[jotrout]

Is the drip rail stainless and able to be polished?

What method have you all used to R&R? I Googled and saw the can opener way, and my favorite is My Friend Pete;s method.

Does anyone make good repops?

Thanks Joe

[jotrout]

Anybody?

[60sstuff]

I’m assuming you are working on a 66-67 with the one piece drip rail molding.

If so, they are a fragile aluminum moulding.

Because of this material, they bend / tweak very easily when removing.
If they are removed and not damage, they can be re-anodized and cleared.
I’m not sure what the pro restoration shops do?

I wish they were stainless. They would be much more durable for an R/R.

Chris.

[Jerry H.]

I like the can opener method. Used it many times. Not sure about 66-7's, but the 64-5's were anodized aluminum, not stainless steel. They can be carefully polished, but only after you strip the anodizing off. And then they will 'milk' back up in short order if not re anodized, clear coated or otherwise treated. The repops I've used were excellent and worked better than trying to save the originals.

[Jerry H.]

Originally Posted by 60sstuff

I’m assuming you are working on a 66-67 with the one piece drip rail molding.

If so, they are a fragile aluminum moulding.

Because of this material, they bend / tweak very easily when removing.
If they are removed and not damage, they can be re-anodized and cleared.
I’m not sure what the pro restoration shops do?

I wish they were stainless. They would be much more durable for an R/R.

Chris.

We were typing at the same time!

[60sstuff]

Originally Posted by Jerry H.

We were typing at the same time!

Ha, beat ya!

PS, I have used a bottle opener with a duct tape rap to “gently / slowly” remove.
Installing is just a push on method.

[roy381]

The repops I've used were excellent and worked better than trying to save the originals.

x2

[jotrout]

Yes this inquiry is for a 66 single piece drip rail. Thanks everyone - very helpful!

[gtospieg]

I restored the drip rails on my 67 on the car. I taped everything off very well and started with 80 grit on the bad places and worked my way to 2500. Then polished them until they looked like stainless. They came out beautifully. You will need to polish some bits here and there over time. If you don't touch them with sweaty hands or fingers they will last a long time. Very quick to repolish and WAY cheaper than having them reanodized. I redid all the rest of the anodized trim on the car after removing it. Post car with vinyl top so lots of extra trim. Several years later and it all looks great. It probably took 70 hours to redo all the trim and that does not include having to remove the seats, door panels and rear windows and mechanisms. Good luck.

[jotrout]

Hi
Just picking this up, thanks for participating.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by gtospieg

I restored the drip rails on my 67 on the car. I taped everything off very well and started with 80 grit on the bad places and worked my way to 2500. Then polished them until they looked like stainless. .

What did you use to polish them?

[gtospieg]

Greg, I don't recall the name of the polish. I will be in the shop doing my spring oil change to the GTO this weekend and I'll check for the brand name of the polish while I'm there.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks. Take your time...I don't know if I'll ever get around to working on my '66.

[gtospieg]

Greg, It looks like I used "Mothers" "Mag & Aluminum Polish" when I first restored the trim. I use "Wizards" "Metal Renew" occasionally as needed to keep those pesky fingerprints from oxidizing the bare aluminum. Keep in mind that the restoration of the trim pieces was done AFTER the factory anodized coating was removed.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks, I actually have some of that polish and it is good stuff.

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