[HWYSTR455]

I'm wanting to add door stuff that requires the power window boot to run wires to the doors, and potentially add power windows in the future.

I'm looking for 70-73 specific boot pics and install info. Anyone have factory power windows that can post pics of the boots, and the location points?


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[cpu]

Hello,
My 1970 Formula has power windows. By boot do you mean the flexible rubber tubing running from the door jamb to the door?

[Transamric]

If you look closely at the body and door jamb areas where the boots were positioned, you will see pilot divots/sharp impressions that were used as pilots for the boot holes to be cut out.
The hard part is getting them cleanly cut out with the doors installed.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by cpu

Hello,
My 1970 Formula has power windows. By boot do you mean the flexible rubber tubing running from the door jamb to the door?

Yes. Could you post a few pics of the boot/conduit/flexible rubber tubing please?


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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Transamric

If you look closely at the body and door jamb areas where the boots were positioned, you will see pilot divots/sharp impressions that were used as pilots for the boot holes to be cut out.
The hard part is getting them cleanly cut out with the doors installed.

True. Especially since the one on the door is very large. Not sure how to do that, but, the doors are gutted at the moment, so could drill from the inside out.

My understanding is that the body side hole has 2 walls, and is open to the cowl side well, and requires a double seal on the boot?



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[cpu]

I tried to take photos of the boot this morning but I couldn't open the door wide enough in the garage to take good photos. Will try on the weekend, weather permitting.

[Formulabruce]

On the A pillar side, there are 2 HOLES. per side. Outter hole is bigger, Inner is smaller, I have one apart, I'll post pics tonight on a bit

[Formulabruce]

Pics. I did use the factory dimples to drill the holes with a fine tooth machine hole saw

[HWYSTR455]

Thank you FB, that's exactly what I was looking for!

I was looking at the Nu-Relic power window conversion kit instructions and saw the comment to key off the dimples. I looked at the location(s) and the dimples are pronounced, so that would be viable.

I found a set of used boots on eGay and they are super nice, look almost new, will clean up easy. BUT, 'oly cow that's a few big holes that need to be drilled!

You're saying you used a 'fine tooth machine hole saw', like a Rotobroach bit? That's 3 diff size holes, and big, would imagine quality bits aren't cheap?

I may try to make-shift something else work, I only need like two 18-22AWG wires to pass into the door, thinking maybe that would be easier, and if I do decide down the road to go power I can revisit this. I could always sell the boots I have.

That most-inner hole passes into the cowl area, think that would be the only one that really needs to be water tight, or am I missing something?


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[Formulabruce]

New relics has a much smaller " Boot" . I don't use them, so may have extras

[HWYSTR455]

Yes, the 'S' boots, I bought a pair to compare, and they only have the single seal on the body side.

I would think a straight boot would be better? The hole in the door lines up with the hole in the body, so not sure why an 'S' boot is what they provide in the kits?

Again, I'm not too happy about having to drill such large holes, I may just use a piece of vacuum line for the 2 wires I need, with grommets, and if need be, dab a little RTV on the inside of the body panel.

I could make the hole in the door slightly larger too, and maybe let the hose pass in & out of the hole, instead of needing some kind of 'accordion' type boot? I mean like, the door drains, right?


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