[JasonD]

Thanks Greg and Paul for the kind words.

[JasonD]

My clock wasn't working in the Judge, and I really didn't want to switch it over to quartz movement because then you lose that little "tick tock" motion of the second hand. So I tore the clock apart to see if I could do anything for it.

It turned out that the little "points" mechanism inside the clock had just stuck together after sitting for 30 years. Once I separated the points and put a little light oil on the clock mechanism, the clock started working perfectly.

I also tore down the rest of the gauges, cleaned and restored them, and bolted them all back into the dash assembly again.

The dash pad itself was thoroughly cleaned and given a light coat of dye to freshen it up, along with the rest of the dash assemblies like the glove box and the metal parts. The "Judge" emblem on the glove box door is especially stunning. It looks like it was made yesterday. It's in perfect original condition.

[brianberes]

Jason did your Sister also paint the black on the dash bezel? Also, my dash is in about the same shape as yours, so I would like to attempt the taping and spraying the silver paint. What type of tape did she use and what silver paint did she use?

Thanks and keep up the awesome work.
Brian

[JasonD]

Originally Posted by brianberes

Jason did your Sister also paint the black on the dash bezel? Also, my dash is in about the same shape as yours, so I would like to attempt the taping and spraying the silver paint. What type of tape did she use and what silver paint did she use?

Thanks and keep up the awesome work.
Brian

Brian,

The black plastic on our bezel was in perfect condition. It was just the chrome that had worn off the edges.

She used a combination of 3M Fine Line masking tape and regular 3M masking tape. The 3M Fine Line series is a flexible, skinny tape that leaves sharp edges and it good for very fine detail work. It's a very tedious task to do this on these bezels. I think she spent over 6 hours just masking to make it perfect.

We used DupliColor Instant Chrome spray enamel.

[brianberes]

Thanks Jason for the info. I know my woodgrain is fine and the black maybe too, but I do know the silver trimming is wearing out.

Appreciate you posting all your steps. It really helps us novice guys see what things look like before and what it should look like finished.
Brian

[Francois Raby]

check the pictures of the under body of my 1972 gto 455 ho built at the Pontiac MIchigan plant. in storage since 1976, driven for 4 winters in Canada. revere silver paint everywhere except the inner rocker panel and the first foot of the floor and about 2 feet of the transmission tunnel. the rest of the tunnel has overspray... i know it is not concour to do this but i think i will do my underbody the color of the car, should be great with the black frame. What do you think ?

[Francois Raby]

my car is a factory four speed. look at the hole for the shifter, was cut very fast...

[robz]

Originally Posted by Francois Raby

check the pictures of the under body of my 1972 gto 455 ho built at the Pontiac MIchigan plant. in storage since 1976, driven for 4 winters in Canada. revere silver paint everywhere except the inner rocker panel and the first foot of the floor and about 2 feet of the transmission tunnel. the rest of the tunnel has overspray... i know it is not concour to do this but i think i will do my underbody the color of the car, should be great with the black frame. What do you think ?

Francois, I'm impressed at the lack of rust after 4 winters (unless it wasn't in Quebec or it was washed after each ride outside during the Salt Season)...

Personally, I'd stick to factory std and not use any body colors underneath, as it will make the underside stick out too much, color-wise...Any pics of the rest of the car?

Where in Montreal are you?

Welcome aboard!

Robert

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

I wouldn't call that overspray Franc, it looks more like they shot a full coat or two on the underside ! Pretty wild

Its your baby, and you have photographic proof, but so long as you know and accept that it will "probably" decrease the top dollar value by painting the underside silver (to most prospects) - its all in your hands.

I think it would look good too.
But i wouldn't do it.
I wouldn't even try to put any overspray effect either.

[Francois Raby]

If i choose black paint for the underside, should I use 60 % gloss black for the floor and 30 % gloss for the top and front face of the cowl dash ?

Robz I'm in Laval... I will be glad to show you 1 of 310 gto 455 ho m-22, 3.55 posi, when it will be finished. right now the car is in restoration and dismantled. There was minimal rust on it: front and rear of hood, bottom of fenders , fender braces,two pin holes in trunk. The cowl dash, windshield frame, rockers, floor, right quarter, trunk lid, rear panel under the back window are rust free. There is very little rust on the driver's quarter, on the bottom lip back off the wheel and under the bumper corner. A miracle for a car in quebec. the car was very muddy because the first owner drove it in the field!Every parts need cleaning and restoration but it's all matching numbers, head, intake, block, manifold, carb, water pump, alternator, distributor, transmission, rear end, brake booster. I'm not sure about the starter and the master cylinder...

[robz]

Originally Posted by Francois Raby

If i choose black paint for the underside, should I use 60 % gloss black for the floor and 30 % gloss for the top and front face of the cowl dash ?

Robz I'm in Laval... I will be glad to show you 1 of 310 gto 455 ho m-22, 3.55 posi, when it will be finished. right now the car is in restoration and dismantled. There was minimal rust on it: front and rear of hood, bottom of fenders , fender braces,two pin holes in trunk. The cowl dash, windshield frame, rockers, floor, right quarter, trunk lid, rear panel under the back window are rust free. There is very little rust on the driver's quarter, on the bottom lip back off the wheel and under the bumper corner. A miracle for a car in quebec. the car was very muddy because the first owner drove it in the field!Every parts need cleaning and restoration but it's all matching numbers, head, intake, block, manifold, carb, water pump, alternator, distributor, transmission, rear end, brake booster. I'm not sure about the starter and the master cylinder...

As I said before, I'm impressed! The guy must have rinsed off the salt after each drive, as even 4 yrs in our winters (and Quebec salted roads with alot of PASSION) would make a few body parts on those cars non-existent today...Here's a pic of my 1st GTO from Quebec, back in 1980..After starting the body work, I decided to find another GTO and just transplanted the engine/interior and Hideaways as this one was too advanced in its cancer...

You have a nice car/combo...Hopefully you'll finish her soon...

Maybe we'll see each other if you go to the shows (Fridays in Laval (Cure Labelle), Wed at the Julep)...

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by Francois Raby

If i choose black paint for the underside, should I use 60 % gloss black for the floor and 30 % gloss for the top and front face of the cowl dash ?

Yes.
On the painted metal portion of the dash (at cowl), it was 15 or 20% with a "seude mix" additive.
But you could shoot it 30% too, if you wanted.
Not so many are using the seude mix.
And too, the flatter the gloss range the more it smudges-smears-stains.
Top guns use two stage and matte the clear to % gloss level.

Really Cool GTO you have.