Pontiac - Street No question too basic here!

          
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  #21  
Old 12-06-2007, 07:11 AM
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68WarDog 68WarDog is offline
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Oil leaks can occur from a number of sources,but starting from the top,run your finger (1) Back of valley pan and around base of dizzy(2) Both valve covers,as oil can drip down and be slung anywhere (3)Check around oil sending unit,making sure filter is properly seated(4)Bottom of timing chain cover,at corner(s) where it contacts the front of the pan,and around oil pan/rear pan gasket,(5)and probably and most common, the infamous REAR MAIN SEAL.
Good luck,you'll get it.

P.S. HP? 315-330, b my guess.

  #22  
Old 12-06-2007, 08:28 AM
smagnotti smagnotti is offline
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Your not out of the wood yet!You still need to see if you have the right valve springs for that cam, as with that cams lift and stock installed hight valve springs the bottom of the spring retainer could very well be smaking the valve seal on the top of the guide at max lift.

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  #23  
Old 12-07-2007, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeF
I ran 280H before. I had stalling problems with it untill I installed 3000rpm converter. You will not get this cam to idle in gear with the stock converter.
I ran the 280H in a 9.5:1 400 and it never stalled unless the choke was disconnected. And I ran it with a stock converter for the first two years? After making the changes to the Qjet as per Cliff Ruggles book, It could idle to a rock crawler rpm!!

It should be noted that my car is possessed and every time I go near it, I end up bleeding...lol

  #24  
Old 12-08-2007, 09:34 PM
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I'm running the same set-up in my Bird, 9.6:1, Rhoads, 1.65s and it shakes the crap out of the motor. Write up said it was a choppy idle and it was right. Hard to set up with the Rhoads, either idles good cold or hot but nothing in between. A cold tune results in a high hot idle and a hot tune won't idle cold. I also have a 3k converter. Think it would be a lot more consistent without the Rhoads. Because of the choppy idle I figure the vacuum causing a sort of issues with the distributor vacuum advance which also accounts for the crappy idle.

  #25  
Old 12-08-2007, 09:46 PM
Will Will is offline
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Play400, with all due respect your carb and/or distributor need tuning. The 280 magnum with Rhoads should be very reasonable in a 400.

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  #26  
Old 12-09-2007, 12:45 AM
SergeF SergeF is offline
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I ran the 280H in a 9.5:1 400 and it never stalled unless the choke was disconnected. And I ran it with a stock converter for the first two years? After making the changes to the Qjet as per Cliff Ruggles book, It could idle to a rock crawler rpm!!

It should be noted that my car is possessed and every time I go near it, I end up bleeding...lol

Pablo, what choke has to do with this? Sounds to me that it idled 1600 in park and about 900 in drive with your set up.

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  #27  
Old 12-09-2007, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SergeF
I ran the 280H in a 9.5:1 400 and it never stalled unless the choke was disconnected. And I ran it with a stock converter for the first two years? After making the changes to the Qjet as per Cliff Ruggles book, It could idle to a rock crawler rpm!!

It should be noted that my car is possessed and every time I go near it, I end up bleeding...lol

Pablo, what choke has to do with this? Sounds to me that it idled 1600 in park and about 900 in drive with your set up.

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No, in park it was 950 and in gear 650.

  #28  
Old 12-13-2007, 04:59 AM
doubleClutch doubleClutch is offline
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Thanks again for all the help. I have about $2000 more to spend on the build. I have a couple more questions before I complete the build. Sorry again if any these questions are complete noob questions, this is my first pontiac build.

1. My first concern is coil binding, so I was thinking about the 68405-16 springs. Do these require head work, or do they fit in the stock spot, and will they be sufficeint for the cam. Head work for springs was quoted at around $800 so that would set me back.

2. Next, what is the cheapest way to raise compression?
If I have the 77 400 with 6x heads (103cc?), so I have about 7.5 compression right now right? I assuming milling the heads is the cheapest way to raise compression. I would like 9-9.5. What is the most I can safely mill the heads, and how much compression will it place me at.

3. Finally my car only revs to 5000, wont the 3000 torque converter only limit my power band to 2000 rpms? Should I get a 2500 converter? Also I would like to use 235 BFG drag radials since Im stuck with 7 inch rims. Atlest until I have a lot more money to get big rims and tires. With that converter will there be excessive wheel spin?

4. Finally I know this block can only hold around 400hp. Will this combo get me to 350rhwp, and high 12 quarters?

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