[RAIV-Z]

Just a heads up to all you other McCarty RA-V owners, you might want to check to make sure that none of the accessory bolt holes were drilled too deep. I have 1 hole in each head leaking water. Looking back at pictures taken on 3/9/2012 when the engine was unloaded from the delivery truck, it seems odd that when received from BES one hole was used for the water pump ground and the other didn’t have a bolt in it.

[Stan Weiss]

Or maybe during their visual inspection of the head they saw that it was not a blind hole and put a little sealer on the bolt threads and just continued on.

Stan

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Or maybe during their visual inspection of the head they saw that it was not a blind hole and put a little sealer on the bolt threads and just continued on.

Stan

Maybe for the hole on the passenger side front, what about the driver’s side rear? This would have leaked when it was run on the dyno at BES.

Some sort of note indicating these 2 holes were drilled into the water jacket would have been appreciated.

[Stan Weiss]

If you took the engine from the crate and ran it you have a point.

But you took it a part to redo it. So now you need to inspect every part and that means every bolt hole. If something is missed now it falls on you the builder / assembler.

Stan

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

If you took the engine from the crate and ran it you have a point.

But you took it a part to redo it. So now you need to inspect every part and that means every bolt hole. If something is missed now it falls on you the builder / assembler.

Stan

The issue was found and resolved while pressure testing the engine on the stand. Whether I took the engine apart or not I’m still allowed to ponder why there wasn’t something sealing the hole when it was received.

The point was to inform other guys who might have purchased heads.

[mgarblik]

Your point about bolt holes drilled through or too deep is a good one. Very common on any aftermarket head or block. I have seen this on Tiger heads, IA 1 Blocks, early E heads and many brand X parts. I generally fix this with a short set screw and lots of pipe sealer with teflon on the threads. Put it in the hole first, then your regular fastener in next. Problem solved. Usually, after they make a run or two of the parts, these type of issues are solved in the machining program. Good luck on the dyno!.

[Tom Vaught]

Short Set Screws epoxied into the hole to where they just seal should still give you more than enough thread engagement for any accesory drive component, (especially if you are fixing only one hole) and you can still run a normal fastener (slightly shortened) with no water leaks from then on. As Mike says, more common that you would think, More of a normal checkout process on the heads.

Tom Vaught

[RAIV-Z]

For the dyno, a couple of spare header bolts and some tape dope will cover it.

Anyone like to guess at what it might make after fixing a few things and changing the cam?

[Tom Vaught]

More than it did before, I hope!

Tom Vaught

[cgeise]

1150 hp at 12 lb

[RAIV-Z]

Going to run it NA with a carb to break it in again, won't see EFI and turbo numbers until the engine is in the car.

Most of the fixes centered around the valve train, springs, cam, pushrods, rockers, timing chain, etc..

[Travis Q]

Originally Posted by cgeise

1150 hp at 12 lb

I'd say that's a dead nuts estimate.

[pastry_chef]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

Anyone like to guess at what it might make after fixing a few things and changing the cam?

Does the new cam have extra duration or lift Ed?

[rodneybutler]

Sounds like TQ might have done this before. Lol!

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by pastry_chef

Does the new cam have extra duration or lift Ed?

The cam on the bottom is currently installed, same 1.65 rocker ratio, head gaskets are .020 thicker.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by RAIV-Z

The cam on the bottom is currently installed, same 1.65 rocker ratio, head gaskets are .020 thicker.

That added about 5 cc's to your total volume. How much did it reduce your CR?

Stan

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

That added about 5 cc's to your total volume. How much did it reduce your CR?

Stan

~.29

[Stan Weiss]

Was this done to increase PTV clearance because of the new cam's greater lift, or you wanted to increase squish clearance to reduce max squish velocity, or some other reason?

If I read the cam cards you also did the firing order switch.

Stan

[cgeise]

Originally Posted by Travis Q

I'd say that's a dead nuts estimate.

In my best Elvis voice -- Thank you - thank you very much

[RAIV-Z]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

Was this done to increase PTV clearance because of the new cam's greater lift, or you wanted to increase squish clearance to reduce max squish velocity, or some other reason?

If I read the cam cards you also did the firing order switch.

Stan

0.080 was the recommended thickness to support double O-rings with a solid copper gasket.
Firing order was changed. The first cam was also supposed to have that as well, got a song and dance instead.

We'll be using the turbo headers connected to 3" pipes on the dyno.