[mkoser]

I have recently completed the conversion of my brake master cylinder in my 1964 Pontiac Catalina from a single reservoir to a dual reservoir. I have been asked by members to provide details. This is the way that I did it, your results may vary. I excuse myself from any liability in modifying your original brake system using my method.

This is the "preliminary" conversion. Now that I know what I need, and that it works, I will fine tune it in the weeks to come. Basically, I plan on tidying up my new brake lines, to make it more presentable. You'll see in the final picture that I ended up using one 20 inch and one 30 inch brake line. I will probably redo this with 2, 20 inch lines. Here is the basic info:

Originally I started with a single master cylinder with 4 wheel power drum brakes:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883527875/

1. Materials:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883529389/

In this picture you will see the master cylinder I originally purchased from O'reilly Autoparts, but returned due to it being defective. The small allen head screw at the very end of the master cylinder was stripped and leaking. This was a Cardone rebuild. I then purchased a Fenco rebuilt cylinder that did not have this screw, and was in fine shape.

A. Master Cylinder Autozone M-1328
B. 2, 1/4 inch brake lines. These have ends that are 7/16-24. SAE Inverted Flare. (NAPA). I used one 30 and one 20 inch. You may use any length that you desire.
C. 9/16-18 Male to 7/16-24 female adapter Carquest (part number unknown) (Not Pipe Thread!)
D. 1/2-20 male to 7/16-24 female adapter (Not Pipe Thread!) NAPA
E. 7/16-24 male plug. NAPA (Not Pipe Thread!)
F. Female 7/16-24 to female 7/16-24 "barrel" connector. (Not Pipe Thread!) Carquest
G. Dot 3 brake fluid.

I didn't exactly do this in these steps, due to my bad new master cylinder, but this is how I would do it if I did it again:

2. Procedure:

1. Remove existing master cylinder. Look at the hole where your brake push rod enters the master cylinder. If there is a hole that is over an inch long, then it is the deep push rod. If it is just a divot, then it is the shallow push rod.
2. Remove the brake line at the distribution block that goes to the rear brakes, and the line that goes to the original master cylinder. Soak these connections in PB Blaster several days before you attempt to remove.
3. Insert the "plug" into the distribution block where the original rear brake line connected.
4. Insert one new brake line into the distribution block where the original master cylinder brake line connected.
5. Using the barrel connector, connect the other new brake line to the existing brake line going to the rear brakes.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883531871/
6. Loosely install the new master cylinder in position. Check to see the pushrod fits correctly. I didn't have to make any adjustment to my push rod.
7. Bend the new brake lines to your liking. I just did it by hand, because I don't own a tubing bender. Take your time. The line going to the rear brakes connects to the front output of the master, and the line going to the distribution block goes to the rear port of the master. Your front brakes should always connect to the port that is nearest to your brake pedal.
8. Once your lines are bent to your liking, remove the master cylinder and bench bleed it. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT. Even though I thought I bench bled it thoroughly, I still had air that I had to deal with.
9. Reinstall the master cylinder, and install the correct adapters needed to connect the brake lines. Have a helper depress the brake pedal then tighten the connections at the master cylinder. RESIST the temptation to jump in the car and "test" the brakes. If you do, you'll draw air into the master and have a fun time bleeding the system.
10. Take your vacuum bleeder and throw it in the trash. Call your wife to come out and help you. It worked a million times better. Bleed your brakes from rear right, to rear left, to front right, to front left. Make sure you don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder.
11. Test for brake pedal firmness, and go for a slow test drive. If you're like me, you'll realize that you STILL have air in your system, and will have to bleed again tomorrow.


Completed conversion: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8293453@N08/4883530859/

Again, your result may vary. I enjoyed this project, and feel better about taking my wife and daughter out for a drive now.

As you may have noticed, not one single store in my area had ALL the parts that I needed. You will probably have to shop around. Don't hesitate to ask me if you have any questions. I am by NO MEANS an expert, but even a blind squirrel gets a nut every now and then.

Thanks for reading,

Good luck!
Matt K.