[Larry 67]

What brand of oil do you use & why. Some say oil is oil, but like filters all are not equal...what is the better oil to protect your $$, and sweat & blood you put into your engine?

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Cruise On!!!

[Larry 67]

What brand of oil do you use & why. Some say oil is oil, but like filters all are not equal...what is the better oil to protect your $$, and sweat & blood you put into your engine?

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Cruise On!!!

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Synthetics, Mobil One or Synergyn. http://PontiacPower.cc
NOS "is" Power!!

[T Hutchinson]

Mobil 1 synthetic. Price is right and noticeable difference in performance. Some extra leakage can be an issue without quality gasket seal. For conventional oil, Quakerstate has the greatest film strength per industry tests. To test film strength metal is coated with oil and a ball bearing under hydraulic pressure behind it is rolled across the surface. Pressure is increased untill the ball bearing breaks through the film.

Todd

[Lee]

There is less difference between the brands than ever before.

You have a base stock oil that is combined with various additives. There are only a few companies that make the base oils (very few of which are the actual "brand" on the bottle). There are also only a few companies that make the additives.

Oil "brands" typically formulate their oils a'la carte - a base oil from one company, some VII (viscosity index improver) from one additive co., some PPD (pour point depressant - cold weather performance) from another, and some dispersants/detergents from another.

Everything is tested at multiple levels, and virtually all oil on the market is good. When there is a problem, it is typically the result of a problem with one of the additives. There are some additives that have had negative results when mixed with other additives. If you stick with one brand, you won't have problems.

[Colorado Bill]

I used Castrol synthetic when it first came out, in a slant-six Duster. It made the temp gauge run noticeably lower in the summer, but I switched back to regular oil as leaks got worse. I don't think the oil caused the leaks--it leaked as much with regular oil.
I don't use synthetic in my Pontiac. It has a Crane Cam, and I asked one of their tech operators about synthetics in the early '90s. He said they don't recommend them because they've seen accelerated wear over conventional oils. That doesn't fit with most of what I've heard about synthetics. The cam instructions recommend PA crude oils, so maybe Crane owns some oil rigs.

[IL68GTO]

I'm about 350 miles into my 400's break in period running Quakerstate 10/30 with no problems. I used a quart the first 80 miles, but now it's holding fine now. I just wish I had used a better rear main seal than the rope as I have a very faint drip.

[MoJo]

Dude,
I used Mobile One several years ago when It first made the debut and the motor started leaking. Rear main, oil pan , valve covers ... Is this still a problem today with Synthetics or was this just a coincidence.
The problem seemed to vanish when I went back to Castrol Crude. BTW it was in a 350 Chev.
Joe

[ghaines]

I ALWAYS USED MANUFACTURE RECOMMENDED OIL VISCOSITIES. CHANGE OIL AND FILTER 3000-4000
MILES. YEARS AGO, I ALWAYS ADDED WYNN'S FRICTION PROOFING TO EVERY CHANGE BECAUSE I DID MY ON LUBE,OIL & FILTERS. IF OILS HAVE THE NECESSARY SE SPECS THEY SHOULD BE FINE. IT SEEMS EACH MFG. HAS A MINIMUM REQUIREMENT. ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THE DEALERS USE? NEVER EVER HAD ENGINE PROBLEMS SINCE I'VE BEEN DRIVING. NEVER USED SYNTHETICS BUT YEARS BACK, SOME OF THOSE GRAFITE OILS DID LOTS OF ENGINES IN.

[Ken -Ace- Brewer]

Hey guys,
I like Torco oils! They have been one of the first racing oils back in the 50's. They make a quality conventional, and a blend, and a full syn. All have there pantented MPZ in it!
They also make high quality assembly lubes! I have tried this stuff on piston skirts, no scuffing whatsoever! Good stuff.
Go to there website and read! Very interesting stuff!
Be Cool, http://home.earthlink.net/~pontiac455/

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ACE-P.P.R.

[This message has been edited by Ken Brewer (edited 09-27-2000).]

[KS circutguy]

Mobil 1,in my daily driver colt and in my 412ci pontiac...Or amsoil if the price is right..I no longer use non-syn. oil except when breaking in motor then I use a bottle of crane breakin' and valvolean straight 30W..

Mobil 1 is the only thing GM recommends in the new Vette,and so does Chy..in the Viper..
And i think Ferrari does too..

?? If it causes leaks or wear why would the auto manufactures recommend it..
After lots of testing and after a tear down inspection of many motors using petro. based and syn.I am a believer in Synthetic oils..

NO COKING.....Far more stable,and wear resistant..No comparision..But some of you here believe Eagle rods are made with bottle caps..So Its no suprise that you believe the crap about Synthetic oils...

Maybe Karl can tell ya the straight scoop on oil..

You will also see an increase in gas mileage and lower et's...And I use amsoil gear lube and trany fluid too...
And no leaks or wear.... [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] later,Steve.

[This message has been edited by KS circutguy (edited 11-25-2000).]

[llucas]

the leak problem is due mainly to the fact that one synthetic base stock will shrink seals and another will expand them, so the blend must be just right or you will have seal problems.

[GregV]

I was always sold on Pennzoil. It claims to non parafin based/low ash content(when burned).

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[email protected]

[TinInjun]

George:
Mobil told everyone that it was because of the lead in the fuel, and then they paid off all the damage claims so that it would stay hush hush. Having seen the damage first hand, I can tell you it wasn't because of the lead.
Lead doesn't cause major cylinder damage. The Mobil AV1 oil caused severe scoring and accellerated wear of the cylinder bores. It just could not lubricate the cylinder walls, why, I have no idea.
Just goes to show, if you have enough money, you can keep anything quiet.

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"Run wild with an Indian, not with the crowd in a Chevy"
Check out my restoration at http://members.aol.com/jetmech15/gto

[Guy Mazza]

As Ace said, Torco makes some good products. I also use Kendall GT-1 in race engines. (I change oil after EVERY race!)
Later, Guy

[UnchainedGTO]

Larry,
KS is correct in is reply to you. I have a pretty good report on the properties of Synthetic oil and crude base products that I would be happy to share if you are interested. Most companies who produce synthetics are all too happy to compare with crude oils, because synthetics are advanced without viscosity improvers which break down due to heat and contamination. Most synthetics do not contain viscosity improvers so this is not a problem for them.
I have been trying to find an unbiased report comparing synthetics. I have recently broken down two motors with equal milage and abuse that ran synthetic oil, and both were clean inside with no buildup of any kind top side. One did have some residue in the pan. I would like to see a comparison between Amsoil and Mobile 1 someday and may conduct my own. In the mean time both of these oils are great products and very much worth the extra money in my opinion.

Unchained

[Nickv]

Castrol GTX 10-40 in my Pontiacs.

[mike nixon]

if not using synthetics i prefer shell rotella.
in regards to the leakage question above; synthetics will leak past smaller gaps than conventional oils. at least this was what a field rep told us. he didn't recommend them in an engine that had alot of miles on it with the conventional oils.
as for racing apps i agree 100% with the dude. synthetics equal less friction.less friction = speed. mike

[RPM]

Does anyone know of documented cases of automotive engine failures resulting from the use of Mobil 1 oil or any other synthetic motor oil?

[PONTIAC DUDE]

Here ya go, Have this one saved. http://www.rconcepts.com/beard/dragn...g/oilinfo.html