[Greg Reid]

I used the same cap that was on my '68. As for shipping, I paid at Advance Auto in the morning and picked it up at 1 pm. No damage as they just brought it from their warehouse.
I'm not sure what the tank is made of. I just degreased and clearcoated it with Dupli-Color clear. Still looks like the day I installed it.

[68ragtop]

Mine should be delivered tomorrow. I'll cross my fingers.

Do they come with much shipping protection?

[Greg Reid]

Heavy cardboard box as I recall and I think maybe in a plastic bag... Nothing special....but it's fairly rugged.

[68ragtop]

The tank just showed up!

It Looks great, I am not disappointed as I was preparing to be.
the box was undamaged & the tank was wrapped well. No dents or dings. Very satisfied.
I have a bunch of parts coming from Ames next week too. Going to be like Christmas!

[68ragtop]

Ok, well I got home with it & looked closer.
maybe I get to have a little disappointment after all.... lol
But, at least its not dented!

looks like its been this way a while.

[68ragtop]

Greg, can you lek at your car & tell me how much space you have between the bod & neck? (i made a red reference arrow on your picture) Going to tweak things before I repair the tank. I am guessing it needs to be pretty close?

Thanks

[Greg Reid]

That photo is kind of misleading as the area you have the red line drawn in actually extends all the way up the the trailing edge of the trunk pan...that is, right below the trailing edge of the trunk lid visible at the top left of the photo...
With that in mind, it is about 4 inches. Mine could actually stand to go up another half inch. I didn't want to stress it though. So, let's say 3.5" from the bottom of the trunk pan/rear filler panel pinchweld to the top of the filler tube.
I'll bet a good radiator shop could solder that up pretty good for you.

[68ragtop]

I am a long ways from installing the tank yet, but want to get fitted. The body is upside down on the rotisserie right now so I can just lay the tank in place to check its fit. The neck is bent 1" to the side as well as the cracked joint. I don't think I'm going to bother bringing it back for a replacement, all though thats an option. From the looks of it, I appears the tank mounting area is what bends as the neck is incredibly solid by comparison.

I still have my original tank in deep storage too. I suppose I could always go get that & compare them. Its just not nearby or easy to do.

What was originaly used between the tank & body, tank & straps? I am finding conflicting info between strips & insulation sheets. The restoration manual doesn't show anything.

[Greg Reid]

I did not use anything between the straps and the tank and I used a really nice pad that is an exact copy of the original between the tank and the trunk floor. It's supplied by a user here by the name of Patton Glade. Haven't seen him around lately but his user name is P Glade.

[68ragtop]

How thick are those pads? with no pads & the fuel pick up installed, the fuel lines hit the trunk floor. Seems the tank bows outward a little, so I can push it down some if needed, but there isn't much room on top right now.

[68ragtop]

EDIT: Tank was slightly tweaked. I also found a strap insulation kit I must have ordered a while back. Just rubber strips tho. Everything clears now

[Greg Reid]

Pad is maybe 1/8~3/16 inch thick. It's kind of a rubberized material with a plastic liner on one side. Just like the originals. One of the more satisfactory items I've bought for my resto. I got another one for the '66 even though it's years from being restored probably.

[68ragtop]

I fitted the tank & adjusted the neck. I was able to get it into the center of where the bumper opening will be. What I found is, the neck itself does not bent. Its incredibly rigid. All movement comes from the tank flexing. I went a little further & brought the neck within 1/8- 3/16" of the recessed area in the body. This positioned the fill cap perfectly in the bumper opening.

But, for those looking to do this in the future, be warned that this movement will likely crack the solder joint. It really doesn't take much to crack it at all. the neck needs to pull out a little near the seam of the tank halves. Its too rigid & the solder gives out. Mine was already compromised out of the box not he top, so I really didn't care about that happening on the other side.

The good news is, its very easy to repair. A little flux & very careful with the heat & its a good seal again. I also pressure tested it to be sure. Once its full of fuel, I sure don't want to deal with leaks.

So, I can now put the tank back in the box & in storage until the car is in paint.

[68ragtop]

On a related note, Does anyone have a picture of where the bracket goes that holds the vent tube on the front corner of the tank? I replaced the floor pans, so if it went there, I have no way of knowing where it went originally.

This is all I could find so far.

[Greg Reid]

Did you use a torch or an iron for the soldering?
I don't recall how the front vent was held in place on my car. It's been a while.

[68ragtop]

I used a torch, But all I have for a torch in the shop is map gas with a non-adjustable head.
It was way more heat than needed. It worked ok, but I had to be carful. I heated it at the neck & kept the flame aways back. It heats up really fast. just takes a few seconds of heat. The trick seems to be not letting it get too hot as the solder will run like water.

There are so many things with this car I am starting to forget. I have had it apart for so long it makes me sad. I was single & had all the time in the world when I started to tear it apart. Then marriage & a family happened. It just sits sometimes month after month.
But, Its darn near ready for paint & getting really close now.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

The trick seems to be not letting it get too hot as the solder will run like water.

That's what I was picturing...
As for how long it takes, I know. Took me ten years to get mine back on the road but it finally got there. I'm driving her now.

[6869GTO]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

On a related note, Does anyone have a picture of where the bracket goes that holds the vent tube on the front corner of the tank? I replaced the floor pans, so if it went there, I have no way of knowing where it went originally.

This is all I could find so far.

Right side tank support brace. Hope this helps. Ignore print on hose.

[P Glade]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

How thick are those pads? with no pads & the fuel pick up installed, the fuel lines hit the trunk floor. Seems the tank bows outward a little, so I can push it down some if needed, but there isn't much room on top right now.

My Gas Tank Pads are the same thickness as the originals. From what I've been able to tell the factories did not use anything between the gas tank STRAPS and the tank underside....once the bolts are snugged up there is no movement there.

Thanks for the good words Greg!

If you have interest in a Gas Tank Pad just PM me with your zipcode and I can get you a total cost including shipping. I'll also be up in Milwaukee in July at the Olds Club of America Nationals and could easily deliver one there.

[68ragtop]

PM's sent. Thanks for all the help guys!