[RR67GTO]

Greetings friends I'm hoeing I can get some advise. My Maytag electric range lost all power this last evening. Model # CRE95308CW. I noticed the oven light had burnt out, so I decided to change the bulb. The cover to the bulb was to tight to loosen so I removed two screws that held the light socket to the inside of the oven. When I moved the compete socket to get a grip on the bulb I saw a spark and thats when I noticed the digital display also went out. I checked and the breaker to the range tripped so I left it off and replaced the bulb. Once the bulb secure and cover to the bulb replaced I turned the breaker on again. I have no power at all to the range now. Before trying tho change the bulb everything else was working. I removed the back to see if any wires were loose or burnt. I didn't see or smell anything. The plug is tight at the wall as well as to the range. I checked the connections of the cord inside the box on the range and everything looks nice and new. My range does not lists as having any fuses in the owners manual. The manual says that Canadian ranges have fuses and where to locate them to check. I don't have the fuse box on mine. Now, in a year I'm going to remodel the kitchen. SO, I really don't want to just buy a new range right now and have to replace it again later when I know how the cabinets are going to fit the kitchen. At the same time this unit is about 12 years old, and I'm not excited to throw a bunch of hundred dollar bills into it for a years worth of use. Does anyone have any idea what I can check closer to see if I can fix it myself, by buying the part I need and installing it? Thanks for any information you may have. Best wishes to you, and your families. Mike

[6t7gto]

Do you have a multimeter?
Check for power at the wall where the stove plugs in.
Did you turn the breaker fully off and then turn it back on?
The controls usually use 110v. You may have lost the neutral for that.
220v is for the heating elements.

david

[py71lemans]

If after doing what David said and you have a volt meter check the power cord terminals in the back. You should have 120v between the black and white wires and 240 between the black and red. There is no fuse that I could see in the schematic.

Also your model number CRE95308CW is not correct. Its probably CRE9530BCM

Steve

[RR67GTO]

Good afternoon friends. Last March I had a new Eaton 200 Amp service and breakers installed in my home. Updating from an older 1973 service. I took the advise that 6t7gto said and tested my outlet for the range. No power at all. So, I went to the breaker again and noticed that it would not stay on, even though it looked like it was. Because I'm use to the older box, where the breakers are easy to see when they are on or off, these new breakers have a very short throw. I installed an extra 30 Amp in place of the 40 Amp for the range and the range clock and lights work. I wont use the 30 AMP. These boxes and breakers have a 10 year warranty, so I'm going to take it to a local place and exchange it. I will also buy a couple extra 20 and 30 amp breakers to have on hand. Now, thank you very much for everyones help. Because of your advise, I didn't call repair to have the range checked paying a service call when it was the bad breaker. It's odd, because my old service was installed in 1973. I've lived here since 1985, and only had to replace one 20 Amp breakers all those years. This one lasted a whole seven months. Again thank you. Oh one more thing. On a positive side by pulling the range out I had the chance to clean behind it. Man, was that ever a mess. Mike

[jetallman]

Modern free standing and wall unit ranges are wired with 6 awg wire and a double 50 amp breaker. I've been building houses for 23 years and this is the norm. You can use 8 awg with a 50 amp but that is minimum wire gauge, there is a data plate on the oven unit that gives amp rating telling you wire and breaker size. Never seen a free standing range/ oven or wall mount unit use 30 amp breaker, definitely would trip during self clean mode which uses the most juice.

[RR67GTO]

Jetallman, thank you. I only installed the 30 amp to check to see of the 40 amp was bad. I didn't use the stove, just made sure the light and clock came on. Once I knew the 7 month old breaker was bad, I exchanged it and installed the 40 amp again. However, because you say that 50 amp is normal I'm going to check and make sure if I have the correct size, by using the 40. If not, then the electrician needs to come out and install the 50 amp. Because, I paid a lot of money having the service box replaced to the local codes. He is responsible for making sure the breakers are the correct amperage. Thanks again, and good day friends. Mike

[jetallman]

Insure your wire is rated for 50 amp, will be a 8 awg min. To much breaker is a fire hazard, 30 amp wire is 10-2 or 10-3, 20 amp is a 12-2 or 12-3 15 amp wire is a 14-2 or 14-3, I use 8 for 40 amp and 6 for 50 amp check with your local electrical supply store they are well informed of your local codes, box stores are your last resort but you may get lucky and find a knowledgeable person.
Good luck and be safe