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  #361  
Old 10-04-2018, 05:46 PM
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I’m afraid to post anything for fear the thread police might come calling...

Ah screw it,...

Is there any way or has anyone ever had a cam walk back and forth and hit the plug if it is in too far?? I’m also the guy asking about the starter in the video and also of the thought of TC bolts

The suspense is just killing to find the root cause....

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  #362  
Old 10-04-2018, 06:15 PM
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I think it would have to be able to run without a dist to do that?Tom

  #363  
Old 10-04-2018, 06:19 PM
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Is that even possible in a Pontiac? Even if the rear plug wasn't there?

The end play is determined by the relationship of the cam gear and eccentric (or spacer) to the cam plate and it's thickness. It's essentially held in at the front of the engine. I suppose if the eccentric was left off and the cam plate was thin, you could cause an excessive amount of end play. I don't know if that would create a near rhythmic tapping though. I would think it would be easy to see a lot of wonder in the timing if that was the case though.

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  #364  
Old 10-04-2018, 06:49 PM
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ponchjoe,
The thread police are outside your door right now..come out with your hands up! Hahahaha. The cam question is way over my head. I wouldn't have a clue.

  #365  
Old 10-04-2018, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchjoe View Post
I’m afraid to post anything for fear the thread police might come calling...

Ah screw it,...

Is there any way or has anyone ever had a cam walk back and forth and hit the plug if it is in too far??
In a Chevrolet it's possible. I had a roller cam in one, and at that time I was using the rollerized button. But it would tap the timing cover while running. Intermittently, and it was annoying. I pulled that and put the more common plastic cam button in it and no more noise.

  #366  
Old 10-04-2018, 09:33 PM
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[QUOTE=Va68goat;5939556]Holeshot71,
Would there be any evidence of residue on the manifolds itself?

I would think there should be some signs of carbon if there was a leak. Might be hard to see if it were up between the manifold and block.

Sirrotica,
Didn't see your post on the hose. Definitely a good tool to have in the tool box..

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  #367  
Old 10-04-2018, 10:18 PM
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Well, it’s been almost 6 months since the “ticking was heard. On April 10 Cliff said he thought it sounded like an exhaust leak. Good luck. You’re more patient than me.

  #368  
Old 10-04-2018, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponchjoe View Post
I’m afraid to post anything for fear the thread police might come calling...

Ah screw it,...

Is there any way or has anyone ever had a cam walk back and forth and hit the plug if it is in too far?? I’m also the guy asking about the starter in the video and also of the thought of TC bolts

The suspense is just killing to find the root cause....

The only way this could happen in a Pontiac is if the fuel pump eccentric bolt came off the front of the cam. Otherwise there is a thrust plate there to hold the cam in position. It had .005" cam end play from what I remember. If the bolt did come loose, the engine would not run because the fuel pump would no longer be pumping fuel. The bolt would only have to back off a few threads before the fuel pump eccentric came loose and quit working the pump. So I doubt this is the case, but good thinking outside the box!

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  #369  
Old 10-04-2018, 11:13 PM
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Bentwheelbob,
Well, theres no sense in being anything but patient. 6 months ago we checked for an exhaust leak. There is no evidence of an exhaust leak at the manifold. I know its almost impossible to tell on the videos but I don't think it's an exhaust leak. I've had some experienced guys looking at this car and they see no signs of an exhaust leak.

  #370  
Old 10-05-2018, 01:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMounce View Post
Is that even possible in a Pontiac? Even if the rear plug wasn't there?

The end play is determined by the relationship of the cam gear and eccentric (or spacer) to the cam plate and it's thickness. It's essentially held in at the front of the engine. I suppose if the eccentric was left off and the cam plate was thin, you could cause an excessive amount of end play. I don't know if that would create a near rhythmic tapping though. I would think it would be easy to see a lot of wonder in the timing if that was the case though.
There are 2 styles of camshaft galley plugs commonly sold for the back of the block. One is a shallow plug, the other a deeper plug. It is possible to drive the deeper plug in too far causing the end of camshaft to rub on the flat face of the plug. The block plug kits use the two interchangeably if properly installed.

The area is pretty well lubricate so it is doubtful it would make any noise or cause any problems.

  #371  
Old 10-05-2018, 08:54 AM
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Can't figure out what I'm seeing here...
The bottm end pic doesn't show any grinding or de-burr work on the outside of that crank arm.
Edge of arm face behind number three rod.


Just asking
Clay

  #372  
Old 10-05-2018, 09:13 AM
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Don't know if this helps but here are a few more pics
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  #373  
Old 10-05-2018, 09:14 AM
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Few more
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  #374  
Old 10-09-2018, 04:59 PM
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Ok, I'll ask as I'm sure many want to know here.... What happened this past weekend on this deal?

  #375  
Old 10-09-2018, 05:45 PM
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Well torqhead...

