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#1
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I just installed my valance panel a couple of weeks ago. I do not have the inner fenderwells installed.
I installed the braces exactly as gto4evr has his. Kinda hard to picture what the problem is based on your description. Do you have the core support adjusted properly? Also, the little brace shown in the photo above will help pull the lower part of the fender in. How about the valance, itself? Is it straight? Twisted? It does take a lot of twisting, pulling and pushing to get it all lined up.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
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#2
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This what I am dealing with. The area that butts to the nose if I pull on it looks great (almost perfect) but I cant keep it there....
My valance is unfortunally the crappy fiberglass one, don't know if the whole can take the strain I am pulling on fenders to keep them there. I amost want to make a brace to hold them (or am I missing something) Here are some pics, any advise will be great. I will be messing with this more today.
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Send it! It’s going home on a trailer. |
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#3
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There are alot of factors involved. First off, you can't really make a brace to put it where you want it because the outward bend of the fender is controlled by the width of the valence panel. As in, if you pull the fenders out to meet the nose, the valence may be too "short" to match up to the fenders. Your fender adjustment might be currently compensating for the rad support being shifted and not centered. As Greg was refering to. This is really involved getting the front to line up correctly and I had all original sheetmetal up there when I did mine. It may be the repop valence being too narrow. To do this right, you need the wheel wells installed as well as the hood. Your endura may be tweaked ever so slightly which spreads out the nose making the fenders want to be further out at the top which rolls the bottoms of them in when the valence is installed. That will be more easily noticeable with the hood in place and you can see if the gap is the same between the center point and the ends of the hood.
PATIENCE and your 1/2" socket is the key as you'll be tightening and loosening every bolt on that front clip to tweak it all into shape. The best move I did when I was getting ready for paint was to put the car all back together one last time for a test fit. Every piece I had was from original clean donors and I couldn't believe how bad it all went together initially. Took me 3 days of messing with it, moving the fenders, nose, hood, wheel wells and rad support back and forth before everything finally lined up to my satisfaction. Without doing that first I would have destroyed the paint on my panels if I'd have had to go through that again after paint. Only good news I can give you is I had that same exact condition you're picturing on my drivers side before all the adjustments. Part of my fix was moving the core support more towards the drivers side, even though the passenger side wasn't pushed out the equal distance. Those two small fender braces are adjustable to some extent, that's why one side is slotted, so it can push in a bit closer or pull out a bit further from the rad support. Good luck |
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