel can take out the existing baffling so this is the new additional baffles and trap doors. And a new tray on top-probably an extra Canton on modified. I can't just retire it!

Skip,
Sorry for the terminology screw up as I understand it now the baffle is where the trap doors are hinged to. I modified my previous post.
The reason that I was asking you about the height of the baffles is that I was debating which pan to modify. I was hoping that the GTO pan had taller baffles so that I could just modify it as you stated, but if they were the same height than it might have been easier just to ad a band in the middle to the Trans AM pan. Good news.
Thanks

[uneasyrider]

WOW! Cool post! I'm glad I got that Canton from Les!!! THANKS AGAIN LES!! THAT SAVED ME SOME CASH AND LOOKS LIKE IT MIGHT SAVE EVEN MORE!! There are some deals to be found on here ALONG WITH fair honest brokers. I'm adding an accumulator too for added safety on my rig but I'm sure glad I got a good pan too.