[JSSuper455]

I am rather new to this forum community. I have owned Pontiac Trans Am's and that is really how I got into Pontiacs as I've allways been, always will be a old school Mopar guy. Anyhow I have always loved the '70 GTO's, especially "the Judge" models, however these are rather expensive for me at this point and I would not be thinking about a daily driver out of one.

I have since found the LeMans cars and I really like the looks of the '71-72 models, its that front end.

Anyhow I have a 93 Mustang LX 5.0 that I've been using as my daily driver for over 3 years now and I'm a little tired of it, plus I now have a family and I feel that with the mods I've done its too fast and I think its only a matter of time till I get into trouble. The kind of trouble I really don't need.

Now I've been looking into these cars a little and have some questions.. Most seem to have the 350 2-bbl as does the cars I've got my eye on. They are A/C cars and both appear to be rather low mileage clean cars. Neither are a LeMans Sport or GT-37, they are just a LeMans, but they are a 2dr Hdtop. Save for the usual stuff (Excessive rust etc.) is there anything I should look out for? Would this car make for a good daily driver (summer time only of course). I like some power too, I still want to mash the "loud petal" once in a while. Will a 350-2 perform ok (I realize its going to be slower than the Mustang, but thats partly what I want) What ratings did these engines have? Would it be better to hold out for a sport model as this has bench seat and hubcaps. I kinda like the caps though, but I wouldn't ever frown on Rally II's.

Give some opinions on one of these for a daily driver, and do any of you use these for that? I'm kind of a Noob to this car really and info is sort of hard to find for these cars because everyone is GTO this and GTO that....

One last question, do the fender skirts come off easy and leave no apparent body/wheel well scars? One of the cars has them from the factory and I really don't care for that look on this car. I'd remove them if possible.

[JSSuper455]

I am rather new to this forum community. I have owned Pontiac Trans Am's and that is really how I got into Pontiacs as I've allways been, always will be a old school Mopar guy. Anyhow I have always loved the '70 GTO's, especially "the Judge" models, however these are rather expensive for me at this point and I would not be thinking about a daily driver out of one.

I have since found the LeMans cars and I really like the looks of the '71-72 models, its that front end.

Anyhow I have a 93 Mustang LX 5.0 that I've been using as my daily driver for over 3 years now and I'm a little tired of it, plus I now have a family and I feel that with the mods I've done its too fast and I think its only a matter of time till I get into trouble. The kind of trouble I really don't need.

Now I've been looking into these cars a little and have some questions.. Most seem to have the 350 2-bbl as does the cars I've got my eye on. They are A/C cars and both appear to be rather low mileage clean cars. Neither are a LeMans Sport or GT-37, they are just a LeMans, but they are a 2dr Hdtop. Save for the usual stuff (Excessive rust etc.) is there anything I should look out for? Would this car make for a good daily driver (summer time only of course). I like some power too, I still want to mash the "loud petal" once in a while. Will a 350-2 perform ok (I realize its going to be slower than the Mustang, but thats partly what I want) What ratings did these engines have? Would it be better to hold out for a sport model as this has bench seat and hubcaps. I kinda like the caps though, but I wouldn't ever frown on Rally II's.

Give some opinions on one of these for a daily driver, and do any of you use these for that? I'm kind of a Noob to this car really and info is sort of hard to find for these cars because everyone is GTO this and GTO that....

One last question, do the fender skirts come off easy and leave no apparent body/wheel well scars? One of the cars has them from the factory and I really don't care for that look on this car. I'd remove them if possible.

[Jack Peters]

The 350 can be made to perform better by just geting a 4 bbl carb/manifold and duals. Doing a good tune up and adjust the timing will help also. IF, you want better performance try to find a 455 and T-400. You can get 400+ hp and gobs of torque with it. You may want to present this question in the street forum and see what others have to say and WELCOME!!!!!!!

I am partial to the '71/'72 cars as you can tell by the avatar. Remember that ANY Pontiac engine looks the same on the outside so if you want to go bigger, well......

The nice thing about the '70-'72 years that quarters, doors, fenders, back bumpers, tail lights, trunk lids all interchange. Front ends will to but need to change all if possible as side marker lights and nose pcs are different.

PHS is a place that you can pay $35 and get the complete history, options and other things about the car by sending them the vin.

You may want to go back through this forum by going to search at the top and type in '71 LeMans or '72 LeMans.

If you want to private e-mail that is okay, too.

