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#1
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Hey guys
I recently purchased a new 455, for my 78 trans am. The engine came with an electric water pump already installed on the engine, so I think im going to try and run it considering it is already installed, which also means i need to run electric fans. My question is, what is the best place to pull power from to support both the fan and the pump. The fuse block is original and I just get confused looking at that and dont know where to start, so maybe you guys can help me out. I know you can get controllers to run the fans, but is there also something like this for the water pump? Thanks Mike |
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#2
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Personally, I would run the ans and pump on seperate circuits, pump all the time and fans on a temp switch. I would run the pump on a relay triggered by a key on hot and a fuse that can be easily checked. The fans, the same but run the power to the relay through the temp switch. So, key on hot to temp witch, from switch to relay, relay from battery power to fans. And again, make the fuse easily accessible.
My two cents, Rob
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If it don't burn gas, eject brass, or have a nice I'm not interested.65 Star Chief 65 Skylark Conv 66 Fairlane 289 67 Galaxie 390 69 Cougar XR-7 428 69 Javelin 343 SST 73 Ranchero 429SCJ |
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#3
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For the main power for the fans, etc. you should tap into the battery feed circuit under the hood, i.e. the point where the alternator output joins with the battery feed to the firewall bulkhead connector. The bulkhead connector was not designed to pass the hi currents required by the fans.
Possibly add a junction block to that splice point, a good choice is an aftermarket block with fuses and relays rather than a piecemeal setup. they are more $$ tho. George
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#4
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Good point George. Keeping as much current under the hood and NOT in the cabin is a valid statement. I have, in past years, used small relay boxes from salvage yard cars to gain a good clean looking box that's easy to work with. They aren't very much and as you point out does not have a patchwork look. The other advantage to them is that you can get a factory wiring schematic that you can keep in your documentation so you have a record of what you did.
Depending on which alternator you are running, run-hot line would be a good one to power a relay for the pump. It only has power supplied while the car is running. This is the line you would normally run to an electric choke. But make sure this line is for a relay only, not to run the pump. Running from this line would make it so that your water pump isn't running if you're sitting there with the key on listening to the radio or working on something else.
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If it don't burn gas, eject brass, or have a nice I'm not interested.65 Star Chief 65 Skylark Conv 66 Fairlane 289 67 Galaxie 390 69 Cougar XR-7 428 69 Javelin 343 SST 73 Ranchero 429SCJ |
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#5
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Yup, relay is a must, and underhood power is the way to go. I use the horn relay for feed power to a relay on a simple project, easy to get to.
These are the relay sockets I use, they interlock, makes it neat & easy to gang a few together: http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...Y%20CONNECTOR/ Hey regamble, any pics of the fairlane & galaxy in your sig? .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#6
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I'm in the process of moving shops from one town to another so the Galaxie, Fairlane, Javelin, Bronco, and Cougar are in storage. I'll post some pics next time I'm out there or finally get them moved to the new place.
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If it don't burn gas, eject brass, or have a nice I'm not interested.65 Star Chief 65 Skylark Conv 66 Fairlane 289 67 Galaxie 390 69 Cougar XR-7 428 69 Javelin 343 SST 73 Ranchero 429SCJ |
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#7
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Quote:
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#8
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Hey, Thanks for all the reply's
I was planning on moving the battery to the trunk, does that create any issues with the wiring, and would using switches for both the fan and the water pump instead of using thermostats make it any easier. And if i ran both off switches, is there anyway to wire them so that if the car was off, i could keep either running...lets between runs at the track? Thanks Mike |
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#9
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I would recommend calling Mark at madelectrical. www.madelectrical.com is the website. The site is a bit out of date as far as prices, but the pbone number there is still good. He is extremely knowledgable about this stuff. I just bought a kit from him last night, and learned a lot in the process. Getting ahold of him can be an issue I have heard, but I got through on the second try. I bought the new system with a trunk mount setup. Take a look at the website. He includes a terminal that you can install in the engine compartment wired to the battery that you can use for a tap point for all the stuff you need.
Russ |
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#10
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Hey Guys
Thanks Russ, for that link, i checked out there site and will try and call this week sometime. But there battery relocation kit alone answers a couple questions. i will keep all posted, and let you know what i end up doing Thanks Mike |
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