[njsteve]

Latest update:

I pulled the timing cover and after a few false starts thinking that the gear set was marked wrong. I discovered the problem.

Even though the marks lined up perfectly at 12 and 6 o'clock positions and 12 and 12 o'clock positions when rotated through the cycle, I noticed that when either position was set, and I slid the balancer back on, the TDC mark on the balancer was in the 7 o'clock position for either the #1 or #6 cylinder firing position.




And when I moved the balancer to the TDC position this is what the gears looked like:





I know what you're thinking: Nope, the balancer didn't spin on its hub.



I took me an hour of comparing old gears and new and then going back to my old trusty manual....

Turns out that I installed the lower sprocket when the crankshaft keyway was in the 10 o'clock position. That's about 4 hours too early.



The crank sprocket should be installed when the keyway is in the 2 o'clock position, other the cam is waaaaay out of time and the #1 piston is about an inch below TDC.

DOH!




Back to garage to put things back together....again.


Sometimes when things go together too easily - it means you must have done something wrong.

Hey, come to think of it, I believe the wife put that sprocket on. Yeah, That's gotta be it.

[Norwood]

Its always the simplest things. I have pulled timing covers off a few times in my life in order to double check

[Pepi]

Sounds like you got it figured out. Glad to hear it, now lets hear her run!!

[Held for Ransom]

Again, timing marks pointing straight up. "O" and "O" looks good to go. Should be good to go, as long as dizzy is correctly installed.

[njsteve]

Eureka!

Got everything back together this morning after correcting the crank gear fiasco. I hooked up the oil pan heater and the coolant heater and got the block temp up to 180 degrees. I cleaned up a set of the fouled plugs and threw them back in. Set the distributor by eye and crossed my fingers.

I turned the key and the car instantly started. I then sat there for 15 minutes running the cam in at 1700 to 2000 rpm. Shut her off, and checked for leaks. Thankfully none were found, especially in the rear main seal area and the front of the pan where the timing cover had to be removed.

I then drained all the start up oil and additives and checked the magnetic drain plug. Nothing whatsoever on the magnet. Very clean. I refilled it with 5 quarts of 5W30 and Lucas break-in additive. I then let it cool down to ambient temperature. Once it cooled off, The son and I went out for a ring-setting drive.

I did 10 sets of 30 to 50 mph second gear full throttle runs. After each run up the rpms I would let it pull itself down in gear, back to 30 mph. Then I drove a few miles more to my buddy's garage to give him the good news and went back home after the 11 mile round trip.

She runs nice! Once the weather clears up I will play with the timing so more, but she feels very strong right now and not a even hint of pinging.

Here's how she looks at the moment:







And here's how she sounds. Very smooth and quiet until you hit the throttle. (put your mouse on the photo and left click)





Now I have to put Gramma's car back together after borrowing the cap and wires for testing on the Formula.

[LeighP]

Glad thats up and running for you....its always a bit of a nail biter, eh?

[njsteve]

I just checked my math and it looks like this engine pull and rebuild took 34 days start to finish, even with the 6 day delay with the crank pully mix-up. Gramma's Firebird took 35 days.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...ammas+firebird

It's a new, family engine rebuild record!

[Formulabruce]

wow, Grats Steve, Im sure you will enjoy driving the car so much more now!!. Can also run 87 octane fuel if you want. Roads are mostly white here,( NaCl ) so no trips for my car

[Pepi]

Sounds really good. Nice timing on rebuild days.

[shakerz]

nice post-op recovery!

[The Boss]

Nicely done Steve, thanks for the updates.

[Tellyshavilli]

Hi steve .Great to see it back up and running.

[njsteve]

BTW, here is the contraption that I used to preheat the engine.



I plumbed the inlet to the 1500 watt coolant heater into the lower heater hose outlet from the water pump. The outlet went to the temp sender on top of the intake, while the other part of the T is connected to the disconnected heater hose. This way the block water was heated up. I tested it with the infra red gun and it read 180 degrees at the intake. The heater core and the radiator water didnt get the heat since the water pump was not circulating the coolant.

I had one of these same coolant heaters plumbed into my diesel Suburban and it would get the fluid real toasty in the winter.

The square thingy is a magnetic oil pan heater. You just stick it to the bottom of the pan and it heats the oil up to 100 degrees or so.

All together the parts cost about $60. Well worth the expense.

[njsteve]

BTW, if anyone is interested in the old pistons and rods out of this engine here are the links.

They make great Christmas gifts!

Or Chanukah gifts - one for each night!

Call now operators are standing by!

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=715958

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=715961

[njsteve]

I scuffed and painted the top of the radiator support yesterday and then installed the ECS Automotive repro emissions sticker I had in my "decal file".

ECS made their repro 1972 455HO sticker from my original that I peeled off of the 72 Trans Am a few years ago. It is definitely the most accurate one out there. They are happy to make new stickers from your originals if it is one that they don't have in their inventory. (They even gave me a couple free ones for loaning them my original).

http://www.ecsautomotive.com/productdesc.php?co=g&id=11

[Formulabruce]

Wow looking great! your Formy is ready for summer! ( we can swipe it from Leigh for a few days!!)

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Now that is nearly unheard of! I can see the rods being close, but , that is just WOW to me. I did my own, then watched the assembly balanced., spinning.. Im in shock , your engine should be able to pass the "Coffee" test for sure!

Bruce, here is your official Coffee Test photo.

The Family Engine Rebuild.
Idle speed: 800 RPM.
Outside temperature: 30 degrees
Coffee: Cream with two artificial sugars.
The wife's coffee cup.

Priceless.

[njsteve]

I have been tuning the carb and timing the past few days. I am currently on 74 jets, 43 primary rods and DA secondary rods. She runs very nicely and pulls well up the RPM range.

Does anyone have a spare pair of BE or BL secondary rods they can "loan" me? The magic setup recipe that I had in the T/A was 74 jet, 44 primary rods and BE secondary rods and that car pulled like crazy (same rear gears, same transmission).

I have around 110 miles on the motor now and I am a firm believer in breaking them in like you are going to drive them: hard. She starts at the first turn of the key and idles nicely. I have been doing a lot of my 8 mile test and tune trips over the past week or so when the weather permits.

[Formulabruce]

Grats! just the way my Grandpa showed me 40 years ago...

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Grats! just the way my Grandpa showed me 40 years ago...

What? The two artificial sugars?

I think they had outlawed Cyclamates as an artificial sweetener by then.

:-)