Here is a great site for information about cid, heads, rear ends, cams, etc. http://wallaceracing.com

[AG]

It will make an excellent daily driver but you will not like the lack of power from the 350 2bbl. I have a 1972 LeMans Sport Conv. with the Endura nose that came with a 350 2bbl and it would bearly chirp the tires in 1st. I fixed that problem by building a nice 455 with year correct 7K3 heads ( so it looks like a stock 400 except for the 455HO Al intake) a Q-jet, RAIV cam,and RA exhaust manifolds. Has a TH350 and a 256 open rear that I will change to 3.55. The car really moves now with a nice sounding exhaust, mandrel bent 2.5" with Dynomax Super Turbos. The motor is actually a little overkill for the family car but I like the extra power. A mild 400 with a cam like the 068 or slightly larger will make plenty of power. The 350 with some better heads, 068 cam and a 4bbl and headers will be a big improvement over stock.

[PB]

They make great daily drivers. I've been driving them since I was old enough to drive(35 now). My dad bought a 72 lemans which I still have...endura nose, 350 2bbl. A 350 2 bbl will perform fine. Mine has been rebuilt and left stock. It didn't need any boring. I got it to run a lot better, and sounding better with dual exhaust with super turbo mufflers. It gets up and goes just fine. Not like a GTO mind you, but I believe the factory rating was like 175 to 200 HP if my memory serves me right.

I am in the process of restoring that car right now. I found another 72 lemans endura car that is a convertible. That car is now my daily driver car. It has a 455 in it though and is a lot of fun.

I would definately recommend them as daily drivers. Easy to do all kinds of mechanical work if need be. The fender skirts do come off and shouldn't be too bad of damage left, just depends on the care the car got.

Enjoy! and welcome, PB

[ra4jumb]

Hi I have a 71 GT-37 and I use it as a daily driver in the summer and go to cruise nights with it often. I love it and it has been a really fun car, I love the color(lucerne blue) and It sports a 455/4spd which makes it a blast to drive. I later bought a 71 lemans sport 400/4spd and will do that car some day possibly. I think they make great drivers, new carb intake and dual exhaust and they are not too bad with a 350, depending on gearing.

[78 GHOST]

I think any of these "old" cars can be reliable daily transportation.. given a few specific details are attended to. Below is my typical "to do" list for my vehicles:

First, anything daily driven should have disc front brakes. Not very uncommon, but remember that you're shopping cars in an era where 4 wheel drums were still standard equipment and front discs were mostly an option. With todays' better braked and lighter vehicles, front discs is the only way you'll have any piece of mind in traffic.

With any new orphan I adopt, I spend a lot of time, and energy ensuring the braking system is in absolute top condition. This usually includes a new Master Cylinder, thorough bleeding, and new rubber hoses at all 3 locations. Failures with brakes are not an option.

Next, I ensure that ALL belts and hoses, including heater hoses are new.

All fuel filters are replaced.

All bulbs are checked and replaced as necessary.

All tires are in excellent condition or new.

Wipers operate properly and blades are new.

Engines receive compression tests, new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Oil change and filter. I save a lot of hassle chasing erratic engine behavior by simply replacing ALL of the vacuum lines on the engine. I usually prefer converting points to HEI style systems for bullet-proof reliability. Points are adequate if you don't mind the periodic adjustments. Engine coolant is flushed out and replaced with new 50/50 antifreeze/distilled water. If there's ANY signs of corrosion in the radiator, it get's replaced. All A/C condensor and radiator cooling fins get straightened and cleaned.

The Trans gets a complete flush, new screen and fluid.

If the U-Joints look crusty, it's time to practice your U-joint replacement skills. I don't feel it's practical to depend upon U-joints that may have been last lubed in 1970.

The differential gets checked and topped off with gear oil.

I know this sounds like overkill and maybe a bit daunting, but on all 3 of my vehicles I've discovered the worst abuse they suffered was neglect. The only way around this is a bunch of elbow grease and a few $.

I'd like to mention that I practice what I preach and my newest vehicle is 24 years old. I DO carry AAA and a credit card with me at all times, but fortunately have yet to require their usage in over 6 years of owning "old" cars.

[ra4jumb]

I agree as well that you must prepare the car for modern driving. Most of my problems have been related to electrical neglect and corosion. If the car has erratic lighting or dim bulbs check grounds and wiring and repair/replace as neccesary. If a harness has been butchered then replace it, I have almost lost a car due to saying well even though it looks awful it works. I was not singing the same tune as the smoke started coming out from under the hood. so always check the wiring and lighting as it is a safety item as well.

