The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum

          
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  #21  
Old 12-15-2018, 12:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Milner View Post
Not a Pontiac but my Dodge Charger that I attached a picture of was sprayed with Summit Racing single stage urethane, which I believe is Kirker paint. I also used Summit Racing primers on the car when I was doing body work. I would estimate that I have somewhere around $600 to $800 invested on the paint/primers/thinners. I just can't afford a $10,000 paint job.
That's a cool car.

  #22  
Old 12-15-2018, 10:40 AM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
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Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
As far as I know Summit paint is made by Kirker....

Don
Internet wive's tale.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's View Post
Summit's paint is re-labeled Dupli-Color which is Sherwin-Williams.

  #23  
Old 12-15-2018, 11:10 AM
roy381 roy381 is offline
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Hi guys this is my 4k paint job from a body shop guy doing work on the side. He did the finish body work and block sand bc/cc and cut and buff. I paid for materials and rented a booth for him to spray from another local shop. Ask around guys are looking to make extra cash.
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  #24  
Old 12-15-2018, 11:14 AM
roy381 roy381 is offline
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Forgot to mention we used Diamont RM and SPI universal clear coat which the painter had never used. He liked the CC so much he said he will be using it on his other jobs customer permitting.

  #25  
Old 12-15-2018, 01:39 PM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roy381 View Post
Ask around guys are looking to make extra cash.
You have to be very careful when you do this. Just because someone does it for a living or does it on the side doesn't mean they know what they are doing. The guy that did my McLaren GP claimed to have 30 years experience. When he was done, I took it to a guy that really did know what he was doing and had it re-done. I told that clown right out, just because you've been doing it for 30 years doesn't mean you know what the fuk you're doing!

  #26  
Old 12-15-2018, 07:28 PM
dhutton dhutton is offline
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Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's View Post
Internet wive's tale.
Well at this point you haven’t offered any proof of your assertion so I’m going to say your position is an internet wive’s tale....

Don

  #27  
Old 12-15-2018, 08:49 PM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
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Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
Well at this point you haven’t offered any proof of your assertion so I’m going to say your position is an internet wive’s tale....

Don
And you?

I buy through the Summit Pro system as well as know people at the Ohio location. I do not know how to post Brad Kemp but he is the one who told me first hand several years ago. I will be waiting for your "proof".

  #28  
Old 12-15-2018, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's View Post
And you?

I buy through the Summit Pro system as well as know people at the Ohio location. I do not know how to post Brad Kemp but he is the one who told me first hand several years ago. I will be waiting for your "proof".
My next door neighbor’s second cousin twice removed knows a guy who knows a guy who works cleaning the floors at Summit in Arlington Texas....

Don

  #29  
Old 12-15-2018, 10:45 PM
roy381 roy381 is offline
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Default Cut n buff

Chief I get what you're saying. I think if you do your due diligence you can get someone that you are comfortable with. Looking at their prior work would be highly recommended. Trust me my first go around didn't work out well. But I learned my lesson quick.

  #30  
Old 12-15-2018, 10:46 PM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
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Iam going to get another beer....I’ll be right back..

  #31  
Old 12-15-2018, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by roy381 View Post
Chief I get what you're saying. I think if you do your due diligence you can get someone that you are comfortable with. Looking at their prior work would be highly recommended. Trust me my first go around didn't work out well. But I learned my lesson quick.
Well that's just it. I was referred to this guy. Never seen any of his work prior but the guy that referred me had work done by him. Just goes to show, some people see "shine" and figures it looks like a million bucks.

Without going into extended detail, did you ever see anyone try to feather paint delam? Then burry it with primer and smooth it out with a DA?. Those were just 2 of the dozens of issues.

  #32  
Old 12-17-2018, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhutton View Post
Well at this point you haven’t offered any proof of your assertion so I’m going to say your position is an internet wive’s tale....

Don
From what I have read you're both right. The single stage products are Kirker and the BC/CC is the shrink and wrinkle; er, I mean Sherwin-williams.

  #33  
Old 12-17-2018, 11:54 PM
t money t money is offline
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Never looked in to it but ever look in to getting in wrapped.

  #34  
Old 12-18-2018, 02:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg Reid View Post
Can't answer all your questions but as far as what it is... A base coat-clear coat job consist of a layer of color, which has little shine to it, coated with a clear coat. That's where the shine comes in..The clear coat usually comes out of the gun with just a little 'orange peel' or 'bumpiness' to it.
Cut and buff is when the painter sands that clear coat until it's dead flat. That's the 'cut'. Not only is it 'flat' as far as the shine is concerned but the actual surface is flat and that's the purpose. They can tell that it's ready to buff when there is no more shine showing. That is, any low spots will still show shine.
Once it's all sanded totally flat, they use a buffing compound to bring the shine back. That's the 'buff'. At that point, the surface should be like glass. Flat and smooth to the eye and to the touch.
Do you really need it? No. Not if you don't care if you can see a little orange peel here and there. You can many times see a little orange peel in factory paint jobs since no one 'cuts and buffs' in the factory. It depends on the skill of the painter how much will be there before it's cut and buffed.
It's more than one coat of base.... your money should go into a good clear, restoration shops base paint covers very well.... you want to lay your first coat of clear, just like your last. Coat,.less orange peel, the easier it will be to cut..
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  #35  
Old 12-24-2018, 06:53 PM
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Personally, I would never paint a car that someone else has done the body work, primer, and surfacer on proclaiming it to be "paint ready" and take it for granted that it is, indeed, ready for paint. That is a sure-fire recipe for disaster.

My last job was on a '66 Corvair convertible that the owner had done extensive body work on. He tried every body shop within a 200-mile radius to find someone to finish the job, and nobody would touch it. All they are interested in is quick in-and-out insurance work. We happened to meet at a local cruise-in and worked out a deal to follow the recipe described below. Although he did a decent job at body prep, I still spent 100+ hours getting it "just right".

The first thing to do would be to sand it and prep it for another coat or two of sandable primer compatible with the color coats to be applied.

Next step is guide-coat and block-sand every square inch until it is perfect. If more sandable primer is required then rinse-repeat.

Only then would I consider "waving a paint gun around", and it would only be with a high-quality paint such as PPG Concept or the equivalent. Why? Cheap paint is just that, cheap paint. When it starts to deteriorate due to heat, cold, and UV exposure, folks will only see a crappy looking result. I can't speak for everyone, but I do have a reputation to uphold.

Bottom line: MAACO for the OP

  #36  
Old 12-24-2018, 09:06 PM
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I used Macco for a paint job. I gave the painter a $100.00 tip up front and asked if there is anything he could do to make it as nice as possible. It looked OK when it came out of the booth but had some dirt in the paint. He said "I'm sorry about the dirt but He laid extra coats of clear on it. I took it home, wet sanded and buffed it, and it looks great.

  #37  
Old 01-08-2019, 11:26 PM
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One word MAACO. That’s what I am doing. I am having final body prep, base clear with four layers of clear, three different colors if you count the different glosses used in the interior of the car and reassembly for 6500

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  #38  
Old 01-09-2019, 08:00 AM
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I got the maaco paint job back in 2003 and it has held up well. $1400 with a final cut and buff.

All the flaws are of my making, amateur body work by me.



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  #39  
Old 01-09-2019, 08:44 AM
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I'll probably go that route if I don't paint it myself ... I'm just looking for OEM quality.

  #40  
Old 01-09-2019, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
I'll probably go that route if I don't paint it myself ... I'm just looking for OEM quality.
If you want OEM quality then you want nitrocellulose lacquer. And before anybody says it, yes, you can still buy it.

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