[fattie]

Originally Posted by mike nixon

if the rear main's not leaking don't fool with it unless you want to pull the engine. the only current seal worth installing is the bop unit that's a lip type. the rope style went to hell when they took the asbestos out of them. i've seen new one's leak worse than the originals since the change.

the cylinder you mention is the coil.

your list is a good idea for an initial going over on the car. add a pcv valve to it.

as a peice of advice, use top shelf standard products and autolight plugs for the tune up. the cheap points sold today are junk. put good parts in her and she'll treat you well.

buy a dwell meter for adjusting the points, it'll save agrivation in the long run.

buy either the oem manuals or a mitchel pro-series for it.they have better info than the chiltons.

i'd service the trans while i was there also.

mike

alright if it aint broke yet i wont fix it. why does this car have a coil and a distributor ? as for a pcv valve. those go in the valve cover , and there isnt one in my car. i belive my car is non egr ??? where are the points located and where would you reccommend i buy parts through ? ames ? ive heard horror storries of people servicing there transmissions and then they sh*t the bed. and it shifts pretty good right now.

[Stuart]

Originally Posted by fattie

alright if it aint broke yet i wont fix it. why does this car have a coil and a distributor ? as for a pcv valve. those go in the valve cover , and there isnt one in my car. i belive my car is non egr ??? where are the points located and where would you reccommend i buy parts through ? ames ? ive heard horror storries of people servicing there transmissions and then they sh*t the bed. and it shifts pretty good right now.

As I mentioned in my earlier post, the ignition points are inside the distributor cap. You loosen two screws to remove the cap, then there are two more screws in the rotor, and then underneath that is the points. They look like this:



Here are a couple online articles about replacing and adjusting GM ignition points. They're pretty much the same for all GM cars up till the early 1970s.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl517f.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/gener.../aa052502a.htm

Your car has a coil and distributor, well, because that's how ignitions worked on cars back then before fuel injection and computers and all that. The second link above has a short explanation of how the whole system works.

Your car is too old to have an EGR system, but it should have a PCV valve. There should be a hose sticking out of the side of the air cleaner, which is connected to the PCV valve, which plugs into a hole in the top of the passenger side valve cover. I suppose someone could have taken it off at some point and plugged the hole in the valve cover, but without seening the car in person it's hard to say.

As Mike said below you should look for "Standard-Blue Streak" brand ignition parts, in my experience they're generally the best quality. A good parts store like a NAPA should have them, the chain stores tend to sell cheap offshore parts in blister packs that I wouldn't trust. You can also get Delco factory replacement parts, but to tell the truth I'm not so sure about the quality of them anymore...maybe someone else can say if they're still as good as they used to be or not.

Again, find yourself a decent repair manual or tuneup guide and do some reading - they're not that hard to find. I was at a swap meet this morning and saw lots of people selling original equipment manuals, Motors manuals, and Mitchell manuals for $20 or less.