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| THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#11
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Quote:
For a pure drag car, I think a centrifugal would be a better choice. My goal with this project was to get a package that could be used on the street, fit under the hood, and make decent power even for a guy with unported cast iron smog heads and low compression. With this example, if you keep a sensible redline of 5500 RPM (or lower) you make all the power with cylinder pressure-not by revving it. This is a lot easier on a stock block, and you can get respectable HP numbers and still get by with less than a full aftermarket block. Not trying to say a forged bottom end and an aftermarket block aren’t an advantage- of course they are, but with modest boost, a sensible redline and the tight engine management that comes with sequential EFI, you can do a lot. Here is a graph from Richard Holdner who probably dyno tests more blower motors than almost anybody, comparing boost curves from a twin screw (in this case a Kenne Bell) with a Vortec centrifugal. Notice how flat the twin screw boost curve is across the range, and how little boost the centrifugal is making under 4000 RPM.
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1964 Catalina 2+2 4sp, 421 Tri-power 1965 GTO, Roadster Shop chassis, 461, Old Faithful cam, KRE heads 305 CFM, Holley EFI, DIS ignition. 1969 GTO 467, Edelbrock 325 CFM, Terminator EFI 1969 Firebird Convertible |
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