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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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The trick is to find the center point of the rotating mass. On mine, I had to pretty much guesstimate just by looking. I actually got it real close...it would sit still in horizontal positions, but when turned on its side, it tended to roll over upside-down. So it was just a little top-heavy. I remedied this by putting the leaf springs on it and it pretty much balanced it so that itd stay still in any position. Of course, I still used lock pins to hold it while working on it. However, if you make one thats adjustable, you could set it at different heights until it was balanced. I made mine solely for a first generation F-body, so it wasnt adjustable.
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A friend will help you move...a GOOD friend will help you move a body. |
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#2
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Why would you make one with 500 in material when i bought one new for 7bills.when you are done you can probably sell it for 6 bills.no way i would put my car on one made of engine stands.i think the owner Steve carrell of auto twirler would sell you all the metal cut out and ready to weld for 450.00 or so.his units are awsome .im doing a frame off now on my 70 gp and painted the frame today.here is a link to autotwirler and a link to my frame off
http://www.autotwirler.com/ http://autos.ph.groups.yahoo.com/gro.../a2fc?b=17&m=s |
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#3
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That cost included the 110 volt linear actuators. I have since sold it for $1000.00 so it was no big deal on the cost. Plus it gave me practice welding. |
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#4
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I rest my Case Bob Slusser |
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#5
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Really it doesn't matter to me, I just posted the photo if someone wanted to copy the design. It worked great for me.
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