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Old 09-20-2021, 09:26 PM
nUcLeArEnVoY's Avatar
nUcLeArEnVoY nUcLeArEnVoY is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2021
Location: Homestead, FL
Posts: 313
Unhappy

Quote:
Originally Posted by bsblguy View Post
Engine is stock with 85k miles on it when I got the car. I replaced the head gaskets as I suspected compression getting into water jackets. I am using handheld to adjust specs. I do not have a laptop.
Today I pulled stat and checked. It did not open so bought another and checked before putting in. It opened fine. Test drove and still ran hot. Removed water pump and ran water thru block to check for blockage. Water flowed thru block, heads and out thru stat housing very well. Replaced the Flow Cooler water pump that I had on it with a conventional cast impeller water pump. Test drove and it is much better. So much for $135 Flow Cooler water pumps. Should be called Flow Hotter.
Still runs a little warmer than the '76 TA I unfortunately just sold.
The hyperspark Dist. is computer controlled. No vac adv. I did have it set for 36 total adv. but lowered it to see if that was cause of heating issue. Right now target AFR is idle 14.5, cruise 13.8, wot 13.0. Car runs very well but not sure what AFR should be set to. And should I set total timing back to 36.
I'm getting ready to install a FlowKooler 11-bolt.

Hopefully I'll have better luck. I've done a lot of research and the worst case scenarios I've generally seen with it are that people see no difference in temps. My old water pump was a stamped impeller A-1 Cardone unit and the clearance was friggin' .200"!! So I know when I put on the flowkooler, ill see SOME change lol

Glad your problem has improved!

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