Looks like I'm going to have to dig into my wallet some more. None of my friends were available to help me switch out the flexplate. I just don't have the experience with these old cars to switch it out on my own. I have way too much money invested in this motor to do something out of desperation and make a mistake. Guys have their own cars to deal with and family stuff etc. I called a couple of local shops and at $105.00 an hour, I was told this was a 7 hour job. I think it's about a 3 or 4 hour job really..but thats what a few shops told me. I'm not even 100% they even know much about these old cars so I'm worried about that as well. I can tell you for certain that I wish I would have gotten into these old cars a long time ago so I could do this stuff on my own... Hopefully, I'll be able to get this done soon.

  #376  
Old 10-09-2018, 06:00 PM
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I certainly don't want to act like I am telling you what to do but a friendly warning. Typical repair shops have NO CLUE how to work on these old cars. There may not be a single person in the shop who was alive when it was built. I would be concerned their $105.00 per hour "mechanical skills" could introduce new and different problems to further complicate your issues. An example would be the almost certain blasting on of the flex plate with an air impact and no use of a torque wrench on anything. They are getting paid to get it in and get it out fast. I would recommend waiting if you have to for your friends who have been guiding you along and have a stake and interest in helping you fix it. Wish you the best.

  #377  
Old 10-09-2018, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Va68goat View Post
Well torqhead...

Looks like I'm going to have to dig into my wallet some more. None of my friends were available to help me switch out the flexplate. I just don't have the experience with these old cars to switch it out on my own. I have way too much money invested in this motor to do something out of desperation and make a mistake. Guys have their own cars to deal with and family stuff etc. I called a couple of local shops and at $105.00 an hour, I was told this was a 7 hour job. I think it's about a 3 or 4 hour job really..but thats what a few shops told me. I'm not even 100% they even know much about these old cars so I'm worried about that as well. I can tell you for certain that I wish I would have gotten into these old cars a long time ago so I could do this stuff on my own... Hopefully, I'll be able to get this done soon.
Guess I was assuming you were going to do more investigation before swapping parts. So you weren't able to get it on a lift for further inspection or was no one able to make it this past weekend? If that was the case it's worth the wait for some of the guys to get a chance to come over and have a look again. I wouldn't pay or pull the trans and replace the flexplate unless you know that's the cause.

BTW, you have been showing some major patience and probably has to do with getting older. You would be surprised how fairly straightforward these old cars are and with the right patience (yours), you can work on them and figure stuff out. You've got more knowledge at this point than a lot of people do. I learned many years ago by my best friends grandfather giving me a little guidance and a manual. Sometimes you just have to go for it, never too late...Life is about learning all the time!

  #378  
Old 10-09-2018, 06:11 PM
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The transmission doesn't even have to come out of the car to change a flexplate. If you know how to do it just sliding the transmission towards the rear and working on it through the gap. I can change one on a lift in an hour. Seven hours is excessive labor. If you look at an older flat rate manual I believe even R&R transmission and change flexplate is right around 2 hours.

I agree with Mike, most wouldn't have a clue, unless they actually own one of these cars.

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  #379  
Old 10-09-2018, 07:19 PM
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mgarblik,
Yeah, I agree with you. I just don't trust these local shops to do the right thing. My friends that have worked on my car are on this forum and they have spent a lot of time on my car. We don't do anything on the car unless we run it by Paul first. They know these cars in and out. I've just reached a time where this has gone on long enough. I need to either have this figured out or send it back to Paul to take a look at it. Though I missed a whole season and spent a ton of money, I just want this motor right.

torqhead,
I'm so upside down on this motor that the flexplate is really the only thing that was on the previous car. The one that I purchased at Butlers is SFI rated and I think it's a good upgrade from a stock flexplate. This motor dyno'd at 550 hp with Jeff's Koerners carburetor (which should be here this week). My buddy with the lift wasn't available this weekend and I don't want to be any more of a pain in the ass to all the guys that have helped me. Make no mistake..the patience is wearing thin because in reality, I should be on my 2nd set of rear tires by now..hahaha. Well, with limited experience with cars, I have no choice but to be patient. I appreciate my friends that help me, I appreciate the guys in here taking the time to give me suggestions and I appreciate Paul and Jeff standing by their build. This is not an easy thing to go through but at the end if this, I'm sure I'll have a bad ass car.

Sirrotica,
Yeah that 7 hours labor seemed excessive. Beside worrying about doing something wrong with the car that can cause further damage, I'm also worried about not having the right equipment to do the job. I'm not that comfortable crawling around a car thats on jack stands considering I have very little time doing it. Believe me, it sucks but I would rather pay the right person than take a chance at damaging the car or getting hurt. (After 28 and a half years at my job, I'm retiring in 93 days...no way am I going to hurt myself or the car..hahahaha)

  #380  
Old 10-09-2018, 07:28 PM
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This is not an easy thing to go through but at the end if this, I'm sure I'll have a bad ass car.
I can assure you it'll be worth it in the end. Unfortunately sometimes "the adventure" takes us on a detour. Once you have this figured out and you feel the pull in your chest as you stomp the pedal you'll be grinning ear to ear and be talking about this strange noise that took you and your friends some time to figure out.

Shout out to the forum guys that have been supporting you locally!!!

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