[mzbk2l]

Very interesting! Only one of my T/As ever had the molding and I didn't really like it. I think it had the angle-cut ends, though - not the spear type.

[Warren Seale]

Originally Posted by Trevor78

Further info for the hell of it.

Random ebay link GM #1155059 is listed as both front and rear fenders for Firebirds in '76-78, trim to suit rear length and both with spear ends.
(Possibly '74-78, as per other common colours.)

Listed as mid-78 change to a specific shorter length rear piece with spear end.

Listed as 1979 change of rear fender strip to have the picture frame end instead of spear, tapered to match wheel arch angle.

1980-81 is listed but has new part numbers. Many had new numbers at this time, it does not say if they were the same parts or different, or mention ends used.

There is also a list of trim for different colours for 73-79 models of all GM, cut to suit and sold as Accessory Trim set, different numbers to pre-cut lengths of model-specific.

For 1980-81 they list a new set of part numbers for their GM Accessory Trim for the various colours offered, but also that they come in lengths of either 1575mm for doors or 400mm for fenders, yes, metric.

This is a common guideline to many colours also, again, if the dealers used GM stock or a trim guy to apply and follow accepted ruling is anyone's guess, and how the rivet type came to be used as well.

Firebird adhesive vinyl body mold ends by Ben, on Flickr

Original adhesive vinyl body molds 79TA 1 by Ben, on Flickr

Original adhesive vinyl body molds 79TA 3 by Ben, on Flickr

1979 Formula W50 decals door edge guard body molds by Ben, on Flickr

Firebird door vinyl body mould strip repro spear and used taper by Ben, on Flickr

Not that the picture frame end versions were supplied to suit both sides when one end is cut off.

NOS GM Firebird rear fender body mould trim white picture frame end 1155396 by Ben, on Flickr

The white car in the photos above with the orange graphic is actually my car showing the original factory moldings. I posted those photos on Photobucket probably 15 years ago.

[Trevor78]

Thanks Warren, answers that well then.

[ckaram68]

Warren and Trevor, you guys rock! Thanks for this additional info.

[Skip Fix]

Like that picture of all the colors the front "spear" on mine looked like they just cut a section out and bent it to make a point.

['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

Like that picture of all the colors the front "spear" on mine looked like they just cut a section out and bent it to make a point.

The obvious cut line to make a spear & the inability to make a 100% correct 1/4 panel section would keep me from buying the "correct repro's". I should have tried harder (ran trackers) in the early 80's to come up with nos body side moldings. By the time I had my black '80 repainted in '84, I was into doing away with chrome accents & ended up installing black anodized alum rails with the slide in black door edge material. Def not stock, but at the time, i didn't see them as tacky looking as what was avail aftermarket in peel & stick.

Am working on getting my '79 Sundance W72 car back together. D#mn thing was ordered with every avail option, even the block heater. Body side moldings will not be going back on. Way I look at it is you much effort in restoration, won't be parking it where it can be door dinged by idiots.

[Maxthe222]

This is an exceptionally helpful thread with great photos illustrating factory colour examples, I'm definitely saving all those diagrams for when my Y84 is repainted!

[Red80TA]

The 71-75 body mould was actually a stainless strip with flat insert, with retainers in body.

Firebird body moulds diagram 1972 by Ben, on Flickr

Here's a few pics of NOS #488141, Firebird front fender.

NOS GM 71-75 488141 fender body mould black (3) by Ben, on Flickr

NOS GM 71-75 488141 fender body mould black (6) by Ben, on Flickr

NOS GM 488141 fender body mould black stainless 71-75 (1) by Ben, on Flickr

NOS GM 488141 fender body mould black stainless 71-75 (2) by Ben, on Flickr

The following are the same moulds used for B-bodies, different length but same details.

NOS GM 488142 stainless body moulds black B-body (3) by Ben, on Flickr

NOS GM 488142 stainless body moulds black B-body (8) by Ben, on Flickr

NOS GM 488142 stainless body moulds black B-body (9) by Ben, on Flickr

NOS GM 488142 stainless body moulds black B-body (5) by Ben, on Flickr

[WadeMccann]

If you're going off factory specs, the pinion depth is set by the shim under the rear pinion bearing. A good starting point is using the original shim and adjusting based on the pattern.

[JUDGE3]

glad to see these are self adhesive and not riveted on. I'll be yanking mine off, never liked it.

[WadeMccann]

Originally Posted by WadeMccann

If you're going off factory specs, the pinion depth is set by the shim under the rear pinion bearing. A good starting point is using the original shim and adjusting based on the pattern.

Sounds like a common issue. I’ve had similar problems, and one thing that helped was looking into rubber compression molding for replacement seals. The original materials tend to wear out faster than you’d expect, especially with temperature changes and age.

[ckaram68]

Confused at what the rear pinion bearing/depth has to do with body side molding?

[wheels]

Same user talking to themself. Troll

[ckaram68]

Thread update: I followed Bentwheelbob's post about his Y88 body side molding project, along with the great help from you guys in this thread. Here's Bentwheelbob's info for easy access: https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...+w72%22&page=9

Turned out pretty good! Not perfect...but neither is my beast (nor the factory). Couple of pics. Thanks again for the pics and background, all.

[burd]

Got a nice roll of nOS gold for a Y88