[Scarebird]

Nobody in their right mind at GM thought 35 years ago that these cars would still be grinding around in the numbers they are now. They were a pinnacle of automotive engineering; neither Ford nor Mopar had anything even close to the ruggedness the 64-72 "A" bodys have shown, nor their versatility and style.

But nothing lasts forever. My 71 Sport has a myriad of issues, from sloppy seat track locking, to simple electrical wire fatigue. My friend's 72 GP had to have a new engine harness, as the copper was corroded inside the wires. This car was stored outdoors under a carport. Items like rear axle bearings, front lower control arms and door hinges will wear out. Be prepared to fix these and many other things in time.

[Thumpin455_GTO]

My family cars have been a 72 GTO, a 70 GTO, and a78 Bonneville. I still daily drive the 70 GTO with a 455 Th400 3.42 12 bolt. It has alot of wiring issues and I have been completely through the suspension front and rear, all new brakes. It was a race car for a long time,has low miles but is rough due to a previous owner leaving it outside after "preping" for paint.

I recomend 68-72 A body's to anyone who wants an old car that has the fortitude to keep running. For years I couldnt buy them because they ran so well with the 350 2V, nobody wanted to sell them.

If you arent able to repair them now on your own, then you better learn. Its better in that you dont pay someone else, you know what broke when you hear it and you know where to start looking, and you have the satisfaction and pride in re/building it yourself.

[JSSuper455]

Thank you all for the information. I am pretty good with cars, have a temperature controlled shop I built behind my house that I work in, I call it my toybox. The only thing I don't really have that I could use is a lift/pit, but city codes would not allow a pit, nor allow the shop to be tall enough for a decent lift in a residential zone.

Anyhow I've inquired about some of these cars and so far I'm not having luck, but as with any old "collector" car it takes time to find the car for me and get the price I want to pay. There are a couple more I will be calling on soon so I'll keep you guys posted.

I do have a couple of questions on these cars. What kind of gas requirement do these need, lead additive? or were these built with hardened seats from the factory? I know about earlier engines and later engines and lead/no-lead fuel, but these are right in that gray area. Also is there any difference in the '71 and '72 350's and other engines POWER wise? I know they switched to NET ratings right in here, but did they do further de-tuning between these two years?

[Thumpin455_GTO]

Dont pull heavy loads and you wont have a problem with valve seats going away. Heads after 75 had hardened seats,5C,6X so you dont have to worry about them either and they flow well.

ANy 350 will power it no problem, 400's and 455's will make alot more power for the sme money. I found that more torque down low and at the cruise rpm will give you better mileage if its geared correctly and isnt spinning 3000 rpm. If you can find a set of 2.73 or 3.08's and put them behind a 400 or 455 you can get decent mileage and still have power to move the car thru stoplights.

[PMDRACER]

My '71 is a daily driver. Used to have the original 350. Now runs a 462. See the sig for performance.

Sure, it only gets 8 MPG, and I have to run the good stuff, but who cares?

My license plate frame:

Screw the gas mileage
I'm having too much fun!

[quicksilver97ta]

Another vote for a great daily driver. My '70 has a 350 2bbl and it gets around 14 mpg. The A/C is nice and cold but drops my mpg slightly. I run mid-grade gas with no problems, stock timing, stock points ignition. The drum brakes are an issue but it doesn't see the highway alot. Just playing around when I bought it I could get some rubber off the 225/70's but now I have 265/60's and I dont try. Its peppy down low by todays standards.

[BAD10]

71 350 2 barrel is rated at 255 HP. I am pretty sure the 72 motor is the same, but the claimed HP is less due to the net rating. I had a 71 T-37 that I bought when I was 15, and actually used it to drive to California when I moved here at 20. It was a great car, sure wish I hadnt litterally given it away in 1992 due to money issues. The cars are easy to work on and durable. Mine had 4 wheel drums, which always worked poorly no matter what I did. I learned just how bad they were when I discovered there was no way they could handle the hils here in San Diego. Definately upgrade to at least front disc if the car you buy doesant have them already. I would also amke sure the coolant system is top notch, and possibly upgrade to a higher capacity radiator. These cars seem to run too hot for my tastes, if left stock. I am also looking for a 71 lemans Sport, but in a convertable. Now that I have the money to build one the way I have always wanted...........